DIY anamorphic lens

[morkys]

If any Canucks have advice on where I can go to buy the parts, I am game. Do I go online or are there local places in the Toronto area or elsewhere that have parts?

[Mark Techer]

There is a supplier on the 'net listed back on page 64(?), but last page (73) has a phone number and a contact name for the prisms in the US...

Mark

[morkys]

Ok, thanx Mark, I will check it out after reading up on the most recent developments. How far back should I read to get the newest background info on the latest regarding these prisms folks are ordering?

[Bud Bray]

Originally posted by morkys
...and you may just possibly gain a customer... that is if one day you will let me drop in with a case of beer to see your contraption in action! I am in Ajax. I travel pretty far for home theatre stuff if its worth it I want to setup a constant height deal with my Hitachi TX200 so I can view 2.35:1 at full height.

No problem. Progress is going slower than expected...painting the screen and working on the lens and setting up for calibration all the same time. Hope to have some shots this week.

Prism supplier info...
http://www.massillonplaque.com
Contact The Massillon Plaque Company
Thanks for visiting The Massillon Plaque Company online. Please feel free to use any of the following methods for answers to your questions, requesting product information, or reaching our Customer Service department.

Mailing Address
The Massillon Plaque Company
5757 Mayfair Road
P.O. Box 2539
North Canton, OH 44720

Phone: 330-494-4199 or 1-800-854-8404
Fax: 330-494-5037

Customer Service:
Suzanne Stoneman

And the price is a LOT less than posted since you're not getting engraving! But there is the duty!

Bud

[andy238]

Just a quickie...

I got my prisms yesterday (Friday). Talk about lightning shipment! I ordered them on Tuesday! I did notice that they ship from New Hampshire. That would explain it.

I'm going to play with them tonight.

Cheers!
Andy

[Mark Techer]

Originally posted by morkys
Ok, thanx Mark, I will check it out after reading up on the most recent developments. How far back should I read to get the newest background info on the latest regarding these prisms folks are ordering?

HERE is where it all changes for the better

And a quick word on clarity. Whilst I have dived back into the gamma table to correct the green blobs of my LCD, I didn't really check the other controls until last night. A friend comes over and wants to see the new lens, I load a SW film, go into the THX optimizer and wow, I can clearly see the drop shadow behind the THX logo.

This means that the setting I had brightness at for the water prims is now too high for the crystal prisms. This means that I can pull it down to give even better blacks

I guess I need to re-cal the entire unit...

Mark

[Bud Bray]

Hey guys, just came back upstairs to post. Tried the US prisms in front of my Optoma HD72. Did the 2 prism & the 4 prism...I find that the angles between the 4 set is smaller than the 2. The 2 set is almost 90 degrees offset, well at least in my case. Also the 4 prism set had a LOT of ghost images. I guess I have to play more with which sides to put together. Haven't taken any pics yet (still have to set up another account to post them on). Also, I just set them in front of the beam on the ceiling mounted pj which caused some image warping instead of being perpendicular to the beam, but i still have to construct the housing. Ya, if you don't seal the ends....BOY, you get projections all over!
Just my 2 cents....and the project continues....
Bud

[Mark Techer]

Originally posted by Bud Bray
Hey guys, just came back upstairs to post. Tried the US prisms in front of my Optoma HD72. Did the 2 prism & the 4 prism...I find that the angles between the 4 set is smaller than the 2. The 2 set is almost 90 degrees offset, well at least in my case.

I would suggest that this happens becasue the light is partialy stretched by the first prism in each pair, then the "stretched" light is further stretched by the second prism of each pair.

I am taking that you have made 10 degree wedges out of the two 5 degree wedges.

Some thing I am curious to try is to add some space between the two prisms - say if they are 5 degree, then add 5 degree of space between them. Basicaly they would still be joined at the apex...

Originally posted by Bud Bray
Also the 4 prism set had a LOT of ghost images. I guess I have to play more with which sides to put together. Haven't taken any pics yet (still have to set up another account to post them on). Also, I just set them in front of the beam on the ceiling mounted pj which caused some image warping instead of being perpendicular to the beam, but i still have to construct the housing. Ya, if you don't seal the ends....BOY, you get projections all over!
Just my 2 cents....and the project continues....
Bud

What did you seal the ends with? I have just used 2" duct tape, and it worked really well. I have also contructed a "shelf" that extends down from the projector mount, so initially I just placed the two prisms on the shelf, but I since built the case which holds everything in place, and I can simply remove the entire lens if need be...

I am also thinking about adding a small panel on the back to prevent the small side reflection I am still having...

Looking forward to seeing some shots...

Mark

[Bud Bray]

Originally posted by Mark Techer


I would suggest that this happens becasue the light is partialy stretched by the first prism in each pair, then the "stretched" light is further stretched by the second prism of each pair.

*So the solution would be.....

I am taking that you have made 10 degree wedges out of the two 5 degree wedges.

*Correct!

Some thing I am curious to try is to add some space between the two prisms - say if they are 5 degree, then add 5 degree of space between them. Basicaly they would still be joined at the apex...

*So far i've tried the 2 hypotenuses together & opposite, didn't notice a difference, should I have? And the prismasonic pic has the lenses with the HYP facing out. Have you found any better configurations?


What did you seal the ends with? I have just used 2" duct tape, and it worked really well.

*Couldn't find my duct tape so used plain masking tape....it worked. Plan to use bleck electrical tape for a good light block.


I have also contructed a "shelf" that extends down from the projector mount, so initially I just placed the two prisms on the shelf, but I since built the case which holds everything in place, and I can simply remove the entire lens if need be...

*Right now I have a ladder with a box on top & a board on top of that for a shelf...hense my angle problem but still workable for testing.

I am also thinking about adding a small panel on the back to prevent the small side reflection I am still having...

Looking forward to seeing some shots...

*Ya, me too!

Mark

[Bud Bray]

Oh, another thing Mark. You suggested curving my screen, ya that would be a good idea but i've already secured it to the wall most of the length so a curve is out, at least on this screen, i'll curve the next one. I have noticed the slight stretch at the sides but you REEEEALY have to look for it.
Also, the LBX mode on the HD72 cuts some of the bottom off when watching 16:9 in anamorph mode. I know, you're NOT supposed to watch them like that but thought i'd check it out.