I used 8gx50 c's chipboard screws. Bought a bucket of 500 and used about half of them.
Drilled the initial 3.0mm diameter holes through both pieces with a brad point bit -
Then removed the outside piece and re-drilled it with a 4mm counterbore bit similar to these.
Any area where the countersink went close to the edge of the mdf (where it had the possibility of swelling or breaking out the mdf), I applied some super thin cyanoacrylate balsa glue (ie. superglue) which soaked into the mdf and made it nice and hard.
Cheers,
Rob.
Drilled the initial 3.0mm diameter holes through both pieces with a brad point bit -
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then removed the outside piece and re-drilled it with a 4mm counterbore bit similar to these.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Any area where the countersink went close to the edge of the mdf (where it had the possibility of swelling or breaking out the mdf), I applied some super thin cyanoacrylate balsa glue (ie. superglue) which soaked into the mdf and made it nice and hard.
Cheers,
Rob.
rob323 said:
Nice tools
But theres really not need to use ordinary countersink
Actually no need to do anything at all
Predrilling fore the head is only to prevent damage of surface
Whether the screw needs actual predrilling with small drill is a matter of screw size
But you could do a test to examine that
Assemble a couple of small pieces, and seperate them to look fore splitting
Actually you should be carefull when driving the screw in...modern tools could easily drive the screw right through the plate
btw, also when using screws, i also recommend to fix the plates with a couple of small nails
Thanks for the tips and tricks guys,
i will definately invest in a set of these drill bits!
the cyanacrolyte idea is excellent thanks Rob.
i sent the drawings to the wood shop to get the pieces pre cut...
they can do 0.5 mm accuracy so i am happy with that - hopefully dont have to spend two weeks sanding the boxes
My next step is what surface i should finish these with.........
I think i will go with wood grain veneer and gloss varnish or something like that.
PS i cant wait to build these things !!!!!!!!!
i will definately invest in a set of these drill bits!
the cyanacrolyte idea is excellent thanks Rob.
i sent the drawings to the wood shop to get the pieces pre cut...
they can do 0.5 mm accuracy so i am happy with that - hopefully dont have to spend two weeks sanding the boxes
My next step is what surface i should finish these with.........
I think i will go with wood grain veneer and gloss varnish or something like that.
PS i cant wait to build these things !!!!!!!!!
I re-drilled the outside panel with the 4mm bit cause the shank on the screws wasn't long enough and the thread was catching on the outside panel so that the screw did not pull the outside panel tight onto the inside one. (Does that make any sense??).
Daniel, when you get your panels cut, make sure they check that the blade is exactly perpendicular to the bench. My cabinet maker got the overall dimensions spot on, but the blade was set to about 5 degrees off vertical and I had them recut it all again.
Daniel, when you get your panels cut, make sure they check that the blade is exactly perpendicular to the bench. My cabinet maker got the overall dimensions spot on, but the blade was set to about 5 degrees off vertical and I had them recut it all again.
Yes i know what you mean Rob,
i woudl have done it myself but the current saw i have does not quite have the length, it is approx 900mm or so.... i have previously used the saw and flipped the workpiece but it ends up ugly !
I get what you mean about the 4mm hole for the screws....
i will take all this on board.
certainly not my first speaker project but i want it to be the prettiest/best quality.
-Dan
i woudl have done it myself but the current saw i have does not quite have the length, it is approx 900mm or so.... i have previously used the saw and flipped the workpiece but it ends up ugly !
I get what you mean about the 4mm hole for the screws....
i will take all this on board.
certainly not my first speaker project but i want it to be the prettiest/best quality.
-Dan
I also got my side panels cut oversize in width so the side panels overlapped the front and back by 2mm or so. I then trimmed them back with a flush trim router bit. I hate it when trying to line up a joint perfectly only to find it moved 0.5mm when pulling it up and the panel ends up that amount short of the one perpendicular to it, and then you have to decide whether to try and redo it, or bog it, or ignore and and hope the glue for the veneer fills the gap.
