The "Elsinore Project" Thread

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I'll pick these up and deliver to paint next week
 

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Time to wake up this thread!

I thought I would share the technique I used to remove the seating rib from the electrical coupling connector I will be using for the port (first photo).

Second photo shows a 1 inch router flush trim bit mounted in my drill press. Pulleys set for 3050 rpm for a workable level of speed. This made it easy to trim down the rib to a workable depth as seen in the third photo. It was easy to maintain control and a level of safety while only removing material I wanted removed.

Fourth photo shows a grinding stone bit being used to finish the removal of the remaining rib as the flush bit is never truly flush. The final finish and surface prep is put on with a bit of emery cloth and a bit of elbow grease. Ready for painting....
 

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Picked up Painted Waveguides today. Shipping info to come

Pair of New Cabinets, components recessed with CNC Template. Tweeter and waveguide machines to the correct depths

Note on installing waveguide. Pilot holes need to be centered very accurately or srews will pull the waveguide off centre. Also best to drill out the top of the pilot hole with a larger bit to a depth of a few millimeters so the screw wont lift up the top surface..

Has anyone built the JR mini? It's Pretty special

Joel
 

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Beautiful work Joel! Curly figured maple? The seams between the veneer sheets turned out perfect. Absolutely stunning.

Tell us more about the JR mini.

Personally, I would love to see the Hamlet resurrected with the crossover tuned for the waveguides.

But first things first...
 
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..I need to work my way though this

Your using ply as well! Thats great but Now Im really curious about your construction methods. I went through some agony with this(baltic birch with locked joints) starting 2 years ago and have solved some issues. No problem if your already experienced but would love to hear what your plan is..

Cant find JR mini post but it on this forum somewhere. Joe posted it for, I think, center or rears, but they make excellent small monitors.
 
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I am using 12mm ply.

I plan on building a box within a box. The outer box will completely overlap the joints of the inner box. The inner box will be butt-joined, glued and reenforced with cabinet screws. The current plan for the outer box is to butt-join and glue to the inner box. Although, I am always open to suggestions.
 
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The current plan for the outer box is to butt-join and glue to the inner box. Although, I am always open to suggestions.

Sounds like a strong cab

You dont want to veneer over the plywood end no matter how flush/sanded it is.. The end grain will telegraph through the veneer over a six month period.

The picture shows one solution. hardwood corners work as well.
The front of the Elsinore is a little harder.
 

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I am looking for parts to eventually build the Elsinores. However, I can't seem to get hold of 90mm ports. The available sizes are 70 mm or 100 mm. It seems to me that 100 mm could be made to fit easily, but I don't know what the length should be. I hope that Joe or another member can help me out here.

also I am wondering if the quality of the inductors in the conjugate filters is critical. Can I just order std here or is it worth getting baked or foil inductors. I basically have the same question for the extremely high value caps in those same circuits.

Thanks, Lex
 
It seems to me that 100 mm could be made to fit easily....

also I am wondering if the quality of the inductors in the conjugate filters is critical...

I suspect the internal diameter would be a few mm less 100mm. I would estimate that 105mm long would be about right. I would rather make the port larger diameter and if you can fit 100mm, that would be better than 70mm.

The most critical components are L1 1.8mH (or 2mH) and L2 0.33mH, C1 1.8UF (or 2uF if you like it slightly brighter) and R1 3R.

For those components use the best that you can muster, as for the others, good quality parts are still essential but don't have as direct effect on the sound.

Cheers, Joe R.

.
 
About the ports: Isn't there some sort of formula that I could apply to the port after I measure it, to determine the correct length?

I wish...

There is a difference between actual volume of a box and effective volume, and unless you know the latter the formula isn't all that accurate. The Elsinores have low Qb (the Box Q of a reflex box, I have never actually tried measure it) and that translates it into a larger effective volume. But if you have a microphone and a signal generator, put the mic close to the output of the port and do a low frequency sweep. If the maximum output from the port is in the area of 33-35 Hertz, then all is well. If the output is at a higher frequency, then lengthen the port, and vice versa.

You can also do it via an impedance measurement, look for the saddle (between the to peaks) where the Z is lowest, that will be the Fb. But you will need to have L4, R2 and C3 not in circuit.

Cheers, Joe R.
 
I'm running 2.0uf and have no desire to experiment right now. Seems right on but still want to hear the difference at some point..

Joel

I was initially inclined to experiment with 2.0uF and 2.2uF, but now more likely to suggest 1.8uF or 2.0uF.

But having said that, the 2.2uF may well work in rooms with heavy furnishings.

Up to recently I was using 2.0uF Rifa PPS 100V caps. With their tolerances likely to be up to 5% (probably lower value). Then I tried Jantzen 1.8uF and they are 2% tolerances and actually measure 1.8uF on the button. So check the tolerances of the cap as many are 5% and 10% - more often measure lower than their offical value.

Again, it is the use of a Waveguide that makes small changes far more obvious than conventionally loaded tweeters. In fact, we could say that the change in value has a three times multiplier effect. So all of a sudden the tolerances of caps are now critical when they were hardly before.

Cheers, Joe R.
 
Joel,

You said
The picture shows one solution. hardwood corners work as well.
The front of the Elsinore is a little harder.
I am planning on using 3/4 plywood for my build. Is this your "one solution"?
It looks like a 45 degree with a 90 degree or two. Use solid wood on the front.

Regards,

John
 

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