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Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winnipeg, MB
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'm going to install the port tube that came with the kit this weekend. It's the CSS flared port - looks a lot like this:
I'm a little confused by the flanges at the back of the port. The flanges are 3/4" long - same as the wall material that I'm using. Should I cut the hole to the OD of the flange, or to the OD of the pipe, and then cut slots into the wood for the flanges to seat? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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I would just notch the wood around the ribs while allowing the port to still press fit into the box. You should also used a sealant like silicone to make sure there is no air leaks.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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The flanges are to apply spring tension so I think you should make a hole to fit around them and press it in like that... I would be carefull with silicone as paint will never grip well to any residue of silicone on the wood... maybe 'sicaflex' or just superglue would work better...
__________________
Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Hedland
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All I do is cut a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the flanges and push the port home. Stays in nicely.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: British Columbia ,Canada
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We use these ports when we do cabinets for Bob at CSS.
Best thing to do CUT off the fins period.If not you only have less than 3/16" of mounting area to pit the ports on. This is OK but not the best.We cut the fins off these when we have to use them and then just drill a 2" hole and the ports are a nice tight fit. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winnipeg, MB
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Thanks everyone. I cut a 2" hole and then cut slots for the fins. Everything fits well, but I don't think it was worth it. Next time I would cut the fins off for sure.
Thanks for all your advice! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Survey says: Least happiest city in Canada
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I know it's too late now, but...
How about running the ports inside-out? Installed from the inside of the cabinets, with the flared end inside the cab. You could run a round-over router bit around the inside of the tube after you glue it into the baffle if you wanted to maintain a flare.
__________________
"Part of the reason a poot into a toilet bowl sounds the way it does is because of phase shift." -Andrew Eckhardt |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: OC,Calif.
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It's important to make that straight edge a flared one like Max suggest's
High outputs will reduce air turbulant noise flowing in/out of this area as much as possible. Regards David |
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