My Speakers!!! I Have Decided!!! Peerless All The Way!!!

SkinnyBoy · 15th January 2003, 03:49 AM

A while back I was looking into making some speakers.. I was asking for help, I got some good suggestions... and some unwanted suggestions (not bad, I just didn't like it

) I have decided.. Peerless woofer, Peerless tweeter 2 way speakers... Why?? Cos I can get them for as cheap (actually cheaper) than the ReSponse drivers.... The problem is... wHaT sIzE dO i MaKe ThE sTuPiD bOx!?!?!?

The woofer is the Peerless CSX217H-217 WR33 102 SD 4L hmm... also go by the number 850136.. lol

Anyway, what size box?? WinISD says one thing with a certain tuned port, but that doesn't match what peerless specs say... If I change it in WinISD then there is a bump in the frequency... what do I do?? :P please help!!!

halojoy · 15th January 2003, 04:13 AM

WIN ISD is more reliable
than the manufacturer
Manufacturers do anything

say anything to sell

I say go by WIN ISD and do not bother too much,

We can help you tune it later

/halo - only builds

CLOSED, SEALED BOXES

cause they sound good without Tuning

(and certainly better than a MIS-tuned BAS-reflex)
halo - knows what he is doing - he makes no mistakes
like a bassreflex NOT tuned in

kelticwizard · 15th January 2003, 04:48 AM

Can't go wrong with Peerless. Personally, I prefer the 10" in the CSX line, because it has a large excursion-9 mm-plus it goes all the way to 2,000 Hz. It is an improved version of the CCC 10" subwoofer which at one time was one of the best subs you could buy. But the 8" is also good.

Both have a symmetrical magnetic system, which will enable you to port the box without the bizarre phenomenon of "suck-out" occurring. What this is is that when the speaker approaches the box tuning frequency, it travels from it's middle all the way to the end of it's travel and tries to move back and forth from that point. It cannot, of course, so it clips half the music waveform right there.

The Peerless CSX line has a ring in the magnetic system that prevents this. It is called a "shorting ring" or "Faraday ring". This is an excellent thing for a speaker to have, and Peerless puts it into it's reasonably-priced CSX line. Good for them.

kelticwizard · 15th January 2003, 04:51 AM

As for WinISD, I will say that for an easy and convenient program to give you a quick idea of what low frequency response will look like, it is excellent. It's Optimum Box Values? Not excellent. But there is nothing preventing you from deciding what size box you want and working from there.

By the way, did you have a size box in mind, or a low frequency cutoff that you want to reach?

SkinnyBoy · 15th January 2003, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by kelticwizard
By the way, did you have a size box in mind, or a low frequency cutoff that you want to reach?

I was actually thinking of making 2 different sized boxes..

and swapping the drivers over depending on what I was doing..

lol... I wanted smaller boxes to take to friends houses and stuff, but still good deep bass for at home... As I can't afford 2 sets of speakers I was just thinking about it. not seriously... I would however like smallish, loudish, bassish boxes.. lol something like 20-40 litres is all I really want.. If I want better bass I will experiment with a 6th order bandpass..

I was messing around with winISD today, and came up with a design using a cheap 8inch woofer that went all the way down to about 15Hz at 0dB.. only prob was the box was 100litres... and it didn't do much about 35Hz..

lol

SkinnyBoy · 15th January 2003, 12:24 PM

BTW, The Peerless drivers are "on their way" and , they are costing less than the drivers I was originally going to get from Jaycar!!!

The tweeter is THIS ONE
The woofer is THIS ONE

I was planning on bi-amping... how much power should each amp be?? I don't want an overkill, but I don't want to kill the tweeter by clipping...

I"M SO HAPPY!!! I HAVE NO MONEY NOW!!

Also, while I am happy... and posting..

How should I finish off the boxes? This is for a school project, so I have at my disposal many usefull tools..

well, I hope I am allowed to make it for a school project.. I BETTER BE!!! I JUST SPENT ALL MY (and some of dads) MONEY ON SPEAKERS!!! but they were 57% cheaper than if I bought them from Altronics here in Australia... I am very pleased about that..

Redeye · 15th January 2003, 12:43 PM

I'll just put my tuppence in on the biamping bit, but feel free to ignore it.......

I'd put about a 150-200W amp on the LF and about 40-50W on the HF. Are you building the amps yourself? If so, I'd go for a pair of bridged TDA7294s for the LF and an LM3886 for the HF - nice and easy to build and perfectly adequate performance for this kind of speaker.

More important is the crossover. The resonant frequency of the tweeter kind of forces you to cross over at about 2.5k. I'd prefer to go a bit lower with that LF unit 'cos it gets a bit lumpy above about 600Hz, but it shouldn't be too bad. I'd probably go for an active 24dB L-R - I think it's about the best trade off on rolloff rate and phase response for this sort of system.

Hope that helps.

SkinnyBoy · 15th January 2003, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Redeye

1. I'll just put my tuppence in on the biamping bit, but feel free to ignore it.......

2. I'd put about a 150-200W amp on the LF and about 40-50W on the HF. Are you building the amps yourself? If so, I'd go for a pair of bridged TDA7294s for the LF and an LM3886 for the HF - nice and easy to build and perfectly adequate performance for this kind of speaker.

3. More important is the crossover. The resonant frequency of the tweeter kind of forces you to cross over at about 2.5k. I'd prefer to go a bit lower with that LF unit 'cos it gets a bit lumpy above about 600Hz, but it shouldn't be too bad. I'd probably go for an active 24dB L-R - I think it's about the best trade off on rolloff rate and phase response for this sort of system.

4. Hope that helps.

First, sorry for adding numbers to your post..

