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Old 29th January 2009, 12:33 AM   #341
rob323 is offline rob323  Australia
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I used 8gx50 c's chipboard screws. Bought a bucket of 500 and used about half of them.

Drilled the initial 3.0mm diameter holes through both pieces with a brad point bit -
Click the image to open in full size.

Then removed the outside piece and re-drilled it with a 4mm counterbore bit similar to these.
Click the image to open in full size.

Any area where the countersink went close to the edge of the mdf (where it had the possibility of swelling or breaking out the mdf), I applied some super thin cyanoacrylate balsa glue (ie. superglue) which soaked into the mdf and made it nice and hard.

Cheers,
Rob.
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Old 29th January 2009, 01:19 AM   #342
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by rob323
I
Then removed the outside piece and re-drilled it with a 4mm counterbore bit similar to these.
Cheers,
Rob.

Nice tools

But theres really not need to use ordinary countersink
Actually no need to do anything at all
Predrilling fore the head is only to prevent damage of surface
Whether the screw needs actual predrilling with small drill is a matter of screw size
But you could do a test to examine that
Assemble a couple of small pieces, and seperate them to look fore splitting
Actually you should be carefull when driving the screw in...modern tools could easily drive the screw right through the plate

btw, also when using screws, i also recommend to fix the plates with a couple of small nails
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Old 29th January 2009, 01:26 AM   #343
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Thanks for the tips and tricks guys,

i will definately invest in a set of these drill bits!

the cyanacrolyte idea is excellent thanks Rob.

i sent the drawings to the wood shop to get the pieces pre cut...

they can do 0.5 mm accuracy so i am happy with that - hopefully dont have to spend two weeks sanding the boxes

My next step is what surface i should finish these with.........

I think i will go with wood grain veneer and gloss varnish or something like that.





PS i cant wait to build these things !!!!!!!!!
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Old 29th January 2009, 02:10 AM   #344
rob323 is offline rob323  Australia
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I re-drilled the outside panel with the 4mm bit cause the shank on the screws wasn't long enough and the thread was catching on the outside panel so that the screw did not pull the outside panel tight onto the inside one. (Does that make any sense??).

Daniel, when you get your panels cut, make sure they check that the blade is exactly perpendicular to the bench. My cabinet maker got the overall dimensions spot on, but the blade was set to about 5 degrees off vertical and I had them recut it all again.
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Old 29th January 2009, 02:55 AM   #345
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by rob323

I re-drilled the outside panel with the 4mm bit

(Does that make any sense??).

Yes its the proper way, and I have always done so too

But you know, these days you can get the strangest screws fore almost any purpos...even with drilling tip
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Old 29th January 2009, 03:19 AM   #346
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Yes i know what you mean Rob,

i woudl have done it myself but the current saw i have does not quite have the length, it is approx 900mm or so.... i have previously used the saw and flipped the workpiece but it ends up ugly !

I get what you mean about the 4mm hole for the screws....
i will take all this on board.

certainly not my first speaker project but i want it to be the prettiest/best quality.

-Dan
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Old 29th January 2009, 04:03 AM   #347
rob323 is offline rob323  Australia
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I also got my side panels cut oversize in width so the side panels overlapped the front and back by 2mm or so. I then trimmed them back with a flush trim router bit. I hate it when trying to line up a joint perfectly only to find it moved 0.5mm when pulling it up and the panel ends up that amount short of the one perpendicular to it, and then you have to decide whether to try and redo it, or bog it, or ignore and and hope the glue for the veneer fills the gap.

I didn't use any clamps as such, but I did use a couple of cheap strap clamps to help hold things while screwing everything up.
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Old 29th January 2009, 04:27 AM   #348
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Hi Rob,

The finish on your really does look good, i was really impressed when i saw the job you did. It looks better than most of the 10-20k speakers you see in hifi places.

I have access to clamps and various sanders so it should not be a problem.

the holes i will cut with a key hole router and "round hole jig"
if that makes sense (may have the name wrong) either way it gets nigh on perfect holes you just need to watch the last little bit when you complete the circle. and then file the burr.

i am undecided on what to cover them with tho...

I will do a search around the local suppliers and look at some laminates/veneers/coatings and see what i come up with.
however plain black can look good too.

any suggestions?

-Dan
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Old 29th January 2009, 10:03 AM   #349
BL4S7ER is offline BL4S7ER  Australia
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Great to see a few ppl are putting these together! should be interesting to see the results. I finally got the binding posts so work can continue.

Bought 8 pairs (3 pairs for left,right and 2 for the center). Worked out at around $10.80 AUS for each pair inc postage from US. im happy with the quality and they look the part. bought em off a store called '8audio'.

Primarily home theatre oriented the speakers are going to be in the same room as a projector and as such a requirement is that they need to be dark. Regarding enclosure finish, ive decided to use a wood veneer, stain it black (I still want to see the grain however), and then apply a satin varnish. Still, im unsure as to what veneer or wood stainer i need to achieve the best result.

anyways attached is a pic of the binding posts
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Old 29th January 2009, 10:14 AM   #350
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Hi BL4S7ER

Nice, They even Gave you a pretty little box for the terminals!

I have looked at some veneer "leaves" today

From left to right is Jarrah, Walnut, Beech, and Silver Ash

I think i am going to choose the Beech

and cover it gloss clear coat estapol or similar.
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