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Old 22nd January 2008, 04:22 AM   #71
rob323 is offline rob323  Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by jpvt68
Thanks Joe, having just read through your Elsinore article I think I will build them and maybe take up your offer in the future.
Do it (listen to them and build them), you won't regret it. I am one of the cain toads that has nearly finished a pair and couldn't be happier with them. They do everything I could want them to do (and plenty of things my neighbours don't want them to do) and without any of the disadvantages that some speakers force you to live with (eg, low sensitivity, low impedances, only suit one specific genre of music etc). The Elsinores let you have your cake AND eat it too.

And a big thumbs up to Joe, who managed to withstand my barrage of emails asking stupid questions without telling me to "sod off" even once . Joe is an absolute pleasure to deal with.
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Old 29th January 2008, 04:27 AM   #72
rob323 is offline rob323  Australia
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Hey Joe, I nearly have one of them finished, here's a sneak peek.
I hope I haven't broken too many rules by finishing them them way I did.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 29th January 2008, 10:55 AM   #73
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Wow, very impressive looking. Did you build them yourself or use a carpenter?
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Old 29th January 2008, 01:12 PM   #74
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Hello rob323,


Thats a very nice looking enclousure,

How do did you do the side and top panels?
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Old 29th January 2008, 06:19 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally posted by rob323

Hey Joe, I nearly have one of them finished, here's a sneak peek.
I hope I haven't broken too many rules by finishing them them way I did.

Click the image to open in full size.

Hi Rob

Looks really good. As for rules, the rounding of the edges I think I can see, is of small radius and should not be a problem. Beveling or rounding of the edges reduces the actual area seen by the driver and has a diffractive effect. But you did not overdo it, so it's OK.

I know you have been listening to them, so you have obviously taken the 6.5" drivers to do the finishing. Wish mine looked like that.

Joe R.
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Old 29th January 2008, 07:16 PM   #76
rob323 is offline rob323  Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by m0tion
Wow, very impressive looking. Did you build them yourself or use a carpenter?
Thank you. Yep, all my own efforts, much blood sweat and beers. The cabinets themselves are very easy to make, the timber paneling wasn't that hard, just took a long time to glue it all up, shape it, sand it then lacquer it.

Quote:
Originally posted by marchel
Hello rob323,


Thats a very nice looking enclosure,

How do did you do the side and top panels?
Again, thank you. For the timber work, I bought about 40 lineal metres of tongue and groove hardwood flooring, it was the only timber I could find of suitable quality (no knots and the grain structure I like).

Click the image to open in full size.

I then ripped all the "tongues" and "grooves" off the lengths and glued and biscuit jointed them together. I made up a simple press to keep it all straight while the glue was drying.

Click the image to open in full size.

Then, attacked it with a jigsaw to get the rough shape, then a planer and belt sander to the bevel on the edges.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The timber panels were then coated on both sides (to hopefully prevent bowing and warping) with clear 60% gloss lacquer.

Quote:
Originally posted by Joe Rasmussen

Hi Rob

Looks really good. As for rules, the rounding of the edges I think I can see, is of small radius and should not be a problem. Beveling or rounding of the edges reduces the actual area seen by the driver and has a diffractive effect. But you did not overdo it, so it's OK.


Joe, there is a small (3mm x 3mm max) chamfer up the vertical edges of the mdf as I didn't want the leather to wrap around a sharp corner as it would damage easier if knocked. I also chamfered around the tweeter recess (about a 6mm chamfer) as the felt doesn't quote fill out the recess (partly because of the extra layer of 3mm mdf on the front that I put on there to recess the drivers) and that got rid of the sharp edge that would have been there. The chamfer actually lines up with the surface of the felt really well now. Once they are all cleaned up, I will take them outside for some close up shots of all those areas.

Quote:
I know you have been listening to them, so you have obviously taken the 6.5" drivers to do the finishing. Wish mine looked like that.
Joe R.
Yeh, I pulled them all apart and taped up all the openings so they wouldn't fill with dust while I did the final routering/ sanding etc.
I had to remove the drivers to be able to glue the leather on.

Click the image to open in full size.

Its been 5 days without being able to listen to them, luckily my medication is keeping me calm and subdued
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Old 30th January 2008, 06:17 PM   #77
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When I build the center channel to match the Elsinores..using the same crossover minus the woofer section, what size of port should I use?
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Old 30th January 2008, 08:13 PM   #78
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Old 30th January 2008, 08:41 PM   #79
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No port?
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Old 30th January 2008, 08:50 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by PoorSound

When I build the center channel to match the Elsinores..using the same crossover minus the woofer section, what size of port should I use?

If I have you right, you are going to use half the volume and just the top three drivers in MTM array. If so, then you will miss out on the diffraction loss that the two bottom drivers fill in below 1KHz.

You will need to do the following:

Change L2 from 1mH to 1.8mH or 2mH (main diffraction correction)

Change R3 from 3R to 6R to 8R (this changes Tweeter attenuation to -6dB)

For C14 use 2.7 to 3uF (the 8R2 larger value changes rollover point - this is the correction)

Leave the optional values in the Conjugate Filter as before.

The one value that needs to be tweaked by ear is R3. Try standard values 6R8 and 8R2 and some value in the middle of that.

The above should give quite good results, but as I have not actually built them (and measured them), I can only say that it ought to work well.

The centre channel will be lower sensitivity than Elsinores and I have not tried to entirely compensate for diffraction so as not to slug sensitivity too much, about 1-2dB short. But for centre channel this is no problem and a reasonable compromise.

If somebody down here would like to build Elsinore Centre Channel, then if they could build the box etc, then bring it to me for doing physical measurements confirming above results, then a Centre Channel could be published on the website. The Centre Channel could also be used as rear speakers in vertical mode. As a centre channel it is a little large, but alas.... use laterally of course.

The attached image shows the difference in the two, Blue is Elsinore and Red the new result - the difference in sensitivity is also revealed.

Re port, use 60mm (internal) and 120mm long. If the 60mm port is slightly less than 60mm, then that will be OK as well. But if it gets close to 55mm, then reduce length to 100mm.

ALSO: It is recommended that the bottom of the box have the same dimensions as the top, at least viewed from the front. For example, if we were to cut the box in two right in the centre of the tweeter, then the bottom should mirror the top. That way the lateral radiation from the box will be symmetrical when the box is on its side.

Joe R.
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File Type: gif elsinore_centre_channel_modeling.gif (39.8 KB, 1023 views)
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