concrete board for enclosures?

alandarkdale · 29th March 2007, 06:46 AM

Yes, I've searched the forum but have been unable to find an answer.

Given the discussions of Baltic Birch vs. MDF vs. solid wood where would the concrete siding material fall?

Sure, I've been able to find enclosures that use cast concrete but what about using pieces of siding cut to appropriate lengths for the constant width walls of Hedlund style horns or the Nagaoka style cabinets?

One company, James Hardie, lists theirs as 5/16" thick and it is available in widths of 5.25', 6.25", 7.25", 8.25", 9.25" and 12". The weight is 2.3 lbs per sq. ft.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...hardiplank.php

Any thoughts or a pointer to a discussion I messed? It could even be doubled up with glue for interlocking joints, etc.

Dale

slhijb · 29th March 2007, 04:17 PM

On my current design, I'm using concrete "Hardi" board - smooth surface 1/2" thick, made & for wet environment, sandwiched in-between the 3/4" MDF exterior front baffle panel and the 3/4" baltic plywood interior front baffle panel. Using Liquid Nails to bond to the MDF & BP.

Reasons for use:
- Relatively easy to work with
- High mass
- High density
- Rigid
- I like using dissimilar type materials in speakers
- Strong & not brittle (will not crack or spall under loudspeaker type conditions) - Hurricane force resistant

Not done with the speakers, so can't discuss an end result.

Hope this helps.

Ed LaFontaine · 29th March 2007, 04:44 PM

Durock is another brand name. It is available in 1/4" thickness. Bob Brines uses cement board along with Armstrong #420 acoustic ceiling tiles to line his enclosures. I obtained both materials from Lowe's.

planet10 · 29th March 2007, 08:19 PM

Used in conjnction it can have some benefits, by itself it is not all that good a panel material.

dave

alandarkdale · 30th March 2007, 04:15 AM

In combination with...... ?

Waferwood ?

Thinner BB ?

Fir Plywood ?

MDF ?

Are any combinations worth the investment of extra effort over .75" 18mm 13 ply sheetgoods?

planet10 · 31st March 2007, 03:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by alandarkdale
Are any combinations worth the investment of extra effort over .75" 18mm 13 ply sheetgoods?

Personally i would never use it... it is counter to what i try to achieve in my boxes. To my mind adequate bracing is more effective.

dave

alandarkdale · 31st March 2007, 08:35 AM

'nuf said.

Thanks

29th March 2007, 06:46 AM	#1
alandarkdale diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kansas	concrete board for enclosures? Yes, I've searched the forum but have been unable to find an answer. Given the discussions of Baltic Birch vs. MDF vs. solid wood where would the concrete siding material fall? Sure, I've been able to find enclosures that use cast concrete but what about using pieces of siding cut to appropriate lengths for the constant width walls of Hedlund style horns or the Nagaoka style cabinets? One company, James Hardie, lists theirs as 5/16" thick and it is available in widths of 5.25', 6.25", 7.25", 8.25", 9.25" and 12". The weight is 2.3 lbs per sq. ft. http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...hardiplank.php Any thoughts or a pointer to a discussion I messed? It could even be doubled up with glue for interlocking joints, etc. Dale __________________ Tantum materium est et effingis. It's just stuff and you do stuff to it.

29th March 2007, 04:44 PM	#3
Ed LaFontaine ...truth seeker... diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: where the Appalachians rise from the Blue Grass	Durock is another brand name. It is available in 1/4" thickness. Bob Brines uses cement board along with Armstrong #420 acoustic ceiling tiles to line his enclosures. I obtained both materials from Lowe's. __________________ ...call me Ed...Special Ed... EnABL kit http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/119852-enabl-kit.html DCB1 parts http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-...ml#post2361098

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29th March 2007, 04:17 PM	#2
slhijb diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	On my current design, I'm using concrete "Hardi" board - smooth surface 1/2" thick, made & for wet environment, sandwiched in-between the 3/4" MDF exterior front baffle panel and the 3/4" baltic plywood interior front baffle panel. Using Liquid Nails to bond to the MDF & BP. Reasons for use: - Relatively easy to work with - High mass - High density - Rigid - I like using dissimilar type materials in speakers - Strong & not brittle (will not crack or spall under loudspeaker type conditions) - Hurricane force resistant Not done with the speakers, so can't discuss an end result. Hope this helps.

29th March 2007, 08:19 PM	#4
planet10 frugal-phile(tm) diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III Blog Entries: 5	Used in conjnction it can have some benefits, by itself it is not all that good a panel material. dave __________________ community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA

30th March 2007, 04:15 AM	#5
alandarkdale diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kansas	In combination with...... ? Waferwood ? Thinner BB ? Fir Plywood ? MDF ? Are any combinations worth the investment of extra effort over .75" 18mm 13 ply sheetgoods?

31st March 2007, 08:35 AM	#7
alandarkdale diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kansas	'nuf said. Thanks