waveguides cut-out
Hi guys,
I have just started making a pair of Elsinores, on Joe's drawings it has the wave guide cut out at 152mm (dependant on waveguide) but Joel who I ordered the a pair of wave guys from says it is much better with a 151mm hole +/-.1 or .2mm. As 152mm is a standard holesaw size I was planning to go get an appropriate hole saw, however is is that 1mm bigger than Joel feels is ideal (and I doubt able to get the precision he is talking about.
What size has everyone else used for their cut-outs, how have they cut them and what level of accuracy do they think they achieved?
Thanks.
Hi guys,
I have just started making a pair of Elsinores, on Joe's drawings it has the wave guide cut out at 152mm (dependant on waveguide) but Joel who I ordered the a pair of wave guys from says it is much better with a 151mm hole +/-.1 or .2mm. As 152mm is a standard holesaw size I was planning to go get an appropriate hole saw, however is is that 1mm bigger than Joel feels is ideal (and I doubt able to get the precision he is talking about.
What size has everyone else used for their cut-outs, how have they cut them and what level of accuracy do they think they achieved?
Thanks.
tweeter
hi
now that i 've got the round wave guides, thanks to Joel,
i'm trying to figure out how to install the tweeters
i've done a very ugly sketch : it seems to me that the tweeter is screwed onto the wave guide but not onto the wood panels
only the wave guide is screwed to the front panel (maybe the screws are long enough to go somehow into the sub front-panel)
if it is so, would it be useful to use longer screws, 75 mm long, and an a sort of metallic ring of 150 mm external diameter to get a stronger tight ?
don diba
hi
now that i 've got the round wave guides, thanks to Joel,
i'm trying to figure out how to install the tweeters
i've done a very ugly sketch : it seems to me that the tweeter is screwed onto the wave guide but not onto the wood panels
only the wave guide is screwed to the front panel (maybe the screws are long enough to go somehow into the sub front-panel)
if it is so, would it be useful to use longer screws, 75 mm long, and an a sort of metallic ring of 150 mm external diameter to get a stronger tight ?
don diba
Attachments
I mounted my tweeters to the waveguide and screwed the waveguide into the sub front panel as you outlined. I just used the the wood screws Joel sent with the waveguide and they worked fine. The fit seems very tight.
That said, you could use a long threaded screw and a T-nut:
T-nut - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
That might be easier than machining and aligning your ring concept, although I do like the ring concept.
I also haven't posted for ages but after reading your results with the 33ohm resistors some tweaking seems in order. About 3 months ago I retired my CD player and went for a media server and streaming device (Cambridge Audio Stream Magic 6). I expected some improvement due to a higher quality D to A converter but the difference is quite staggering. The Elsinore's positively light up. I've noticed that the Elsinore's "tell it like it is" very much. A good recording sounds very good and a bad one is quite noticeably flawed. You mentioned that imaging seems improved with the Bolserst mod MK1. Hard to imagine how it could be improved but I can't wait to give it a go. Still enjoying my Elsinore's immensely.
No worries about too much bass if you seal the vents.
Other options include active equalization, such as the "Audyssy" feature built into many modern recievers.
Thanks for your comments.
I was interessted in because at the moment i built up tube monoamps (300B PP likewise Allen Wright did,the big Allen W. Preamp i have build from his schematics is still working) and so i need a speaker with flat impedance and a bit more SPL than my actual speakers to have fun and not stress the amps.
As you see i have no possibility to tune or equalize in an active way.
Roland
I was interessted in because at the moment i built up tube monoamps (300B PP likewise Allen Wright did,the big Allen W. Preamp i have build from his schematics is still working) and so i need a speaker with flat impedance and a bit more SPL than my actual speakers to have fun and not stress the amps.
As you see i have no possibility to tune or equalize in an active way.
Roland
My room is 3m by 6m. The Elsinores are set up along the long wall and about 1m from the back wall. I have to open the door of the room to let the lowest notes develop. The speakers can be set much wider apart than most. They do boom in the bass if I get them too close to the corners. My room is very "dead" with a lot of sound treatment and bass traps in the corners. The speakers virtually disappear when playing with a large deep soundstage. I have an Audio Note 300b amp and it is just barely enough power to run them. But with the limited power, especially in the bass region, you should be fine. In fact when I use mine with the 300b amp I run a sub.
have you build them?
The Elsinore a very BIG speakers, in a small room you may consider building the Nomex164 from Troels Gravesen, they use also the 830875 and the 810921 but are NOT the same speakers
Cross over componants
Can someone please give me some advice as to where they sourced the more critical components of the crossovers within Australia? particularly high quality inductors?
Or does anyone have a set of finished crossovers they are willing to sell? (my skills lay more on the cabinet making side, the electronics is going to challenge me a lot more.)
Can someone please give me some advice as to where they sourced the more critical components of the crossovers within Australia? particularly high quality inductors?
Or does anyone have a set of finished crossovers they are willing to sell? (my skills lay more on the cabinet making side, the electronics is going to challenge me a lot more.)
Yes, you can have a look at my blog :
Construction d'enceintes "Nomex 164" - Le blog de pguerin
But still thinking of building the Elsinore ... Maybe in when i will be in my now home on march
Hi Guys
I know it has taken some time, in fact too long, but the work on the elusive Hamlets has started and in January the project will being coming together. The first stage of computer modelling is on the way. This last year has been the busiest business wise, in fact it has revolved around my work with Oppo players - which threatened to take over my life. But January is always a little slow and I won't mind. So it is a promise for January.
Cheers, Joe R.
I know it has taken some time, in fact too long, but the work on the elusive Hamlets has started and in January the project will being coming together. The first stage of computer modelling is on the way. This last year has been the busiest business wise, in fact it has revolved around my work with Oppo players - which threatened to take over my life. But January is always a little slow and I won't mind. So it is a promise for January.
Cheers, Joe R.
Hi, you should find everything you need on SpeakerBug's site SpeakerBug, capacitors, inductors, resistors, crossover parts, speaker supplies I have several new parts for the crossovers that I'm willing to sell at half price of the retail cost. Most parts are Erse Audio brand. pm me if you are interested for the list of parts
I get the Jantzen Superior Z Caps from SpeakerBug, capacitors, inductors, resistors, crossover parts, speaker supplies and he accepts PayPal and if you choose the Yellow Express option, you get it the following day. The Jantzen coils are good too.
Remember when I placed an order and he got payment and it said for him to send to Bjoern Rasmussen. So in the email he sent, he assured me it would be sent that afternoon and arrive the following day, which was Friday. Then in the end he asked "Are you related to Joe Rasmussen?"
Cheers, Joe
thanks, looking for you next build.
Yes, you can have a look at my blog :
Construction d'enceintes "Nomex 164" - Le blog de pguerin
But still thinking of building the Elsinore ... Maybe in when i will be in my now home on march