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#1471 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Melbourne
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I guess this helps explain why the imaging of the Elsinores is so precise. I can locate every instrument easily. I still continue to be impressed 16 months after completing them. Thanks Joe.
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#1472 |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2011
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#1473 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sweden, Eskilstuna
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Quote:
I knew it wasnīt a coinsident but I just couldnīt find it in the htread or on your web site. I should have known better to ever think of something in this project not thought about or based on some theory and measurment. Never again - promise! Out project are slowly taking itīs format. We are about to build the cabinets with recessed mid/woofers wich makes the cabinet volume smaller. But to reinforce the baffel/front panel even more we will use 25 mm material instead of the 18mm. That will increase the volume (elements moving forward), but to reinforce the baffel/front panel even even more we will use a 2mm damp mat at the back of it. Back to "normal" exactly. Will produce new drawings.for someone interested to use. Will also not use terminals for the cables out through the back panel as it weakens it (and is a unnecessary cost & contact point). Will go straght out with the four twinned (Look here - amazing result Svalander Audio AB - Flätarskola för ljudintresserade ) cables into an outide "Crossover box", filters according to the latest drawing, bottom plate with feet, epoxy WG etc..... Once again - tnx Joe, Joel ..... for everything! |
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#1474 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Courtice, Ontario
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Quote:
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#1475 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sweden, Eskilstuna
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Have used both plywood and solid wood earlier in different thickness (currently 60mm solid oak in Accutone set up) but i think we will go for 25mm MDF or a glued mix of 12mm MDF + 12mm Chip board (is that the right word?) - to get some mixed resonance. Wood in whole pieces are alive in my opinion..... but beautiful :-)
Last edited by Sharkythefrog; 5th February 2013 at 08:00 PM. |
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#1476 |
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diyAudio Member
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I can ship them to you. I guess shipping would be fairly expensive, but I could get the woofers at a discounted price...
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#1477 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sweden, Eskilstuna
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We could ship them to you from anywhere in the EU but the shipping will be expensive. You will get them most shep in any US state without/with low VAT if you canīt find them in Asia (which sounds strange). Europe Audio would be a good place to look. We will probably order from them for at least 4 pairs of speakers in a short while. They give us (at least - working on more) 10% discount on the shopping cart prices for this level of order. I guess you could also look for using a company VAT number in Asia to get it from EU without VAT.
Go ahead - Just do it! |
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#1478 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sweden, Eskilstuna
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Working on the mold for the WG make me run into things. One about the gap some of the posts prefer. If, I say if, we design the WG in such a way that IF (but only then) the TW is mounted with a distance gasket (blue in picture - only shown as a square, but are going all around the beam directly towards the TW) there will be an opening gap (by the orange arrow) into a small "cabinet" (where the orange C is). This will make it possible to either fill the gap with another gasket OR donīt. If one donīt we have the possibility to play with the little "cabinet" and different fill within it (we are talking small). Anyone with similar experience?
Last edited by Sharkythefrog; 6th February 2013 at 09:19 PM. |
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#1479 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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might be somewhat off the current track, but i'm acquiring all the parts for this to start in a couple months. quick question: what exactly does L4 R2 C3 do? is it to quell a resonance at about 60hz? i'm trying wrap my head around that huge coil
![]() thanks, Scott |
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#1480 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Courtice, Ontario
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