|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
|
I could really use some advice here. I am restoring a set of ESS speakers, a part of which are four 2-way satellites. Each satellite has the crossover components as pictured below. After 30 years plus, I figure the caps should be replaced and any other parts that warrant proactive replacement. I can solder just fine and these parts are super easy to access and it seems a simple layout. However, I have virtually no experience in selecting proper parts with respect to brand name, values, etc. I am open to any and all suggestions. I am not opposed to making improvements over the parts originally used if modern parts are more advanced, but I don’t really want to change the overall character of the speakers, so to speak. Since the price of these speakers has been long since “amortized”, I am not opposed to paying good money for top quality parts. I will note the values as printed on the components in the picture and I would be obliged for specific suggestions – brand, type, values etc. for each to use as replacements. THANKS!
Right to left Black Cap: 1068-7308; 12-65 CXR; 200-40AC-B; 200uF-40V AC Orange Cap: 227P; 3.5 plus/minus 10% - 100CD; 1DF-M3.5 Resistor: 4ohm 10W Inductor – Propose to simply reuse this The wiring is all solid-core of what looks like some silver colored alloy |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: USA, MN
|
From the camera angle, it looks to me like both caps are film caps, which don't have age issues and would not need replacing. If the black cap actually is an electrolytic, you should replace it with an equal value nonpolar cap, or a film cap.
__________________
Our species needs, and deserves, a citizenry with minds wide awake and a basic understanding of how the world works. --Carl Sagan Science is a way of thinking much more than it is a body of knowledge. --Carl Sagan |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
|
Thanks.The black cap I see now does not show the end. The cap is 2 5/8" long and an inch in diameter. Looks to be filled with light maroon plastic. So, I did not think it was an electrolytic. OTOH, the film caps I've seen of similar vaule are about the size of a toilet paper roll core, so I am not sure.
I know that you meant these caps may not need to be replaced in that thier type will last for a long time. I wonder what quality these are in comparison to what one can by today (some VERY pricy). Learned along time ago that not only is old not always bad, but is often better. |
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Michigan
|
There are a lot of opinions about what caps sound better than other caps. If those are film caps in your photo, they are probably mylar or polyester. Either would be considered run-of-the-mill by most with mylar getting a few more nods. Polypropylene is probably the most popular replacement choice. The various types (metal film, metalized, foil, etc) and sizes are available from many online sources and probably a number of shops in the bay area as well (North Creek Audio, Walnut Creek comes to mind, they would be considered on high end side).
You can try a search of the forum but you'll probaly find 100 different threads on the subject.
__________________
Rodd Yamashita |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Custom Title
diyAudio Member
|
There are a number of capacitor listening tests out there, there are no clear winners. I'm fond of Cardas caps, if that means anything. Duelund are also excellent. Neither are priced within the atmosphere, and neither are available in large (10uF+) values. Audience Auricaps are popular.
<edit> And of course that only answers part of your question.... if I were you, I'd probably leave well enough alone. Hard to say if the DCR of the choke would be better lower, and capacitors are a headache unto themselves, with few high quality options being available for any reasonable price. The caps appear to both be film types, and the coils, despite the low guage, are not of poor quality. Jantzen 18 awg. aircores might be an upgrade, without throwing out the baby with the bathwater.
__________________
I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Modest expense REAL subwoofer.. | ScottG | Subwoofers | 2 | 7th April 2007 07:30 PM |
| WTB in Oz: modest $ midrangers/ midwoofer (c. 120 - 2400 Hz) | rick57 | Swap Meet | 4 | 9th March 2007 11:50 PM |
| Which modest $ FR setups play drumkit really well? | freddi | Full Range | 2 | 19th November 2006 01:32 PM |
| First project. Sealed modest Sub. | ShockValue | Subwoofers | 3 | 18th January 2005 12:13 AM |
| Modest IGBT SE project | pjacobi | Solid State | 0 | 1st February 2004 10:57 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.08962 seconds (73.88% PHP - 26.12% MySQL) with 11 queries |