1. I listen to all suggestions, even people whos name is that of an energy drink I rather enjoy.

2. I was hoping to in the future built my own amps, but for now was hoping to get away with 2 amps I already have... both are about 60watts.. so, I'll try to avoid clipping..

I will look into your suggestion, thanx

3. 2.5 is the frequency suggested in a PDF data sheet I got frpm somewhere.... Whatever you say, I do.. O GREAT NAMED AFTER DRINK MAN!!!

4. Indeed it does..

thanx..

SkinnyBoy · 15th January 2003, 11:23 PM

I have changed my mind.. I will make 60litre towers..

This will give better bass (well duh) but still take up the same space the original boxes would have..

FrankDIY · 16th January 2003, 12:40 AM

I always get good results with Peerless drivers but the manufacturer specs are really different than the one measured with speakerworkshop.

15th January 2003, 03:49 AM	#1
SkinnyBoy Banned Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Adelaide, Australia	My Speakers!!! I Have Decided!!! Peerless All The Way!!! A while back I was looking into making some speakers.. I was asking for help, I got some good suggestions... and some unwanted suggestions (not bad, I just didn't like it ) I have decided.. Peerless woofer, Peerless tweeter 2 way speakers... Why?? Cos I can get them for as cheap (actually cheaper) than the ReSponse drivers.... The problem is... wHaT sIzE dO i MaKe ThE sTuPiD bOx!?!?!? The woofer is the Peerless CSX217H-217 WR33 102 SD 4L hmm... also go by the number 850136.. lol Anyway, what size box?? WinISD says one thing with a certain tuned port, but that doesn't match what peerless specs say... If I change it in WinISD then there is a bump in the frequency... what do I do?? :P please help!!!

16th January 2003, 12:40 AM	#10
FrankDIY diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Montreal	I always get good results with Peerless drivers but the manufacturer specs are really different than the one measured with speakerworkshop. __________________ Imagination is more important than knowledge. knowledge is limited, imagination encircles the world. Albert Einstein FrankDIY's Audio Corner

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15th January 2003, 04:13 AM	#2
halojoy On Hiatus Join Date: Nov 2002	WIN ISD is more reliable than the manufacturer Manufacturers do anything say anything to sell I say go by WIN ISD and do not bother too much, We can help you tune it later /halo - only builds CLOSED, SEALED BOXES cause they sound good without Tuning (and certainly better than a MIS-tuned BAS-reflex) halo - knows what he is doing - he makes no mistakes like a bassreflex NOT tuned in

15th January 2003, 04:48 AM	#3
kelticwizard diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Connecticut, The Nutmeg State	Can't go wrong with Peerless. Personally, I prefer the 10" in the CSX line, because it has a large excursion-9 mm-plus it goes all the way to 2,000 Hz. It is an improved version of the CCC 10" subwoofer which at one time was one of the best subs you could buy. But the 8" is also good. Both have a symmetrical magnetic system, which will enable you to port the box without the bizarre phenomenon of "suck-out" occurring. What this is is that when the speaker approaches the box tuning frequency, it travels from it's middle all the way to the end of it's travel and tries to move back and forth from that point. It cannot, of course, so it clips half the music waveform right there. The Peerless CSX line has a ring in the magnetic system that prevents this. It is called a "shorting ring" or "Faraday ring". This is an excellent thing for a speaker to have, and Peerless puts it into it's reasonably-priced CSX line. Good for them.

15th January 2003, 04:51 AM	#4
kelticwizard diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Connecticut, The Nutmeg State	As for WinISD, I will say that for an easy and convenient program to give you a quick idea of what low frequency response will look like, it is excellent. It's Optimum Box Values? Not excellent. But there is nothing preventing you from deciding what size box you want and working from there. By the way, did you have a size box in mind, or a low frequency cutoff that you want to reach?

15th January 2003, 12:24 PM	#6
SkinnyBoy Banned Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Adelaide, Australia	BTW, The Peerless drivers are "on their way" and , they are costing less than the drivers I was originally going to get from Jaycar!!! The tweeter is THIS ONE The woofer is THIS ONE I was planning on bi-amping... how much power should each amp be?? I don't want an overkill, but I don't want to kill the tweeter by clipping... I"M SO HAPPY!!! I HAVE NO MONEY NOW!! Also, while I am happy... and posting.. How should I finish off the boxes? This is for a school project, so I have at my disposal many usefull tools.. well, I hope I am allowed to make it for a school project.. I BETTER BE!!! I JUST SPENT ALL MY (and some of dads) MONEY ON SPEAKERS!!! but they were 57% cheaper than if I bought them from Altronics here in Australia... I am very pleased about that..

15th January 2003, 12:43 PM	#7
Redeye diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: London	I'll just put my tuppence in on the biamping bit, but feel free to ignore it....... I'd put about a 150-200W amp on the LF and about 40-50W on the HF. Are you building the amps yourself? If so, I'd go for a pair of bridged TDA7294s for the LF and an LM3886 for the HF - nice and easy to build and perfectly adequate performance for this kind of speaker. More important is the crossover. The resonant frequency of the tweeter kind of forces you to cross over at about 2.5k. I'd prefer to go a bit lower with that LF unit 'cos it gets a bit lumpy above about 600Hz, but it shouldn't be too bad. I'd probably go for an active 24dB L-R - I think it's about the best trade off on rolloff rate and phase response for this sort of system. Hope that helps.

15th January 2003, 11:23 PM	#9
SkinnyBoy Banned Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Adelaide, Australia	I have changed my mind.. I will make 60litre towers.. This will give better bass (well duh) but still take up the same space the original boxes would have..

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