Was considering using plumber's putty to mount MTM drivers. At first, I was going to use some caulk strip from Parts Express, but I want to have a slightly more flexible material to enable the driver to mate very closely with the recessed flange. The putty should push flat yet hold a pretty good seal (hey, it keeps water out).
I suspect this will prevent me from having to apply excessive torque to the driver, possibly warping the tweeter housing.
I definitely do not want to use a liquid latex caulk or silicone, which will harden over time, making it a bear to pull the driver out.
Suggestions? Problems?
I suspect this will prevent me from having to apply excessive torque to the driver, possibly warping the tweeter housing.
I definitely do not want to use a liquid latex caulk or silicone, which will harden over time, making it a bear to pull the driver out.
Suggestions? Problems?
Rope caulk will suspend the driver away from the cabinet allowing for flange deformation and will often harden as the moisture will be drawn out by the exposed wood in the recess.
I work with a lot of sealants and caulks and the best gasket I have ever made was from silicone. That's tough for me to say in that there are usually other caulks that do a better job but in this case...
Lay the box on it's back and oil both the back of the flange and the recess in the box. Lay a bead in the recess by holding the gun above the surface and following around the hole. Place the driver in the box but do not fasten, simply apply enough pressure (weights) to begin forming the gasket. If the driver is heavy, this will happen on it's own. Leave overnight. Screw or bolt the next day once the gasket has set. Oiling of course allows you to remove the driver at any time as there is no bond, simply a silicone gasket that won't stick to a contaminated surface. Silicone remains pliable for more years than you will own the speakers. I have never had a problem with the gas-off of silicone as it's really nothing more than acetic acid (vinegar).
I work with a lot of sealants and caulks and the best gasket I have ever made was from silicone. That's tough for me to say in that there are usually other caulks that do a better job but in this case...
Lay the box on it's back and oil both the back of the flange and the recess in the box. Lay a bead in the recess by holding the gun above the surface and following around the hole. Place the driver in the box but do not fasten, simply apply enough pressure (weights) to begin forming the gasket. If the driver is heavy, this will happen on it's own. Leave overnight. Screw or bolt the next day once the gasket has set. Oiling of course allows you to remove the driver at any time as there is no bond, simply a silicone gasket that won't stick to a contaminated surface. Silicone remains pliable for more years than you will own the speakers. I have never had a problem with the gas-off of silicone as it's really nothing more than acetic acid (vinegar).
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