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Old 9th January 2003, 08:03 AM   #11
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To find leaks in cabinets I normally stick a table lamp inside the cabinet then turn the lights in the room off - then you can see how bad the leaks are as well as where they are.
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Old 9th January 2003, 08:19 AM   #12
SvErD is offline SvErD  Norway
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If you carefully push the cone in and release it, it should return very slowly if the enclosure is tight.
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Old 9th January 2003, 08:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
If you carefully push the cone in and release it, it should return very slowly if the enclosure is tight. [/B]

If the enclosure is absolutely tight, shouldn't the cone return immediately??
If, however, you do have leak, it should return very slowly, provided you push it in and hold it for -say 10 seconds before releasing...????
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Old 9th January 2003, 09:10 AM   #14
SvErD is offline SvErD  Norway
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I just tried, it did come out quickly initially and then very slow for the last 2-3mm.
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Old 9th January 2003, 09:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by viper073
Well I gotta admit I would’ve never guessed the wet lips method!
This method is very effective when I mend bicycle tires (or tubes to be more precise)!
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Old 9th January 2003, 09:29 AM   #16
AuroraB is offline AuroraB  Norway
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To SVeRD

That should indicate that you do have a leak.
If your cabinet is absolutely tight, you will only compress the air, and the cone will return to zero immediately.
If there is a leak, - by pushing and holding, some air will leak out. When you release the push, the diaphragm support will try to return to zero by the suspension forces, thus creating an under pressure inside, which will slowly be corrected by a small leak, - cone will travel almost to zero rest imediately, but slowly for the last few mm, depending on the size of the leakage,- and the sze of you diaphragm and box..
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Old 9th January 2003, 10:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by SvErD
I just tried, it did come out quickly initially and then very slow for the last 2-3mm.
You have a leak.. I should know... my 10inch sub does the same thing.. it has a leak, but I couldn't be bothered fixing it.. lol
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Old 9th January 2003, 11:29 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by AuroraB


That should indicate that you do have a leak.
If your cabinet is absolutely tight, you will only compress the air, and the cone will return to zero immediately.
This will also happen if you have bad leaks (think about a driver out in free air)- that's why it's not really a reliable way to test. Use lips, smoke, stethoscope, or other direct methods.
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Old 9th January 2003, 11:58 AM   #19
AuroraB is offline AuroraB  Norway
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I absolutely second that...

IMO- the only way is to trust your wood working skills, or to make proper measurements on elements and the final system Q to verify that the target has been reached.
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Old 9th January 2003, 12:50 PM   #20
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Hold on folks,

Be careful with making your box too airtight. Air is a non-linear medium. When the cone goes inside it is pressing more air out of the leaks of the box than when is goes out and sucking air back in. This is in fact a rectifying effect. When you put a sine of say 30Hz and with sufficient amplitude on your box, an under pressure will built up in the box pulling the cone steady inwards. This effect is the strongest in relatively small closed boxes. Luckily music is not of pure sinuses so the effect is not that harmful.

Leakage only lowers the total Q of the box. In some occasions this can be even of advantage. One of the nasty things of leaks is the “breathing” sound or noise they can generate.

The leakage itself has a time constant. I have found that this time constant must be shorter than the repetition time of the bas notes reproduced to avoid the rectifying effect. A time constant of app. 0.1 sec is a good compromise without lowering the Q of the box much. But it is only of relevance if you are playing at high levels.
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