Hi,
one of my AE1s has gone kaput.
The mid/bass voice coil is rubbing, well more accurate to say, almost locked solid.
It must have overheated and on cooling became distorted.
Does anyone know of a replacement driver that fits the cornered rebate and is a good substitute for the T/S parameters of the original?
The last time I replaced a driver, Acoustic Energy took £75 off me for an exchange unit and that was about 12years ago. I don't even want to ask their price for one now.
one of my AE1s has gone kaput.
The mid/bass voice coil is rubbing, well more accurate to say, almost locked solid.
It must have overheated and on cooling became distorted.
Does anyone know of a replacement driver that fits the cornered rebate and is a good substitute for the T/S parameters of the original?
The last time I replaced a driver, Acoustic Energy took £75 off me for an exchange unit and that was about 12years ago. I don't even want to ask their price for one now.
Hi,
the AE1s are fitted with a 130mm pressed steel basket, aluminium cone and centre cap, rubber half roll surround, 134mm PCD mountings.
They have an aluminium voice coil former (it may be in one piece with the centre cap) about 30mm diam and supposedly 150W power handling through the passive crossover.
the AE1s are fitted with a 130mm pressed steel basket, aluminium cone and centre cap, rubber half roll surround, 134mm PCD mountings.
They have an aluminium voice coil former (it may be in one piece with the centre cap) about 30mm diam and supposedly 150W power handling through the passive crossover.
awww i feel your pain Andrew.Are they these ?
http://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/526/index.html
From what i know these have a cast metal chassis, foam surround .
edit: i see there were several versions, yours might be different.
Using something else will essentially mean you're ditching the original designs
, these are true little marvels.Auditioned them against my ae-509's , except for the low-end extension they were better in all other areas.
With kind regards,
Klaas
Yeah me too, have the ae-509's for about ten years now, still happy with them.
If the ones Pinkmouse is referring to aren't what you are looking for, you could have a look at Monacor. They might have something that fits and provide good build-quality for the money.
=> http://www.monacor.de
With kind regards,
Klaas
AndrewT said:
Hmmm...... extremely inaccurate comment.
The original AE1s are full range standmounters, and use a complex
crossover (5th ? order acoustic) at a relatively low crossover point.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Substituting an alternative bass driver is a non-starter.
Redesigning completely with the original cabinets and
tweeters is a possibility, i.e. new bass drivers and crossover.
/sreten.Hi Sreten,
yes, I realise that a poor match will ruin the speaker.
That's why I am looking for a good match of T/S parameters.
It's just possible someone has done this before.
What was inaccurate about the comment? Four speakers spread around the four quadrants and then removing one! Agh, don't bother with an answer.
yes, I realise that a poor match will ruin the speaker.
That's why I am looking for a good match of T/S parameters.
It's just possible someone has done this before.
What was inaccurate about the comment? Four speakers spread around the four quadrants and then removing one! Agh, don't bother with an answer.
AndrewT said:
Hi,
Sorry I misunderstood the comment, its about your use, not the
intended use of the louspeaker. Well the original AE1 has now
been reintroduced as the AE1 "classic" with allegedly indentical
drivers - so a replacement might not be too bad.
FWIW fitting another unit to a pair - giving you a spare AE driver
for one pair is the other option I'd consider, but the driver needs
to be relatively inefficient. Frame size is 135mm ?
/sreten.
Hi,
possibly a pair of these :
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk...id=62&osCsid=04bcf52bd6bb6ec6ab85f6699536eb89
may have to block one or both ports.
/sreten.
possibly a pair of these :
https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk...id=62&osCsid=04bcf52bd6bb6ec6ab85f6699536eb89
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
may have to block one or both ports.
/sreten.This is a very old thread, but rather than starting a new one.....
I have recently bought an early pair of ae1s and original cast speaker stands from ebay that were described as "refurbished" - ie they have had new foam surrounds fitted to the woofers. (I think these were s1 that were probably upgraded to series 2 in the early 90s as they have the later tweeters fitted). This work appears to have been carried out to a high standard, and i have to say that the speakers are in lovely condition overall. I'd say they have been very well looked after.
There is a problem with the bass driver on one of the speakers.
This only becomes apparent at higher volumes (and so was not detected when I collected them). There is an obvious scratching/distorted/clicking sort of noise, particularly on more bass heavy music where there is greater cone excursion.
The obvious thing to do would be to return the speakers for a refund. However I'd rather not as the seller lives 3 hours away and to be honest, they were an absolute steal. The original stands are worth more than I paid on their own.
I've tried to make the usual diagnostics; the cone appears to move freely by hand; the spider and voice coil adhesive joints are sound; the linkage wires aren't vibrating against the cone; I've rotated the driver around into different positions. The problem still persists and to me it does sound like the vc is rubbing!
I could almost live with the fault. They sound fantastic at lower levels. But occasionally I am going to want to crank them up.
Does anybody have any ideas? Any recommended uk based speaker repairers?
Thanks
I have recently bought an early pair of ae1s and original cast speaker stands from ebay that were described as "refurbished" - ie they have had new foam surrounds fitted to the woofers. (I think these were s1 that were probably upgraded to series 2 in the early 90s as they have the later tweeters fitted). This work appears to have been carried out to a high standard, and i have to say that the speakers are in lovely condition overall. I'd say they have been very well looked after.
There is a problem with the bass driver on one of the speakers.
This only becomes apparent at higher volumes (and so was not detected when I collected them). There is an obvious scratching/distorted/clicking sort of noise, particularly on more bass heavy music where there is greater cone excursion.
The obvious thing to do would be to return the speakers for a refund. However I'd rather not as the seller lives 3 hours away and to be honest, they were an absolute steal. The original stands are worth more than I paid on their own.
I've tried to make the usual diagnostics; the cone appears to move freely by hand; the spider and voice coil adhesive joints are sound; the linkage wires aren't vibrating against the cone; I've rotated the driver around into different positions. The problem still persists and to me it does sound like the vc is rubbing!
I could almost live with the fault. They sound fantastic at lower levels. But occasionally I am going to want to crank them up.
Does anybody have any ideas? Any recommended uk based speaker repairers?
Thanks
The first thing I would check is the crossover for dried out electrolytic capacitors. It could be one is breaking down at higher voltages and creating the distortion. The other more unfortunate problem would be if the voicecoil wire separated from the former due to overheating. It would sound OK at low volumes until the wire starts to buzz and rattle. This could only be fixed by replacing the driver. Sorry, I a from the states and have no knowledge of repair shops in the UK.
The voicecoil winding are glued to the former and to each other with a high temperature adhesive. It can fail and the wires can separate. They may not be touching the gap. When the coil accelerates, the windings can come apart like a slinky. I had a old school driver where this happened. Pressing the cone did not give scraping, but when I removed the cone and voicecoil, you could see where the winding were separated. It is unlikely the poly caps are bad, or that a resistor would fails in a manner that was intermittent with voltage. Not impossible however.
You could try to directly drive the woofer with you power amp. Remove it from the crossover first. If the driver is bad you will hear the same noise, If not, then the crossover or possibly crossover connection. Sometimes corrosion sets in on the connections. If it turns out to be the crossover, I would re-solder or re-crimp the connections before I replaced anything.