The "Elsinore Project" Thread

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by Joe Rasmussen

OK, by now I may have caused some confusion.
Cheers, Joe R.

I think as always - NOT!

But I can see no response from more listenings with and without the conjugate link C4/R3/L5 ---- What´s the current (haha) situation Joe & Bolserst???

Sitting with a new drawing to finnish to put up here for all us (Swedish&other) newbies that need THE latest drawing. Also try to include some late comments about quality and choice of components.

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by bolserst

Hello Joe,

Thanks for posting your take on the minor crossover modification I proposed for tpate.
That being said, if folks are trying out the mod, by all means try it with and without retuned conjugate. Depending on your electronics you may find you prefer the retuned conjugate in place.

But I can see no response from more listenings with and without the conjugate link C4/R3/L5 ---- What´s the current (haha) situation Joe & Bolserst???

Sitting with a new drawing to finnish to put up here for all us (Swedish&other) newbies that need THE latest drawing. Also try to include some late comments about quality and choice of components.

[oldies]

I really want to build a pair of Elsinore because:

designer is a qualified man
reviews are positive
enclouser is simple to build and effective
they worth the money

I cant build a pair because:

I live in a poor country in which 2000USD is income of about a year of hardworking


I wish I could build a pair for less than 2000 worthy dollars

[Sharkythefrog]

Put together comments and recommendations throughout the thread into an accurate crossover drawing - including some choices of material. Use and/or comment.

[dondiba]

thank you for posting this drawing,
very useful

[Joel Wesseling]

Nice and organized crossover sheet..

When I had C6,R8,L5 in or out I didn't hear any difference with my amp so left it out.. Thought L5 was .18mh original..

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling

Nice and organized crossover sheet..

When I had C6,R8,L5 in or out I didn't hear any difference with my amp so left it out.. Thought L5 was .18mh original..

Tnx.
I did trow in a question before about those three components. I guess You liked to remove them and JoeR liked them still there but with the 2 new values, 33uF still the same. Haven´t heard from anyone tried comparing without and with the new values.

JoeR - is it about the "current purity" you want them there, or is there a change of sound?

[Sharkythefrog]

Looking at the drawing of the waveguide and reading a vast number of post there seem to be a gap between the inside lower part of the waveguide hole and the element. A gap that partly (or all together in some posts) are filled with gaskets, rubber mass of different kinds.

Now when we are about to produce a mould for at least producing 4for sets of waveguides that are about to be built in Sweden right now, itwould be interesting to hear if there is a slight change that should be done to create "the perfect gap" with the waveguide solid towards the element to create one "solid piece"???

Suggestions anyone? Joel?

(B.t.w we haven´t ordered the elements yet. Hunting for rebates i EU now)

[Joel Wesseling]

The original had a pocket to alow the tweeter to mount to cabinet and waveguide over that.. The gasket thingy was to fill pocket and mount tweeter directly to the waveguide..

As for creating a gap at the vibrating element for a different sonic characteristic it has to be heard to be appreciated and then it becomes personal choice as I thought the gaped sound was very good and not wrong but ended up with no gap.. With no gap there's still a slight gap because of the slope in the tweeter plate face and this gap is filled with putty..

I was thinking about extending the projection and matching the tweeter slope but thought everything has to be perfect otherwise it could end up raised where the two mounting surfaced need to meet.. So putty made more sense if you know what I mean..

The element gaping gives a less rich and detailed controlled treble that has less room effect and gives good off axis listening soundsatge..

No gap is richer with more detail, hence more energy into the room.. Need to set up nearfield position more carefully and trap first reflections.. The farfield is really good when all the energy has distance to propagate..

My 2 cents on the gap

I forgot Joe changed the 3 components.. Must be something to it so have to try it out....

[Sharkythefrog]

Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling

The original had a pocket to alow the tweeter to mount to cabinet and waveguide over that.. The gasket thingy was to fill pocket and mount tweeter directly to the waveguide..

My 2 cents on the gap

Would it be possible to descibe in a scetch how the 2-3 different positions of the (non)gap would look like with the current waveguide? As we have located at least one lathe (maybe more) closer than I thought (one of my friends job) that could do the job we might end up with different molds for different sound preferences.... (Off course we are back in the old days - work payment in, not carrots, but Wave guides :-) )