Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12th January 2012, 08:07 PM   #1061
jdkJake is offline jdkJake  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Seminole, FL
What did you have in mind? Can you sketch it out?

Realize the crossover is designed for a particular cabinet shape as well as volume. You will most likely need to tweak it to account for the shape and width of the baffle.
__________________
-- jk --
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2012, 12:26 AM   #1062
GB123 is offline GB123  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Washington State
Check out post 596 by Renron in the Thor tread. 64799-clarity-seas-thor-kit-60.html As you can see it is only a slight taper. I can't see it making much of a difference, though I could be wrong. The cabinet is much more pleasing to me. Actually, I'm really torn between these two systems, Elsinore,Thor
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2012, 09:44 PM   #1063
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sweden, Eskilstuna
Have a hard time finding all components here in Europe. Have found this site 830875 - Peerless HDS-164NOMEX Nomex diaphragm, 33 mm coil, AL - Europe Audio that looks promising, anyone with experience?

Due to limited selections here & to the ones that have experimented with different types for this crossover - suggestions:
R1 – 3R :
R2 – 6R8 :
R3 – 9R (or 2 x18) :
R10 – 10R :
L1/L3– 2mH DCR 1Rmax :
L2 – 0,33mH DCR 0R5max :
L4 – 18mH DCR 1R6 (or adjust R2) :
C1 – 2,0uF/100V Rifa Evox PPs :
C2 – 33uF/100V Bi-Polar :
C3 – 300uF/100V (3x100) Bi-Polar :
C4 – 33uF/100V Bi-Polar (or Film) :
C5 – 0,68uF ??? :

Slowly slowly getting closer to a project . . . .
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th January 2012, 02:57 AM   #1064
jdkJake is offline jdkJake  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Seminole, FL
Quote:
Originally Posted by GB123 View Post
Check out post 596 by Renron in the Thor tread. 64799-clarity-seas-thor-kit-60.html As you can see it is only a slight taper. I can't see it making much of a difference, though I could be wrong. The cabinet is much more pleasing to me. Actually, I'm really torn between these two systems, Elsinore,Thor
Ah! I see. The curve is at the back. I was not sure where you were going up until that point.

That indeed may be a horse of a different color. While one would suspect there would be little change needed as long as the volume is maintained, I fear I may be too far out of my league to properly answer your question.

I apologize and hope someone with the appropriate experience chimes in.
__________________
-- jk --
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th January 2012, 03:10 AM   #1065
GB123 is offline GB123  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Washington State
Thanks for your interest. Maybe someone has the answer.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th January 2012, 03:49 AM   #1066
gtvben is offline gtvben  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Rockhampton, Queensland
Hi GB123. I am in the same boat re Elsinore vs Thor(small, fat or large variants) Difficult to choose.The Esinore's are tempting due to ease of building and high efficiency.... Any one out there have experience of listening to both?
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th January 2012, 06:39 PM   #1067
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Champaign, Illinois
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharkythefrog View Post
Have a hard time finding all components here in Europe. Have found this site 830875 - Peerless HDS-164NOMEX Nomex diaphragm, 33 mm coil, AL - Europe Audio that looks promising, anyone with experience?

Due to limited selections here & to the ones that have experimented with different types for this crossover - suggestions:
R1 – 3R :
R2 – 6R8 :
R3 – 9R (or 2 x18) :
R10 – 10R :
L1/L3– 2mH DCR 1Rmax :
L2 – 0,33mH DCR 0R5max :
L4 – 18mH DCR 1R6 (or adjust R2) :
C1 – 2,0uF/100V Rifa Evox PPs :
C2 – 33uF/100V Bi-Polar :
C3 – 300uF/100V (3x100) Bi-Polar :
C4 – 33uF/100V Bi-Polar (or Film) :
C5 – 0,68uF ??? :

Slowly slowly getting closer to a project . . . .
Is there a question, other than buyer experience with your proposed source, or is this just a general update?
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th January 2012, 06:56 PM   #1068
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sweden, Eskilstuna
Quote:
Originally Posted by Francois G View Post
Is there a question, other than buyer experience with your proposed source, or is this just a general update?
It΄s actually a question about quality and choice of material. Sorry for being so unclear. This is what I have found in this thread so far but like to have more input if possible:
______________________________________________

R1 – 3R : High Qulity
R2 – 6R8 :
R3 – 9R (or 2 x18) :
R10 – 10R :

L1 – 2mH DCR 1Rmax : High Qulity 14ga foil inductors
L2 – 0,33mH DCR 0R5max : High Qulity 14ga foil inductors
L3 – 2mH DCR 1Rmax :
L4 – 18mH DCR 1R6 (or adjust R2) : iron core
L5 – 0,18mH DCR 0R3mx

C1 – 2,0uF/100V Rifa Evox PPs : High Qulity , Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Cap. Sonicap 2.0uf, 200V lboth with great base sound
C2 – 33uF/100V Bi-Polar :
C3 – 300uF/100V (3x100) Bi-Polar :
C4 – 33uF/100V Bi-Polar (or Film) :
C5 – 0,68uF ??? :
#750~. The largest inductor I use 2 x 9mH in series, these do not have to be air cored, but the rest should be. Cheers, Joe R.
______________________________________________

But there might be more that I have missed.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th January 2012, 08:39 PM   #1069
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by GB123 View Post
I've read the entire thread and remember someone asking about a set of curved cabinets, but don't remember if their was an answer. I too would like to build a set with curved sides. I know the cabinet was designed for ease of build, but woodworking is my hobby, so I'm willing to tackle this. I would build it deeper to compensate for the loss of volume. I don't for see a need to adjust the crossover for this, but I could be wrong. Any ideas on this?
Hi.
Have seen this question come up in a number of other builds that i'm looking at. If you are keeping the same baffle and maintaining speaker volume then no change is required.
I think the critical dimensions that need to be maintained are the baffle width and the driver spacing. Possibly also relative position to the top of the baffle (?) but that is getting into details you'd want the designer or other expert to comment on.
hope that helps.

PS - nice build you linked to.
Lewis
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th January 2012, 02:49 AM   #1070
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Courtice, Ontario
Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonted View Post
Did some more work on the hamlets today.
How are the hamlets progressing?
Have you seen a box with waveguides yet?
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Proac 2.5 clone" or "Elsinore project" Joel Wesseling Multi-Way 10 26th May 2011 05:51 AM
A thread to post your "project files" critofur Multi-Way 10 21st March 2008 12:50 PM
"compact loudspeaker factory visit from "magico mini" thread Nanook Multi-Way 2 4th January 2008 07:30 AM
The "Really simple and cheap speaker designs for the newbie!" thread. Spasticteapot Multi-Way 5 19th March 2006 04:16 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:37 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2