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Old 26th November 2002, 10:11 PM   #111
Nox is offline Nox
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Hmm...no I hadn't.

Do they both need to be different... for example: one oil and the other water? Or can they be the same: oil + oil.
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Old 26th November 2002, 10:50 PM   #112
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David,

Yes, you do need two prisms to work and they must be of different difraction characteristics that work in balance to compress the image without breaking the light into its component parts. The large prism is water and the smaller one oil.
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Old 28th November 2002, 11:24 AM   #113
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Exactly!


You need to make two prisms with the peak-angles 24° for the oilprism and 30° for the waterprism. The peak-angle is the angle of the two paces of the prism.

And they then have to be mounted with specific angles relative to each other. This drawing describes what angles they are mounted relative to a vertical line. The oilprism should be mounted at an angle of 3,2° and the waterprism should be mounted at an angle of 31° relative to the vertical line.

Click the image to open in full size.
In this illustration the projector is table-mounted on the left side of the prisms and the light goes from left to right. For a ceiling mounted projector it should be upside-down.

This next picture shows a complete optial assembly for one of my first lenses. It has the oilprism and waterprism glued together at the right angles with some aluminium pieces. The whole thing is then inserted into the housing.

Click the image to open in full size.


Tor Arne
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Old 30th November 2002, 09:28 PM   #114
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I finished up the water prism yesterday. I have to say, it all works pretty good!

The prisms aren't exactly secured yet. I made a small wire frame to rest the two on in the correct angle just to see if they would work. And sure enough, they did.

There is a slight barrel distortion, and the image isn't as sharp as without them, but it is definately watchable and very film-like.

*

I thought you all might be interested in how I constructed it:

I based it all on the PVC tube mentioned here a couple pages back. I found a clear plastic box at a craft store and cut out a 30° and 24° angled triangle from it. I left the sides intact and only had to glue the glass areas on. Since only the glass is the glued part, that's the only areas that I need to worry about leaks, if any occur. After a week with the oil prism and almost two days with the water, both with no leaks, they seem to be sealed perfectly.

Construction of the prisms were not at all as hard as I thought they would be when I first started looking into it. I still need to make the housing, but it's nice to see them in action even though there is some reflecting on the ceiling and such...since they are just sitting there "naked" in front of my projector.

I didn't spend a whole lot of money on either of the prisms. This was to be a test for myself to see if it was worth the hassel to make good ones. Both together came to about $30 USD. It would have been about $15 or $20 but I had to buy more picture frames for the glass because I kept breaking them while trying to cut them. I finally got the technique down with the final cut, though . But in all, $30 beats the $1800 for the Panamorph.

*

All in all, it was a worth while expirence to make these. I'm looking forward to mounting them correctly for a finished product.

Thanks for everones input. I could never have done this without the information provided here.
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Old 2nd December 2002, 01:42 AM   #115
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Is picture frame glass the right glass to use? I thought that it would do exactally what your problem describes, giving you a blurry image. Museum or high end glass will give a much better picture. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Also, where did you find the square plastic tube? Also, what size did you buy to make this work? Thanks.

Craig Carrigan
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Old 2nd December 2002, 04:04 AM   #116
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I doubt picture frame glass is what should be used for these. I used it only because I wanted to see if they were worth the time to make good ones. And I proved to myself that they are.

They may be unfocused just a tad, but not enough to notice it at all when watching a movie. When I pull down the menu of my projector, that's when I can tell that it's out of focus just a little bit.

The prisms I made are both the exact same size. They are about 3.5" tall and wide. I have a long throw on my projector, so these are both big enough. These would not fit short throw projectors.

I didn't buy a tube. I bought a clear plastic box from a local craft store. It was most likely made to hold buttons or small things in it. I, of course, hacked it apart.
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Old 2nd December 2002, 12:12 PM   #117
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Thanks for the quick response. I wasn't aware that this was a mock up model to see if it would work.

Also, what is everyone else using to fill these containers? Do you just punch a couple of holes in the side? Do you put some pipe in there? What have you found that works the best? Thanks. I'm going to stop by some shops and look for a plastic box to start my second batch (first one leaked real bad). Also, where might I find mineral oil for this project? I have turpentine but I think I may want to go with something that won't explode and kill me

Craig
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Old 2nd December 2002, 07:28 PM   #118
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Hi, please check this link:

http://ww2.bepo.com/jochen/anamorph/index.htm
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Old 2nd December 2002, 07:34 PM   #119
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I just want to let you know that the idea and all calculations are from the beisammen.de user "theother". You can check the 59 pages thread here:

http://212.105.197.47/vbportal/forum...5&pagenumber=1

You can download the excel file here:

http://212.105.197.47/vbportal/downl...download&cid=2

-> Prisma Berechnung "Theother"

Have fun
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Old 2nd December 2002, 07:49 PM   #120
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I bought everything, except for the plastic box and epoxy, at a supermarket:

A few cheap picture frames, distilled water, mineral oil, a protractor and a meat juice needle (I forget what it's called).

My grandfather is deeply into building radio controlled airplanes, so he had plenty of epoxy and tools. I cut the plastic on his ban saw where I was able angle the table to the desired degree. I then rubbed it carefully on a sheet of sandpaper to smooth out the edges and to be sure the angles were correct.

The glass fit extremely well and very flush against the plastic, so glueing it was an easy task without much concern for leaks.

I applied a bead of the two step epoxy with a small dowl (a little thicker than a toothpick) around the edge of the plastic. Then placed the glass on top of it and put a small but heavy object on it for pressure while it dried for an hour.

Filling it, I used the meat juice needle and only one hole which I had drilled into one plastic side before I started glueing. By the way, I suggest filling the water prism first as the minerial oil was a pain to clean out of the needle. I did end up with a small bubble in each of the prisms when glueing the hole cap on it. No bother, each bubble is very small and is completely out of the way when I'm usuing the prisms.

All that's left is to make a housing to hold the prisms in place.
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