I didn't use any clamps as such, but I did use a couple of cheap strap clamps to help hold things while screwing everything up.
I didn't use any clamps as such, but I did use a couple of cheap strap clamps to help hold things while screwing everything up.
Hi Rob,
The finish on your really does look good, i was really impressed when i saw the job you did. It looks better than most of the 10-20k speakers you see in hifi places.
I have access to clamps and various sanders so it should not be a problem.
the holes i will cut with a key hole router and "round hole jig"
if that makes sense (may have the name wrong) either way it gets nigh on perfect holes you just need to watch the last little bit when you complete the circle. and then file the burr.
i am undecided on what to cover them with tho...
I will do a search around the local suppliers and look at some laminates/veneers/coatings and see what i come up with.
however plain black can look good too.
any suggestions?
-Dan
The finish on your really does look good, i was really impressed when i saw the job you did. It looks better than most of the 10-20k speakers you see in hifi places.
I have access to clamps and various sanders so it should not be a problem.
the holes i will cut with a key hole router and "round hole jig"
if that makes sense (may have the name wrong) either way it gets nigh on perfect holes you just need to watch the last little bit when you complete the circle. and then file the burr.
i am undecided on what to cover them with tho...
I will do a search around the local suppliers and look at some laminates/veneers/coatings and see what i come up with.
however plain black can look good too.
any suggestions?
-Dan
Great to see a few ppl are putting these together! should be interesting to see the results. I finally got the binding posts so work can continue.
Bought 8 pairs (3 pairs for left,right and 2 for the center). Worked out at around $10.80 AUS for each pair inc postage from US. im happy with the quality and they look the part. bought em off a store called '8audio'.
Primarily home theatre oriented the speakers are going to be in the same room as a projector and as such a requirement is that they need to be dark. Regarding enclosure finish, ive decided to use a wood veneer, stain it black (I still want to see the grain however), and then apply a satin varnish. Still, im unsure as to what veneer or wood stainer i need to achieve the best result.
anyways attached is a pic of the binding posts
Bought 8 pairs (3 pairs for left,right and 2 for the center). Worked out at around $10.80 AUS for each pair inc postage from US. im happy with the quality and they look the part. bought em off a store called '8audio'.
Primarily home theatre oriented the speakers are going to be in the same room as a projector and as such a requirement is that they need to be dark. Regarding enclosure finish, ive decided to use a wood veneer, stain it black (I still want to see the grain however), and then apply a satin varnish. Still, im unsure as to what veneer or wood stainer i need to achieve the best result.
anyways attached is a pic of the binding posts
Attachments
Hi BL4S7ER
Nice, They even Gave you a pretty little box for the terminals!
I have looked at some veneer "leaves" today
From left to right is Jarrah, Walnut, Beech, and Silver Ash
I think i am going to choose the Beech
and cover it gloss clear coat estapol or similar.
Nice, They even Gave you a pretty little box for the terminals!
I have looked at some veneer "leaves" today
From left to right is Jarrah, Walnut, Beech, and Silver Ash
I think i am going to choose the Beech
and cover it gloss clear coat estapol or similar.
Attachments
The port I used is a 2 1/2 inch ABS coupling used in plumbing. Maybe someone has already discovered this but the size of said coupling is 90mm inside, 82mm long and 100mm outside. I coudn't believe it when found this..
You have to ream or grind out the ridge on the inside and cut or sand to 80mm length
It fits snuggly between the two stiffening panels.
Joel
You have to ream or grind out the ridge on the inside and cut or sand to 80mm length
It fits snuggly between the two stiffening panels.
Joel
Hello, I've finished building my Elsinore speaker from several months, I think it was in october if I'm not wrong.
I've been playing with them for a lot of months. You know playing with the crossover is a lot of fun. And I also tried different position in room and different gear.
I tried also the crossover inside/outside the cabinet. I now have it outside, it's way better outside. I don't know if I had choosen the right layout( I tried) of inductors in the internal version, but the FR must have been different since there were sonic differences. Also at high volume the sound seemed to me less confused.
