Without the port, the length of the port actually becomes the thickness of the back panel itself. That will give you a box tuning around 45-50 Hertz, introduce a significant boost (peak) at 60-70 Hertz. There will be less bass below 40 Hertz. The bass will be truncated by about -6dB at 30 Hertz.
Thems are the numbers.
Thems are the numbers.
Depends on your room. But audible for sure. But I have to make the thing work accordingly to acceptable rules and good design. The -6dB at 30 Hertz is too much of a penalty - but will only be heard when you have musical material down at that frequency. If I didn't do it right, then the unofficial "union" of loudspeaker designers looking over my shoulder, would look disapprovingly.
I would rather, if possible, experiment with varying room positions. It can make dramatic difference. In my room, 180mm further away from the rear wall was a near revelation. That little bit more into the room, if you can, may make a similar improvement. Try it, if you have the room.
Cheers, Joe
(PS: I don't want to get to heavily into details, but there is a current mirror that sits electrically in parallel, that has a tuned frequency and keeps the current phase angle low. That is near optimum when tuned 33-35 Hertz. I am currently driving my speakers with a "current" amp and it sounds great - will loose that unique capability the Elsinores have - and I may post that "current" amplifier design on diyaudio, 40 Watts per channel.)
Well, not really. Have been stuck with experimenting with the finishing and trying to get the WG mould build going. Things are going a little bit slow I agree.
I think I just decided to wait for some warmer weather to be able to be outside to finish it. I like to get the finish on before start to mount elements etc. On the other hand I am also curious to see how the two port mount will work like. But hang in there it will soon happen.
Good idea! I almost intoxicated myself this winter in the spray boot that I did in my basement to paint the front baffles.
Hello Guys,
I ordered Joel's waveguids ages ago but never got around to actually building the speakers. I've gone through the build thread with renewed interest and, with respect to the waveguide, I conclude that I should mount the tweeters to the waveguides before mounting the waveguides to the cabinets. There is a photo by JkdJake where a gasket is shown to seal the tweeter faceplate to the back of the waveguide. I believe that is good practice in any case.
Apparently there is also is a small gap, between the tweeter and waveguide, around the dome of the tweeter. If I understand correctly, this was not an audio design objective, but an intentional tolerance to make sure that the tweeter will always fit securely. There has been some debate whether this gap should be sealed or not.
I wonder if there is consensus now on this issue?
I ordered Joel's waveguids ages ago but never got around to actually building the speakers. I've gone through the build thread with renewed interest and, with respect to the waveguide, I conclude that I should mount the tweeters to the waveguides before mounting the waveguides to the cabinets. There is a photo by JkdJake where a gasket is shown to seal the tweeter faceplate to the back of the waveguide. I believe that is good practice in any case.
Apparently there is also is a small gap, between the tweeter and waveguide, around the dome of the tweeter. If I understand correctly, this was not an audio design objective, but an intentional tolerance to make sure that the tweeter will always fit securely. There has been some debate whether this gap should be sealed or not.
I wonder if there is consensus now on this issue?
Last edited:
I can have more made..The machinist has raised his price so I would need $180 per pair.. I have to get min 5 pairs at a time and would need money in advance as I cant justify holding stock because I'm adding very little for time and fuel... If 5 people are interested, no problem...
ABO, as for the gap you should just try it both ways and then you will know which one is for you.. Each way is different good.. One way is gap without putty and the other is tight with putty.. I'm guessing that some energy at the large diameter of the dome is getting trapped in the gap so there is a loss of richness and detail but its smoother and more laid back than the tight fit... Take your pick but I chose no gap..
I built my own wave guides out of mdf,that I like the sound of a little better than the metal. I have a pair of Joel's aluminum wave guides I am not using, I will sell for $150 US plus shipping. I don't know how much international shipping would be. Not trying to get in your business Joel but I would like to see someone get some use out of them.
Out of pure curiosity. Why did you prefer the sound of the MDF waveguides? What difference did you notice? I built my Elsinore's in 2011 using Joe's MDF waveguides but if I was building them now I would probably use Joel's round alloy ones (if obtainable) as I think they are aesthetically more pleasing but I've often wondered if there would be an audible and or measurable difference between them and Joe's MDF ones. I have observed that a machined piece of alloy rings somewhat when struck whereas a piece of MDF is quite dead. Food for thought.
I have an extra set of high quality coils and capacitors from Erse Audio to sell. These are the same parts I used to build the filters of my Elsinores. This is an almost complete kit, only the resistors and C1 capacitors are not included. All parts are new and never been soldered. I paid over $300 for these parts and I'm selling them $200. pm me for details if you are interested
Attachments
I found that the mdf wave guides were not quite as bright or edgy as the aluminum guides. I was also able to control the gap better with the mdf. In my system the gap made the presentation much more 3d with nuances that I didn't hear with the gap closed. Also, I could listen to the speakers for hours without any fatigue. At first listen the closed gap sound jumps out at you more and is more "impressive".
That's very interesting as I find mine a very easy unfatiguing listen. Others have agreed (love showing them off). The gap between the tweeter and the waveguide is as per the original design dictated by mounting the tweeter facia flush with 25mm baffle and the MDF waveguide flush with the two 18mm front baffle pieces which does introduce a small gap. A collegue of mine has access to a 3D printer and if possible I would love to print a waveguide and compare.However I will have to model it first in a CAD program (SolidWorks). Learning that will be the hard part.