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Old 4th March 2011, 01:10 PM   #741
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Joe, I'm very Sorry to hear about for your loss. My Condolences.
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Old 4th March 2011, 01:34 PM   #742
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Joe, I emailed a question before I discovered your last post.
Maybe better posted here.

Joe, no problem for the delay and Thanks for upgrading an already very musical speaker that I sat in front of from 11am until 7pm yesterday.

My Question:
"I will also assume that the radius(r16) at the exit just needs to be smooth?
Sorry, but can't understand if R16 is specifically telling me what to do and dont know how important it might be? If smooth is key then I can come up with something."

If Steve can help with my question it will be well appreciated


If I can get someone to make these I would not add any fee to the price I'm getting, just shipping charge
The only thing is I'm looking to make the outer perimeter round as My front panels can be adjusted before veneering. I'll still see about the original shape as well.. I'll post when it happens or not.

Joel
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Old 4th March 2011, 06:44 PM   #743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
Joe, I emailed a question before I discovered your last post.
Maybe better posted here.

Joe, no problem for the delay and Thanks for upgrading an already very musical speaker that I sat in front of from 11am until 7pm yesterday.

My Question:
"I will also assume that the radius(r16) at the exit just needs to be smooth?
Sorry, but can't understand if R16 is specifically telling me what to do and dont know how important it might be? If smooth is key then I can come up with something."

If Steve can help with my question it will be well appreciated


If I can get someone to make these I would not add any fee to the price I'm getting, just shipping charge
The only thing is I'm looking to make the outer perimeter round as My front panels can be adjusted before veneering. I'll still see about the original shape as well.. I'll post when it happens or not.

Joel
Joel and Joe, I would hate to take such a beautifully designed speaker and put a sub-standard waveguide in it just because I have a guy that says he can make them. I guess I'll pass and leave it up to you guy's that know what your doing. Can't wait to build my MK V's.

Tom
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Old 4th March 2011, 07:01 PM   #744
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R16 means 16mm radius, and its probably pretty important, given the nature of wave guides, and the fact that he took to time to spec it.
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Old 4th March 2011, 10:48 PM   #745
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G’day All
BIG TIP#1-The biggest trick is to get the transition between the 16mm radius at the front face interface, and the junction at the conical (90degree included angle) inside face interface- just right. As you can see from the drawing, the centre of the radius is not the easy to locate. Both interfaces are tangents.
BIG TIP#2- If you going down the cnc path consider the overall thickness of the panel- 18mm is not enough. You will need to use 21mm (which doesn’t exist) if you plan to machine from a single slab- or need to machine down from 25mm thick, which would equal allot of machine time. Check the drawing.
BIG TIP#3- If an overhead router cnc machine is used, you need to have the machinist run very fine passes, or you will end up with mini grooves which will require a lot of sanding. More passes equals more time equals more cost- it’s a trade off
BIG TIP#4- The throat edge of the WG is susceptible to damage when machining- it not that thick there, particularly if you plan to use MDF- steady as you go
BIG TIP#5- I think MDF is the quickest and easiest way to get a smooth an accurate "machined" finish. You will not get a smooth machined finished with plastics as you would with mdf- and mdf is easy to get super smooth.
BIG TIP#6- Using a timber product with grain will also be difficult as the grain will need to be "super tight", or else the areas where the grain changes direction will "fluff up" and become woolly and difficult to get smooth. Remember the surface needs to be as smooth as.

Good luck with the challenge. Its a good one!

Its a bit like solving a rubiks cube and only being able to use multigrip pliers

I've had the luxury of 25 years in both mechanical engineering and carpentry/cabinetry to understand the pros and cons

Joe
Sorry to hear the bad news.
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Old 5th March 2011, 01:35 PM   #746
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Thank's Greenpea. That Helps

No metric bits around here that I've seen
If I do it myself the one I would use has a 5/8" radius and this equals 15.875mm. Should be close enough I would think.

JW
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Old 16th March 2011, 01:48 AM   #747
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Today, I was At Creative CNC and and after a long discussion on different ways to make the Wave Guide, the best method we came up with was with Alluminum round stock turned in his CNC Lathe. I paid $200 to get first pair made and additional pairs will be about $100. The outside diameter is 150mm
The pieces should be anodized or clear coated.

When I get the units I will post pictures with more details.
The cavity would have to be filled in beyond the Waveguide. Sorry this was the best I could come up with but willing to make MDF filler boards for anyone..

Is there anyone that might be interested in a pair

Joel
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Old 16th March 2011, 02:45 AM   #748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
I paid $200 to get first pair made and additional pairs will be about $100. The outside diameter is 150mm
The pieces should be anodized or clear coated.

When I get the units I will post pictures with more details.
The cavity would have to be filled in beyond the Waveguide. Sorry this was the best I could come up with but willing to make MDF filler boards for anyone..

Is there anyone that might be interested in a pair

Joel
That's not a bad price for aluminum. Being round stock would keep the price down. But how easy will the fill-in be? A piece of MDF 18mm (or 3/4" I suppose) thick, get a tool that can cuts it out.

Something like this tool: Jasper Circle Jigs - Soundlabs Group

I would anodise the aluminium black - otherwise it might look a bit funny on the eye. Black will hide any imperfections better. How about satin black powder coat? That might work, right?

Steve should have his Mk5 running tomorrow, the upgraded crossovers will be delivered overnight. Spoonted should have his going soon too. But Steve (greenpea) has promised feedback before the weekend.

Cheers, Joe R.
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Old 16th March 2011, 03:26 AM   #749
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"But how easy will the fill-in be? A piece of MDF 18mm (or 3/4" I suppose) thick"

I Have a sheet of 18mm MDF not destined for any other use right now.
I think I would make a simple circle template that lays over a 156mm by 226mm MDF board. The hole in template is calculated to accomadate the Router Guide Bushing offset and give the desired diameter.
I'm finding its best to make a template even for a few parts..

Joel
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Old 16th March 2011, 06:19 AM   #750
Luke is offline Luke  New Zealand
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Hi Joel, I may be interested, any idea what shipping to NZ may be?

Joe I built your tbigc with ccs, it was the best of my gainclones so I have alot of confidence in your designs and also your ear. Thing is I expect the sort of money I will spend on this could be spent on a quality pair of used speakers that can be auditioned so its a difficult decision to through with it, I also question my woodworking skills.
So my point is, what in this part of the world can I listen to that sounds close to these? I'm obviously in NZ and will be in Sydney in July so can either listen to the real thing or something you may think is close to them. I want full range, ie good bass, but that's not a show stopper, I value dynamics most I think, imaging and last would be sound stage. Thanks.
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