The "Elsinore Project" Thread - Page 149 - diyAudio
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Old 8th February 2013, 06:39 AM   #1481
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sweden, Eskilstuna
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
Cant say I follow completely but maybe your saying start with a mounting gap and then one can move it in to touch and out as if prefered..
Correct.
With the TW mounted directly towards the WG there will be no gap at all. Mounted with a wide gasket around the "mounting wall" the TW and the WG will have a gap between them at the inner end of the WG.

This gap can be left totally open and there will then be a "cabinet" in play enclosed by the TW and the WG. Different damping will change the appearance of the TW. You can also add another gasket between the TW and the WG as wide as you like at the inner end of the WG, creating smaller or bigger gap (both in height and diameter of the gasket) as done earlier in this thread.
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Old 10th February 2013, 03:46 PM   #1482
koja is offline koja  Canada
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Default port ID

there seems to be a range of port ODs referenced from 90mm to 100mm, but what is the recommended port internal diameter (ID) for the bass tuning as calculated by joe R.? (which goes with the length of 80mm+-). THX.
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Old 10th February 2013, 04:08 PM   #1483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koja View Post
there seems to be a range of port ODs referenced from 90mm to 100mm, but what is the recommended port internal diameter (ID) for the bass tuning as calculated by joe R.? (which goes with the length of 80mm+-). THX.
These are the recommended lenghts and ID's. You should no go below 82.5mm for ID because the lenght of the port will be too short.

- If ID = 90mm than L = 85mm
- If ID = 87.5mm than L = 80mm
- If ID = 85mm than L = 75mm









Last edited by petefrontiers; 10th February 2013 at 04:22 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 11th February 2013, 08:43 PM   #1484
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I went with 87mm(stacked wood)and believe I remember Joe said his id was that size..
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Old 12th February 2013, 01:42 PM   #1485
JVDM is offline JVDM  Australia
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Hi everyone,

I'm trying to decide on what I hope will be my last speaker project for the next several years. Right now I have it narrowed down to the Elsinores or Troel Gravesens Jenzen Illuminators (Jenzen-Illuminator) using scanspeak drivers. Overall, the cost would seem to be in the same ballpark (2-3K).

I've been trying to track down an objective and dispassionate review of the Elsinores, preferably by someone who hasn't built them. By all accounts, they seem to be serious giant-killers, but it would be nice to see some arms-length reviews.

Can someone point me in the right direction before I bite the bullet either way?

Cheers,
Joel.
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Old 12th February 2013, 03:38 PM   #1486
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Originally Posted by JVDM View Post
Hi everyone,
Can someone point me in the right direction before I bite the bullet either way?

Cheers,
Joel.
Elsinore Loudspeaker

Just Do It......
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Old 12th February 2013, 05:20 PM   #1487
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Default Lost radius on WG

Hi, looking aorund the posts about details for the WG (mostly around #694-718..) I am still having a small trouble. The radius on the outer part of the trumpet is said to be 16mm which looks fine with th measures and lines on the drawing.

The inner curve radius down to the hole does not have a value. The inner diameter is said to be 32mm and there is value 38mm which seem to be the other end (at 45dgr) of the curve. BUT this does not fit. 32 and 38mm will state a radius of 10,24mm which does not fit in the position if the bottom of the hole should be vertical as seen in the picture and match the 45 dgr trumpet.

So either one of those measure are not correct or the inner end of the trumpet is not vertical. Anyone to know from the construction or a real WG? Is this critical.

If we have a vertical end of the trumpet, use a 7,8mm radius on the curve it will fit with a 36,8mm value to the 45dgr part of the trumpet. Would that due?
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File Type: jpg Missing radius.jpg (30.3 KB, 329 views)
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Old 14th February 2013, 09:26 PM   #1488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottr923 View Post
might be somewhat off the current track, but i'm acquiring all the parts for this to start in a couple months. quick question: what exactly does L4 R2 C3 do? is it to quell a resonance at about 60hz? i'm trying wrap my head around that huge coil
The L4-R2-C3 network is there to flatten and linearize the impedance(not the frequency response) in the frequency range around port tuning. This helps achieve Joe's goal of what he call's a "linear current" speaker. What this goal means is that the frequency response would be the same if the Elsinores were driven by a voltage source or a current source. Many tube amps, especially single end zero-feedback designs, have considerable output impedance and can act more like a current source than a voltage source when driving a loudspeaker.

In practice, the L4-R2-C3 will have little if any effect on the sound of the Elsinores when driven with a solid-state amp. If money is tight, you could safely eliminate it until funds are available. But, if you plan to use a tube amp, the network will go a long way in avoiding the tubby, ill-defined bass that often comes with tubes amps driving ported speakers with impedance peaks in the bass range.
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Old 15th February 2013, 12:34 AM   #1489
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thanks so much for the response, i was beginning to feel slighted by the group
that helps greatly with my understanding of the project. can't wait to start making sawdust on these!!
will post pics once it all starts.
Scott
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Old 16th February 2013, 11:28 PM   #1490
sibbeli is offline sibbeli  Sweden
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Hey!

whats up with the port lengt? when i check it in a box calculator program i get a completetely different tuning frequens, not ewen in the same area as 33/34hz

It should then be 23cm long for a 33hz tuning. Whats with that???

On Joes side it says it should be 80mm long and that give a tuning point of 54.16 hz..

Something is really really wrong here..
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