The Elsinore speaker is clearly designed for valve amplifier, I have an AMC 2030 wich have 4 EL34 for 30W in class A. If you use solid state amplifier I think the Elsinore are not so neutral, they're on the bright side.
The bass, and dynamic in general is great. The speaker is clear also at high volume, so distortion is low, very low for an hifi speaker.
The soundstage is great, is impressive. Only some sounds seem to come from the tweeter.
The less apparent quality is the phase coerence, but it is clearly audible with the voices.
Someone before was saying this tweeter wasn't detailed, but it is detailed.
Now I have some question to the designer:
1)What is exactly the function of the feld around the tweeter?
2)I tried to add an RC circuit until R=4ohm C=2,2uF. Then I reverted to the original crossover because the I think it make worse offaxis performance. Could you show me what changes in FR with/without the RC circuit?
3)I also use those speaker connected to a PA amp to see movies with a group of people,please could you give me some tip to change the values of xover components to make the speaker more suitable to the amp?
4) What do you think of the so called "BBC dip"? Do it or not in designing a speaker?
Thank you for designing this great laudspeaker.
PS
I don't want to bother you with all those questions but I'm studying to do one on my own in the future, a low cost bookshelf just to learn.
I've been playing with them for a lot of months. You know playing with the crossover is a lot of fun. And I also tried different position in room and different gear.
I tried also the crossover inside/outside the cabinet. I now have it outside, it's way better outside. I don't know if I had choosen the right layout( I tried) of inductors in the internal version, but the FR must have been different since there were sonic differences. Also at high volume the sound seemed to me less confused.
The Elsinore speaker is clearly designed for valve amplifier, I have an AMC 2030 wich have 4 EL34 for 30W in class A. If you use solid state amplifier I think the Elsinore are not so neutral, they're on the bright side.
The bass, and dynamic in general is great. The speaker is clear also at high volume, so distortion is low, very low for an hifi speaker.
The soundstage is great, is impressive. Only some sounds seem to come from the tweeter.
The less apparent quality is the phase coerence, but it is clearly audible with the voices.
Someone before was saying this tweeter wasn't detailed, but it is detailed.
Now I have some question to the designer:
1)What is exactly the function of the feld around the tweeter?
2)I tried to add an RC circuit until R=4ohm C=2,2uF. Then I reverted to the original crossover because the I think it make worse offaxis performance. Could you show me what changes in FR with/without the RC circuit?
3)I also use those speaker connected to a PA amp to see movies with a group of people,please could you give me some tip to change the values of xover components to make the speaker more suitable to the amp?
4) What do you think of the so called "BBC dip"? Do it or not in designing a speaker?
Thank you for designing this great laudspeaker.
PS
I don't want to bother you with all those questions but I'm studying to do one on my own in the future, a low cost bookshelf just to learn.
I am using 3 solid state amps with the Elsinore and the sound with each is soooo not brite and is very neutral.. In fact the treble is one of the many achievements and audible pleasures of this design. The treble is accurate, controlled and never says "look at me".
I'm using the crossover as shown.
I cant say enough about how good these speakers are. More friends that have stopped in say the same thing..
What SS amplifier do you use? I have an Hafler 9130. Anyway I think with SS amplifier they're on the bright side, but not bright as the snow. With valve amplifier they sound neutral, I have a AMC 2030+ a Vincent SA31 wich is a tube preamplifier.
Anyway it depends on what speaker you're used to listen and room.
yes they are!
Been switching between Pioneer A-27, Bryston B-60 and Accuphase E-202. None of these are bright at all but the Bryston treble is the least desirable. All three amps sound good though.
Preference is for Accuphase by a considerable margin but then it has been overhauled with all new capacitors, biased and cleaned. The sound is wide open and detailed with control.
I experimented with a few low end sources with poor results and felt this were I could really disrupt the sound..
I'll be using a pair of 300bs in the near future. cant wait.
I