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Old 22nd January 2009, 05:06 PM   #331
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Quote:
i chose the 3mm plywood because its bendable, i'm going 2 make both sides and back in one piece of ply (kinda like B&W's 800D) and the same shape as the B&W 804S

Consider leaving the cabinets the way there designed. Joe has went to great lenghts to have amazing sound come out of simple to make cabinets..

When I arrived at the point where all the panels where dry fitted I thought they looked very, very nice and much better than any picture has show..
The trick to a beatuful look then lies in how the finish is done using one or a few of the many materials available..

When your listening to the Elsinore cosmetics become
unimportant..

Danger: If you assemble and listen before you put the finish on, like I did, it will be very hard to shut them down to complete the surfaces...

Joel
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Old 22nd January 2009, 08:31 PM   #332
CCU is offline CCU  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally posted by Joel Wesseling



Consider leaving the cabinets the way there designed. Joe has went to great lenghts to have amazing sound come out of simple to make cabinets..

When I arrived at the point where all the panels where dry fitted I thought they looked very, very nice and much better than any picture has show..
The trick to a beatuful look then lies in how the finish is done using one or a few of the many materials available..

When your listening to the Elsinore cosmetics become
unimportant..

Danger: If you assemble and listen before you put the finish on, like I did, it will be very hard to shut them down to complete the surfaces...

Joel

well the cosmetics is mostly a GAF problem and GAF is a huge problem if it isn't there!

plus i like the challenge and i WILL be comparing the 2 speaker kabinets, hopefully my version will be as good as the original.

BTW i've ordered some crossover components
clarity cap SA series for all caps exept 68uf which is a Jantzen crosscap
Coils: Jantzen baked air coils. But haven't been able to find a 9mh coil, except for a 1.2mm air coil which seems insufficient for bass(in my mind) need to find something sutible
Risistors: duelund througout the crossover

based my choice of caps partly because of this test
link
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Old 25th January 2009, 04:20 PM   #333
DanielG is offline DanielG  Australia
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I'm seriously interested in buying the kit from Joe, but I was wondering if there's anyone in Melbourne (AUS!) that has a pair that I could come around and listen to first?

And another question while I'm at it: Can anyone recommend a reliable shop that could cut (and possibly build?) the cabinets for me? I have virtually no proper tools, and I don't want to screw it up if I end up building them.
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Old 25th January 2009, 05:26 PM   #334
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Quote:
Originally posted by DanielG
And another question while I'm at it: Can anyone recommend a reliable shop that could cut (and possibly build?) the cabinets for me?
I would also like to know that...

dave
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Old 26th January 2009, 05:36 PM   #335
CCU is offline CCU  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally posted by Joel Wesseling



Danger: If you assemble and listen before you put the finish on, like I did, it will be very hard to shut them down to complete the surfaces...

Joel

I'll remember that
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Old 29th January 2009, 12:03 AM   #336
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Hi all,

I have decided to take the plunge and build a pair of Elsinores after talking to Joe acouple of weeks ago. and reading ALL the info on joes site.

I have a question for people who have built the speakers,

when you countersink the screws in the MDF can you tell me the specific countersinking tool and brand you used ?
and the screw and pilot bit sizes you have used ?

the reason i ask is previously i have seen MDF warp or bow at the screw joint and i want to avoid this for a nice smooth finish.

-Dan
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Old 29th January 2009, 12:51 AM   #337
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by danieljw
Hi all,

when you countersink the screws in the MDF can you tell me the specific countersinking tool and brand you used ?
and the screw and pilot bit sizes you have used ?

-Dan

Hi Dan

Today I dont use the normal countersinking, I have used it a lot in past though
I have found a much better way

You need a wood drill with center tap
Its a standard drill fore wood
Size is what fits the head diameter of your screws, preferably not too big...thin screws are best fore MDF, less risk of splitting

Just drill deep enough so that the screwhead is just below surface...about 1.5mm
This way you get a hole as small and smooth as possible
Further putty will be much easier and better lasting

If you want it real nice, and have some skills, you take out the screws once the glue is dried
Then drill the holes deeper using same drill, could be all the way through both items
Then plug the holes with woodplugs and glue
Fore finish I use a small handsaw with fine tooths, and at last a sharp chisel...but I suppose it could be done by sanding also

These days, to get rit of the putting, many prefer to do without screws and use glue only
In case of that I suggest to use a couple of small countersinking nails, to fix the plates while tightening the clamps

Man, I really needed my dictionary fore that one

good luck
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Old 29th January 2009, 12:58 AM   #338
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Thanks tinitus,

i appreciate the info,

I take it you mean a "spade bit" in the same diameter as the screw
= new idea i might try

thanks

-dan
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Old 29th January 2009, 01:08 AM   #339
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Well, like you say...a picture says more than words

You may also look at page "i2" in this document
http://www.wolfcraft.de/workarea/sup...s/BAL/3750.pdf
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File Type: jpg trębor.jpg (28.3 KB, 561 views)
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Old 29th January 2009, 01:20 AM   #340
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Thanks tinitus !!!!
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