Check out the Bolserst xover mods. It's been sanctioned by Joe and might just do what you need. I can't remember which post it's on but a quick search should find it.
Hi Leif
No problem. I am waiting for the sample and when that has been OK'd, then the lot will be ordered and shouldn't take long.
Cheers, Joe
I've got all the parts ready to do the Bolserst mod but haven't got my backside into gear to do it yet. (too many projects happening at once) that,s my excuse anyway. I too find them a little overpowering, not necessarily harsh, at high volume but I think that maybe due to the room being a tad small and not ideal (what room is). They are a large speaker and like a large ish room to really sing. Having said that at normal levels they are quite a relaxed listen but they very much tell it like it is. Good recordings are rendered extremely well but a poorly recorded track can't hide.
Joe, or anybody could you please point me out to the on and off-axis response of the HDS tweeter with this waveguide. I looked everywhere could find it...
Thank you,
Nick
Hi Nick
Keep in mind that the front panel itself affects the response in addition to the Waveguide, so the example below is on the front panel of Elsinore Mk6.
Note that the smoothest response is 15 degrees off axis.
Red: On axis.
Green: 15 degrees off axis.
Blue: 30 degrees off axis.
Frequencies below 350Hz and above 24KHz have been digitally edited out and the responses measured within those frequencies are essentially anechoic.
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Please note that the Crossover flattens the response significantly as it suppresses the Waveguide's rise below 10KHz by about -5dB when summed with Midrange and that Coupling Capacitor value is about 1/3rd than what is required when no Waveguide is used. This is also partly the reason why a Waveguide greatly increases power handling and if the Crossover point is not lowered, then also distortion is lowered by 3-4 times.
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Cheers, Joe
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Joe & Co.:
I am making a BOM for three pairs of the Elsinore and would appreciate some guidance on crossover parts. Any knowledgeable recommendations will be appreciated. My goal is to build the crossovers with good or better parts that are (reasonably) cost effective and can stand the test of time; I don't expect to tweak the crossovers once they're finished. I have a few initial questions:
1. What gauge should the inductors be? 12, 14 and 16 gauge are readily available at very different price points.
2. Recommended brands for inductors? Jantzen, Alphacore, Solen and Goertz are all readily available. Does one sound better then the others in the Elsinore? Is there a reason not to "mix and match"?
3. Are Mills resistors a good choice for crossovers? I was considering using the 5 watt versions for R1 and R3, and perhaps two 12 watt resistors in parallel for R2. Or is that overkill?
Thanks for the counsel!
Regards,
Scott
I am making a BOM for three pairs of the Elsinore and would appreciate some guidance on crossover parts. Any knowledgeable recommendations will be appreciated. My goal is to build the crossovers with good or better parts that are (reasonably) cost effective and can stand the test of time; I don't expect to tweak the crossovers once they're finished. I have a few initial questions:
1. What gauge should the inductors be? 12, 14 and 16 gauge are readily available at very different price points.
2. Recommended brands for inductors? Jantzen, Alphacore, Solen and Goertz are all readily available. Does one sound better then the others in the Elsinore? Is there a reason not to "mix and match"?
3. Are Mills resistors a good choice for crossovers? I was considering using the 5 watt versions for R1 and R3, and perhaps two 12 watt resistors in parallel for R2. Or is that overkill?
Thanks for the counsel!
Regards,
Scott
The good things about the Elsinores is that you don't have to spend a ridiculous amount of money as unlike most designs, with just a couple of exceptions listed below, the quality of most parts do not have to be the most expensive type and no loss in performance. This is a DIY friendly design.
Let's look at the Crossover:
The most critical components are C1 and L2 by a far margin.
In fact C1 is super critical - but the best bang for your bucks is the Jantzen 1.8uF - you have to spend crazy money to get any better:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Inductor gauge is not as critical as it it for 8 Ohm and even more four 4 Ohm, the reason is that L1 and L2 sees arms that are 16 Ohm and makes it far less affected by the DCR, four times less than 4 Ohm for example. Keep DCR nicely under 1 Ohm and you will be OK.
The coils you buy should all have DCR listed, so don't worry too much about the gauge, the DCR is all you need to know.
I use Jantzen, you can even use their powder core for L1, 3.9mH or 4mH. Use Jantzen Foil for L2, 0.47mH.
Mills should be fine. I have use Dale CW-5 (6.5W) and are cost effective.
http://www.vishay.com/docs/30215/cw.pdf
Note that R2 should be quite beefy and min 10 Watt and I would recommend even 20 Watt here. As it is in series with a fair bit of series resistance and also large capacitance, the quality is not a huge issue, use 10 Watt ceramics that are cheap, a reliable brand and you won't waste money for no good reason.
Hope that helps.
Cheers, Joe
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Hi Guys
Prototype Waveguide photos below:
The new Waveguide made of Acetal. They feel like an extremely light metal, but they are half the weight of Joel's Waveguide, being each 395gr and that means packed they should come in just under 1Kg.
Click to enlarge.
When witting Waveguide on top of the HDS Tweeter, the improved fit inside the bevel of the Tweeter is a much tighter fit, so much that shown below it virtually centers itself into position.
Click to enlarge.
Finally the Rear View:
Click to enlarge.
They made be made just before Xmas or else early in January.
Cheers, Joe
Prototype Waveguide photos below:
The new Waveguide made of Acetal. They feel like an extremely light metal, but they are half the weight of Joel's Waveguide, being each 395gr and that means packed they should come in just under 1Kg.
When witting Waveguide on top of the HDS Tweeter, the improved fit inside the bevel of the Tweeter is a much tighter fit, so much that shown below it virtually centers itself into position.
Finally the Rear View:
They made be made just before Xmas or else early in January.
Cheers, Joe
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Whew! Busy right now... but to answer your question. I use a remade port that was supplied by Spoonted - bot sure where he got it from. The internal diameter is 65mm and 120mm long. I think it may have been Jaycar, but now no longer available from them
I also looked at Altronics website and saw C3643 which has a 66mm internal diameter, that is close enough, just cut/adjust the length.
You can also use a PVC pipe - use 70mm diameter and check the internal diameter. A slightly larger diameter than 65mm needs a longer length. So if 68mm internal, then add 15mm length (make it 135mm long), if less that 68mm and still more than 65mm, leave the length at 120mm. It does not have to be millimetre accurate, just get it about right.
Let me know your thoughts.
Cheers, Joe