My Speakers!!! I Have Decided!!! Peerless All The Way!!!

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A while back I was looking into making some speakers.. I was asking for help, I got some good suggestions... and some unwanted suggestions (not bad, I just didn't like it :)) I have decided.. Peerless woofer, Peerless tweeter 2 way speakers... Why?? Cos I can get them for as cheap (actually cheaper) than the ReSponse drivers.... The problem is... wHaT sIzE dO i MaKe ThE sTuPiD bOx!?!?!?

The woofer is the Peerless CSX217H-217 WR33 102 SD 4L hmm... also go by the number 850136.. lol

Anyway, what size box?? WinISD says one thing with a certain tuned port, but that doesn't match what peerless specs say... If I change it in WinISD then there is a bump in the frequency... what do I do?? :p please help!!!
 
WIN ISD is more reliable
than the manufacturer
Manufacturers do anything :D
say anything to sell :D

I say go by WIN ISD and do not bother too much,

We can help you tune it later


/halo - only builds ;) CLOSED, SEALED BOXES ;)
cause they sound good without Tuning

(and certainly better than a MIS-tuned BAS-reflex)
halo - knows what he is doing - he makes no mistakes
like a bassreflex NOT tuned in
 
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Joined 2001
Can't go wrong with Peerless. Personally, I prefer the 10" in the CSX line, because it has a large excursion-9 mm-plus it goes all the way to 2,000 Hz. It is an improved version of the CCC 10" subwoofer which at one time was one of the best subs you could buy. But the 8" is also good.

Both have a symmetrical magnetic system, which will enable you to port the box without the bizarre phenomenon of "suck-out" occurring. What this is is that when the speaker approaches the box tuning frequency, it travels from it's middle all the way to the end of it's travel and tries to move back and forth from that point. It cannot, of course, so it clips half the music waveform right there.

The Peerless CSX line has a ring in the magnetic system that prevents this. It is called a "shorting ring" or "Faraday ring". This is an excellent thing for a speaker to have, and Peerless puts it into it's reasonably-priced CSX line. Good for them.
 
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Joined 2001
As for WinISD, I will say that for an easy and convenient program to give you a quick idea of what low frequency response will look like, it is excellent. It's Optimum Box Values? Not excellent. But there is nothing preventing you from deciding what size box you want and working from there.

By the way, did you have a size box in mind, or a low frequency cutoff that you want to reach?
 
kelticwizard said:
By the way, did you have a size box in mind, or a low frequency cutoff that you want to reach?

I was actually thinking of making 2 different sized boxes.. :rolleyes: and swapping the drivers over depending on what I was doing.. :) lol... I wanted smaller boxes to take to friends houses and stuff, but still good deep bass for at home... As I can't afford 2 sets of speakers I was just thinking about it. not seriously... I would however like smallish, loudish, bassish boxes.. lol something like 20-40 litres is all I really want.. If I want better bass I will experiment with a 6th order bandpass.. :) I was messing around with winISD today, and came up with a design using a cheap 8inch woofer that went all the way down to about 15Hz at 0dB.. only prob was the box was 100litres... and it didn't do much about 35Hz.. :) lol
 
BTW, The Peerless drivers are "on their way" and , they are costing less than the drivers I was originally going to get from Jaycar!!! :bigeyes: :bigeyes: :bigeyes:

The tweeter is THIS ONE
The woofer is THIS ONE

I was planning on bi-amping... how much power should each amp be?? I don't want an overkill, but I don't want to kill the tweeter by clipping... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I"M SO HAPPY!!! I HAVE NO MONEY NOW!!

Also, while I am happy... and posting.. :) How should I finish off the boxes? This is for a school project, so I have at my disposal many usefull tools.. :) well, I hope I am allowed to make it for a school project.. I BETTER BE!!! I JUST SPENT ALL MY (and some of dads) MONEY ON SPEAKERS!!! but they were 57% cheaper than if I bought them from Altronics here in Australia... I am very pleased about that.. :)
 
I'll just put my tuppence in on the biamping bit, but feel free to ignore it.......

I'd put about a 150-200W amp on the LF and about 40-50W on the HF. Are you building the amps yourself? If so, I'd go for a pair of bridged TDA7294s for the LF and an LM3886 for the HF - nice and easy to build and perfectly adequate performance for this kind of speaker.

More important is the crossover. The resonant frequency of the tweeter kind of forces you to cross over at about 2.5k. I'd prefer to go a bit lower with that LF unit 'cos it gets a bit lumpy above about 600Hz, but it shouldn't be too bad. I'd probably go for an active 24dB L-R - I think it's about the best trade off on rolloff rate and phase response for this sort of system.

Hope that helps.
 
Redeye said:


1. I'll just put my tuppence in on the biamping bit, but feel free to ignore it.......

2. I'd put about a 150-200W amp on the LF and about 40-50W on the HF. Are you building the amps yourself? If so, I'd go for a pair of bridged TDA7294s for the LF and an LM3886 for the HF - nice and easy to build and perfectly adequate performance for this kind of speaker.

3. More important is the crossover. The resonant frequency of the tweeter kind of forces you to cross over at about 2.5k. I'd prefer to go a bit lower with that LF unit 'cos it gets a bit lumpy above about 600Hz, but it shouldn't be too bad. I'd probably go for an active 24dB L-R - I think it's about the best trade off on rolloff rate and phase response for this sort of system.

4. Hope that helps.

First, sorry for adding numbers to your post.. :)

1. I listen to all suggestions, even people whos name is that of an energy drink I rather enjoy.

2. I was hoping to in the future built my own amps, but for now was hoping to get away with 2 amps I already have... both are about 60watts.. so, I'll try to avoid clipping.. :) I will look into your suggestion, thanx

3. 2.5 is the frequency suggested in a PDF data sheet I got frpm somewhere.... Whatever you say, I do.. O GREAT NAMED AFTER DRINK MAN!!!

4. Indeed it does.. :) thanx..
 
Hmm... so, I'll go with 60litres.. :) internal 80CM X 25CM X 30CM
But.... do I need to add the volume taken up be the woofer? the port? the tweeter? the ... umm... the..... WIRE!!! THE WIRE!! hmm.. :D :p Also, a bigger port is better, so, how big?? I know the bigger it is the longer it is.... (wait, that sounds.. hm.. wrong.. :)):xeye: Also, CAN I USE ADJUSTABLE PORTS, OR IS THAT A NO_NO!?!?!? Also, I can't find anything on the TDA7294s... plus I don't know where to get them.. :rolleyes: Can I use bridged LM3886s? I should be able to get 150watts from them, and they are available locally.. :)
 
I go back to school in a week, and I would really like to know what I am doing by then :p So, I make an impedance jig, and measure the impedence... right? :D Then I take those numbers, and put them into winISD and make teh box volume whatever is most suited.. then adjust the port lenght till it LOOKS right.. right? :) do I need to measure anything else?? I'll go read some of the speakerworkshop help section again (the one that comes with speaker workshop, downloaded) :) Thanx for all the help..
 
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