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Old 5th February 2008, 05:36 AM   #91
ttan98 is offline ttan98  Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by Joe Rasmussen


The are in series, which is a bit unusual but deliberate in the case. The two top drivers, the one above the Tweeter and the one immediately below is in series. Like the bottom two drivers are in series.

Joe R.
Joe,

I have a similar set of commercial speakers with similar config as yours, ie MTMWW, MM and WW are the same model. I like to parallel the MM and also separately the WW to get more SPL. Would it work equally well, obviously I have to retune the x-over myself.

Any pit falls to avoid ? Please elaborate, thanks.
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Old 5th February 2008, 06:23 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttan98


Joe,

I have a similar set of commercial speakers with similar config as yours, ie MTMWW, MM and WW are the same model. I like to parallel the MM and also separately the WW to get more SPL. Would it work equally well, obviously I have to retune the x-over myself.

Any pit falls to avoid ? Please elaborate, thanks.
Pitfalls? How about a (potentially) 2 Ohm speaker system? How do you intend compensating for diffraction loss?

As it is, the current series/parallel configuration of the Elsinores give you a nominal 8 Ohm load. If you parallel first before series, then you'd have to do a series crossover (Elsinores uses parallel crossover). I am afraid you are on your own and whatever you end up with, they won't be an Elsinore speaker.

Joe R.
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Old 5th February 2008, 06:41 AM   #93
ttan98 is offline ttan98  Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by Joe Rasmussen


Pitfalls? How about a (potentially) 2 Ohm speaker system? How do you intend compensating for diffraction loss?

As it is, the current series/parallel configuration of the Elsinores give you a nominal 8 Ohm load. If you parallel first before series, then you'd have to do a series crossover (Elsinores uses parallel crossover). I am afraid you are on your own and whatever you end up with, they won't be an Elsinore speaker.

Joe R.

I can always go active, also no longer Elsinores....

Just a thought.

thanks for your time...
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Old 16th February 2008, 08:45 PM   #94
Meataxe is offline Meataxe  New Zealand
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Rob323, nice boxes - did you rebate (flush mount) the mid/bass drivers?

Joe I note you don't recommend this, any comments?

A very good looking project I look forward to more discussion about the centre channel!
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Old 17th February 2008, 10:59 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally posted by Meataxe

Rob323, nice boxes - did you rebate (flush mount) the mid/bass drivers?

Joe I note you don't recommend this, any comments?

A very good looking project I look forward to more discussion about the centre channel!

Yes, I am aware he did that. If you can flush mount them, then I won't object - the slight change in relative to Tweeter offset is such that they will focus at slightly greater than 1.6M I did the published the Step Response - so it is actually still with +/- 2.5mm acceptable range. There is also a very slight diffraction effect difference, but is so small as to be inconsequential.

The real reason I did not specify flush mount is that I didn't want discourage those who would have difficulty, like me. Not flush mounting hides a multitude of sins, the edge of the hole is hidden. But I see Rob knew how to do a good job of it.

A less than perfect flush mounting of the Tweeter is also nicely hidden by the felt. This should definitely be flush or the felt won't fit properly.

Re the Centre Channel - I don't need one for myself (yet) but if somebody will do the box, then we could go ahead with it. I am in the South-West of Sydney - so anybody near here wants a Centre Channel speaker (that can also be used vertically in multi-channel setups)? I'll do the rest. The crossover shown should be OK but it is provisional.

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Old 17th February 2008, 09:53 PM   #96
rob323 is offline rob323  Australia
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When it came to flush mounting the Peerless drivers, instead of rebating the front baffle by 3mm (which would have changed the time alignment), I glued a 3mm sheet of mdf to the front baffle and increased the length of the sides by the same. This way, the time alignment was preserved.
Although cutting out 16 little fillets to glue in due to the shape of the Peerless drivers was a real pain, but it works - sort of.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 17th February 2008, 11:45 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally posted by rob323

When it came to flush mounting the Peerless drivers, instead of rebating the front baffle by 3mm (which would have changed the time alignment), I glued a 3mm sheet of mdf...

Although cutting out 16 little fillets to glue in due to the shape of the Peerless drivers was a real pain, but it works - sort of.

Hey Rob, that was clever. And I thought I was presenting a design that devoid of any difficulty in tricky building, and then you.... invent one!

Nevertheless, well done.

Joe R.
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Old 18th February 2008, 02:51 AM   #98
Meataxe is offline Meataxe  New Zealand
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Ahhh all those little tricks you learn along the way!

So I've satisfied myself about the enclosures (like the KISS principle!) and the drivers - but the electronics are another story.

Can anyone volunteer a couple of pictures of their x-overs? Not sure I can come to grips with 10 speaker cables a side!

Any recommendations for x-over components, I am in the middle of surfing Madisound and there is a heck of a selection!

Thanks in advance for the help
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Old 18th February 2008, 03:07 PM   #99
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by Meataxe

Any recommendations for x-over components, I am in the middle of surfing Madisound and there is a heck of a selection!

Thanks in advance for the help
Good xo components here at reasonable prices.
http://speakerbug.com.au/shop/

The standard M-Cap sold by Soundlabs are extremely good and not much more expensive than the Jaycar jobs.
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/M...dorf+MCap.html
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Old 18th February 2008, 08:47 PM   #100
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Rabbitz,

Thanks for the link. I will be interested in getting some MOX resistors and possible Jantzen caps.

Have you actually bought items from them before? The Website has no address, no telephone number, no "about us", basically nothing except part and price lists and possibly a payment system, ... I would not know who I would be paying to.

Regards,
Bill
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