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Old 14th January 2011, 07:13 PM   #671
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Old 17th January 2011, 02:40 AM   #672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Rasmussen View Post
Right about the finish, it's hard work if you want it to look good.

Re Damping Material, Can you get your hand on this:

PolyMax, Pure Bonded Polyester Fibre by Martini and rated R3.0

Note it is "acoustic" in the title description: "Thermal & Acoustic Insulation Batts."

Got the whole bag for $80, so plenty left over for other projects or helping others. This stuff is easy to work with, not hard on your hands and what I am using now.

You could call him on 0414-371163 here in Sydney and he may be able to tell how much to send to WA o maybe even better help you to find a place in WA that has it. Maybe he could give you Martini's phone number or where he orders it from.

If you call him, I seem to recall his name is Dave, Dave Burnett, let us know here how it worked out.

Cheers, Joe
Hi Joe thanks for the info,
as it turns out i have spoken to Dave before and he put me onto using Autex QuietStuf Acoustic Insulation bats witch are available from bunnings in WA.
The cook is flying to Perth in a few weeks so i,ll get her to pick me up some.

Autex stuff is available in R2.5 100mm, R2 90mm or R1.5 75mm thermally bonded 100% Polyester. So i,m figuring the R2.5 100mm stuff will be a good substitute for the original 75mm Wool /Dacron blend.

http://www.autex.com.au/files/files/...-Quietstuf.pdf


Cheers Paul
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Old 23rd January 2011, 06:43 AM   #673
seanny is offline seanny  United States
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Joe, how is it coming along?
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Old 24th January 2011, 02:40 AM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanny View Post
Joe, how is it coming along?

Just about to announce Crossover details.

Cheers, Joe R.
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Last edited by Joe Rasmussen; 24th January 2011 at 02:46 AM.
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Old 24th January 2011, 04:31 AM   #675
soongsc is offline soongsc  Taiwan
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I am curious as to why the Linear Current Loudspeaker is the worlds first!
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Old 24th January 2011, 05:23 AM   #676
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It's not. Thorsten has given some solid references. Joe's is the 1st practical moern one to get "wide" attention.

dave
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Old 24th January 2011, 08:23 AM   #677
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Well, Steve (who will be making the waveguides) has taken his family away for the week as he hasn't had a summer break yet.

That should mean the waveguides be made in the first week of February.

In the meantime I can publish details of the new Crossover and answer any questions and just generally discuss as the new Crossover is a major revision over anything that has gone before it.

You should also be able to start ordering parts - the only component value I am thinking about fine-tuning is the 2.2uF Coupling Cap to the Tweeter.

Here it would pay to get the best quality cap that you can afford, this is the single most critical component in qualitive terms.

But I may still be tempted to reduce to 2uF (but unlikely going as low as 1.8uF) - but if you ordered 2uF and 0.22uF and tried both 2uF and 2.22uF and then made your own decison? Fine by me.

Point is that this Tweeter Coupling cap value can be Tweaked by the end user. Higher value will give you a brighter balance or vice versa.

IMPORTANT:

Read carefully about the corrected value of R3 - or you will end up with the wrong resistor.

So look below and away we go...

ELSINORE MARK 5 CROSSOVER:

(Make sure you expand it all the way - on my computer required TWO clicks, the second one bottom left corner)

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 24th January 2011, 08:54 AM   #678
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CROSSOVER PARTS LIST

2 x 3R 5W min

2 x 9R 5W min (or get 4 x 18R and go parallel)

2 x [R3] Needs to be calculated - likely to be 6R8 or similar

2 x 18mH - or can use 2 x 9mH for example - in that case get 4

4 x 1.8mH DCR 1R absolute max

2 x 0.33mH DCR 0R5 max

2 x 0.18mH DCR 0R3 max

2 x 2.2uF - HIGH QUALITY

4 x 33uF/100V Bi-Polar or Non-Polar

2 x 300uF/100V Bi-Polar or Non-Polar (most likely get 6 x 100uF)


Note concerning Bi-Polar capacitors, generally if you buy 100V variety they tend to be of better quality. But if somebody offers Very High Quality Bi-Polars or Non-Polars and they are rated at 50V, then OK to use.

I am sure there will be questions, it's important to make sure you have it right in your own mind and if there is something I haven't made clear enough, then fire away.

Cheers, Joe R.
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Old 24th January 2011, 06:45 PM   #679
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Excellent!

Parts are ordered and going to install in new Pair.
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Old 24th January 2011, 09:46 PM   #680
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WAVEGUIDE INTRODUCTION

Needless to say, it now comes down to the Waveguide. Once the new Crossovers are done, this is the only change required for existing Mark 3 and Mark 4 box owners, which is likely to be most of you (later on the customanalogue.com website, details on upgrading Mark 1 and 2 will be forth coming).

We can describe this as a Shallow Waveguide. I am sure some of you are familiar with the Geddes Waveguide that uses a 1" compression driver. Here the complexity of the Waveguide and its shape is very high. But a Shallow Waveguide is a lot simpler and less need to follow complex mathematical rules, although it does not allow for ignorance either. Once you have mounted any Waveguide into a system, that Waveguide needs to be computer modelled for the exact chosen shape and profile. As it is, the shape and profile of our Waveguide is turning out to be doing the desired job we wanted for it.

So our Waveguide is a compromised Waveguide, but this makes it far less than useless. In fact very useful indeed. Our Waveguide is only 18mm.

But even a smaller 12mm Waveguide has been shown to have advantages. A good read re 12mm Waveguide (about as shallow as you'd want to make them), read Robert C White's article on Rod Elliott's website:

Practical DIY Waveguides - Part 1


Our Waveguide is basically an 18mm version of Robert's 12mm - but with something added that needs to fix a problem at the "Throat" of the Waveguide. The Throat is a term Waveguides gets from Horns, it is the opnening of the Waveguide nearest the driver, the "entry" into the Waveguide, and it needs to be reasonably smooth. Here is where we found we had a problem that needs explaining. Here is our driver:

Click the image to open in full size.

Here we see our problem, that Bevelled Edge means that a flushmounted Waveguide with a diameter lining up with the outside of the Tweeter's surround, there would be a large gap and cause significant discountinuity at the throat of the Waveguide.

The prototype made by Steve and which is now used in the first Mark 5, fixes that. They have a little "lip" that fills in that Bevelled Edge of the Tweeter and hence a much cleaner entry into the Waveguide.

I can pass on the drawings that I gave to Steve, but then you would be on your own to also come up with a working solution.

I am more inclined to wait for Steve first batch of Waveguides in early February and then measure them up and post technical drawings that can be examined and the DIY upgrader can decide if he is up to making them himself or order a pair from us. I also need to consult with Steve to see where he stands on this, as he is the one making the Waveguides for us.

But so far we seem to have achieved lift-off but not yet in orbit.

Cheers, Joe R.
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