The "Elsinore Project" Thread

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by sibbeli

I think maybe i should try carbonfibre out at first.
I have carbon fibre, a small amount of kevlar and lots of glassfibre available.
Epoxy and poyester do i also have. I think glassfibre is going to be too flexy and wobbly.
Carbonfibre is stiff, really stiff when done the right way,

We need to get the figures for the shrinking of the different materials - says my "lathe-friend" :-)Do you have any figures.....

Still going for Carbon first? I have no idea of the different characteristics for the different plastics. "heavy" and stiff but not to stiff???

Is it possilbe to put color in all of them - if we like them to be f ex black?

[Sharkythefrog]

Hi,
I have earlier good experience from Mundorf caps, and that still the reasonable priced ones (Mcap Supreme). Haven´t compared to the Jantzens frequently promoted in this thread. Anyone?

[petefrontiers]

Originally Posted by Sharkythefrog

Hi,
I have earlier good experience from Mundorf caps, and that still the reasonable priced ones (Mcap Supreme). Haven´t compared to the Jantzens frequently promoted in this thread. Anyone?

I use a Mundorf Supreme 1.8 uF bypassed with a MKP-1837 0.01 uF on mine and I'm very satisfied with the result but I have not heard the Jentzen to compare.

[Joe Rasmussen]

Originally Posted by petefrontiers

I use a Mundorf Supreme 1.8 uF bypassed with a MKP-1837 0.01 uF on mine and I'm very satisfied with the result but I have not heard the Jentzen to compare.

I'd go for the Jantzen Superior Red 1.8uF - and only the RED. The others from Jantzen aren't as good.

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by petefrontiers

I use a Mundorf Supreme 1.8 uF bypassed with a MKP-1837 0.01 uF on mine and I'm very satisfied with the result but I have not heard the Jentzen to compare.

Ok. I have read a little about the theories of having a smaller (and much better quality cap in parallell (By-passed I guess you call it) with the "supposed" one. I have seen a few in this thread done so too. What will the benefit be from Your perspective (petefrontiers)

Originally Posted by Joe Rasmussen

I'd go for the Jantzen Superior Red 1.8uF - and only the RED. The others from Jantzen aren't as good.

OK. Red it is (chaper than many other Jantzens...)

The suggestion in the thread sum up to 2,0uF (Rifa et al) which most of the producers don´t offer. Should we add on a 0,22uF in parallell (or even a 0,22uF + a 0,01uF to acheive what has been said to be heard with a super small cap in place) (Joe)

[Joel Wesseling]

Originally Posted by Sharkythefrog

Would it be possible to descibe in a scetch how the 2-3 different positions of the (non)gap would look like with the current waveguide? As we have located at least one lathe (maybe more) closer than I thought (one of my friends job) that could do the job we might end up with different molds for different sound preferences.... (Off course we are back in the old days - work payment in, not carrots, but Wave guides :-) )

I use the free google sketch up sometimes but for me to make a good representation will be hard..

The drawing is my waveguide now and the tweeter mounting plate mounts flush with the back of the waveguide.. The tweeter mounting plate diameter is slightly smaller than the back shelf diameter of the waveguide..

The projection is 0.1mm from touching the slope on the tweeter plate..

To create one's personal GAP up to say 1.5mm use spacers when mounting the tweeter..

BTW: The sound characteristics with a gap is whithout putty so there is an actual space.. Maybe the vibrations at domes large area are being trapped.

Also something to consider is if the woofers are sunk 4mm.. Mine are sunk so gapping 1.5mm puts the tweeter at 15.5mm from woofers.. If woofers are not sunk then gapping 1.5mm puts the tweeter 19.5mm from the woofers..
So I also be wondering if the others that enjoyed the gap have sunk or not sunk woofers.. Just mentioning this because the design alows for sinking the woofers 4mm and only affects Time Alignment inside 1.6m so that puts the tweeter(no gap) at 14mm behind woofers..


Joel

[petefrontiers]

Originally Posted by Sharkythefrog

Ok. I have read a little about the theories of having a smaller (and much better quality cap in parallell (By-passed I guess you call it) with the "supposed" one. I have seen a few in this thread done so too. What will the benefit be from Your perspective

I took the recipe on the capacitor test done by Tony Gee of humblehomemadehifi,com Humble Homemade Hifi Look at the bottom of the page to see the Vishay MKP1837 review. They cost nothing so I tried them. I've not heard the Mundorf cap without them yet. My pair of Elsinore are only a couple of weeks old so I will wait that the break in period is over before starting to play in the crossover if I feel I need to.

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by petefrontiers

My pair of Elsinore are only a couple of weeks old so I will wait that the break in period is over before starting to play in the crossover if I feel I need to.

Ok. Good point. I just wait and see - or just order 4-5 pairs of Vishays in our current not yet processed order, and play myself...

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling

The projection is 0.1mm from touching the slope on the tweeter plate..

To create one's personal GAP up to say 1.5mm use spacers when mounting the tweeter..
Joel

Ok. So there is almost a perfect match. 0,1 mm is not much, just enough for some glue....

BUT, using spacers will create a little pocket between the wg and the tw, just not only a little gap. Making a wg with some other design of the lower inside part closest to the tw just create a small thin gap but no pocket so that will be something else than using spacers - and possibly a different sound. Hmm i guess i have to test when I finally get my pair going. Thanks for the info

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling

Also something to consider is if the woofers are sunk 4mm.. Mine are sunk so gapping 1.5mm puts the tweeter at 15.5mm from woofers.. If woofers are not sunk then gapping 1.5mm puts the tweeter 19.5mm from the woofers..
So I also be wondering if the others that enjoyed the gap have sunk or not sunk woofers.. Just mentioning this because the design alows for sinking the woofers 4mm and only affects Time Alignment inside 1.6m so that puts the tweeter(no gap) at 14mm behind woofers..
Joel

Something I have missed in all the threads. Differently sunk woofers compared to case, and also compared to differently sunk tweeter. Why sink the woofers more into the case in the first place? Shouldn´t they be aligned with the front ? and the tweeter (incl the wg) measured in phase/time for the correct position behind the woofers?