Argos Tapered Pipe ?s

spudfrog · 4th February 2007, 08:02 AM

Hello all. This will be my first venture into DIY home theater audio. I've done all of my car audio myself and have built several sub boxes out of wood and fiberglass. With what little researching I've done, the number of available drivers is a little daunting. I decided to go with something tried and tested, and I found Andy's tapered pipe via PE (and I fell in love). I searched and could find little on these at all. They will hopefully be replacing my Bose 301 III speakers on the front channels of a Sony 5.1 receiver. This will eventually serve as my progress log, but I have a few questions before collecting components. Hopefully Andy himself can shed some light onto them.

I was originally going to build these out of MDF, but I may decide to use actual wood instead. What would be a proper wood for HT use? (acousticall and visually) Many car audio people have started using Birch ply for wieght but I would like to use something more asthetically pleasing. I've worked with cypress on furniture in the past.

I'm sure the drivers listed with the plans fit both the enclosure and the crossover, but at close the $200 for drivers alone would put uneeded stress on my wallet atm, and I noticed that "similar drivers" would work as well. Which T/S parameters should I be taking into consideration for similarity? And would the lower quality of cheaper drivers really not make it worth waiting to get the more expensive ones?

And finally, I noticed the images linked in the document for the plans for these speakers are all down. I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on this problem, or point me in the right direction.

Well I apologive for the novella I've just created, but I like to prepare as much as possible when beginning new ventures. Thanks for any help and hopefully this forum will help me as much as others have.

Andy G · 4th February 2007, 11:22 AM

The pipes were tuned using the Vifa P17WJ. The only other drivers I have used are the Peerless 850122, and the Seas T17RE
The Seas P17REX should also work.

All of these drivers are polyprop drivers and have very smooth roll-off and response and similar (sort of) Vas, Fs, and Qts.

I cannot vouch for any other drivers in the Pipes. Cheaper drivers may not have the same roll-off characteristics, which would mean a more complicated cross-over. They may also not sound as smooth as the drivers mentioned do inthe pipes.

Sorry, I can't point you to any particular cheaper drivers.

Andy_G aka Argos

spudfrog · 5th February 2007, 06:37 AM

How about the images in the plans for the for the pipes? I had sent an email but I'm sure having a publicly listed address leads to huge amounts of spam. I was hoping to look for wood today, but I can't get any of the dimensions from just the text of the document.

ryan

Andy G · 5th February 2007, 06:56 AM

Hi Ryan,
I did send a set of plans via email on 3rd Feb my time. If you didn't get them, email me again.

I don't know why the web files won't work for you, no problem I can find at my end (doesn't mean there isn't one !!). Sorry.

Best Wishes,
Andy G

ps.. nearly every pair I made used 18mm mdf (sometimes covered with 3mm faced veneer or iron on veneer). The pair i made with cheap 18mm pine ply had some resonance problems.

Andy G · 5th February 2007, 08:17 PM

Ryan,

I have just re-sent the files via email.

Hope they arrive this time.

AG

Andy G · 5th February 2007, 09:21 PM

further on materials.

I can't comment on birch ply (we don't grow birch down here), but a mate made some using a hardwood ply which worked rather well. the ones I made using soft radiata ply resonated and were a nuisance to fix, requiring front to back braces at regular intervals, a real PITA !!

There are some pics of tapered pipes here.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~grad...peredpipes.htm
the hardwood ones are 3rd from right, next to Dave's

spudfrog · 6th February 2007, 02:41 AM

Well I'm stumped. I'm going to wait another day but sofar nothing's shown up. I have a gmail address with the same name, and my school adress, resweeneatunodotedu . Sorry about all this trouble. Maybe I harbor electrical gremlins of some sort.

Andy G · 6th February 2007, 03:28 AM

Are you actually getting the emails?

try this old pdf. text has updated in the .doc

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~grad...pipe_plans.pdf

spudfrog · 6th February 2007, 04:45 AM

Awesome, thank you very much.
2nd try email finally went through about 10 minutes ago. I guess it's just the distance, maybe a problem with yahoo.

This looks like it'll prove to be quite a project. Luckily by the time it's done the I'll have had a chance to get funds ready for the drivers.

I'll probably be going with a cabinet-grade birch or oak ply, maybe a solid hardwood if my local lumber yard has it cheap enough.

I'm sure I'll have specific questions at some points throughout the build, so I really appreciate the help you've given sofar.

Thanks again.

Ryan

Andy G · 6th February 2007, 05:23 AM

Dave's build on PE showcase is pretty good, gives some good hints.

If you get stuck , email me. !

4th February 2007, 08:02 AM	#1
spudfrog diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Nola	Argos Tapered Pipe ?s Hello all. This will be my first venture into DIY home theater audio. I've done all of my car audio myself and have built several sub boxes out of wood and fiberglass. With what little researching I've done, the number of available drivers is a little daunting. I decided to go with something tried and tested, and I found Andy's tapered pipe via PE (and I fell in love). I searched and could find little on these at all. They will hopefully be replacing my Bose 301 III speakers on the front channels of a Sony 5.1 receiver. This will eventually serve as my progress log, but I have a few questions before collecting components. Hopefully Andy himself can shed some light onto them. I was originally going to build these out of MDF, but I may decide to use actual wood instead. What would be a proper wood for HT use? (acousticall and visually) Many car audio people have started using Birch ply for wieght but I would like to use something more asthetically pleasing. I've worked with cypress on furniture in the past. I'm sure the drivers listed with the plans fit both the enclosure and the crossover, but at close the $200 for drivers alone would put uneeded stress on my wallet atm, and I noticed that "similar drivers" would work as well. Which T/S parameters should I be taking into consideration for similarity? And would the lower quality of cheaper drivers really not make it worth waiting to get the more expensive ones? And finally, I noticed the images linked in the document for the plans for these speakers are all down. I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on this problem, or point me in the right direction. Well I apologive for the novella I've just created, but I like to prepare as much as possible when beginning new ventures. Thanks for any help and hopefully this forum will help me as much as others have.

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4th February 2007, 11:22 AM	#2
Andy G diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Newcastle, Australia	The pipes were tuned using the Vifa P17WJ. The only other drivers I have used are the Peerless 850122, and the Seas T17RE The Seas P17REX should also work. All of these drivers are polyprop drivers and have very smooth roll-off and response and similar (sort of) Vas, Fs, and Qts. I cannot vouch for any other drivers in the Pipes. Cheaper drivers may not have the same roll-off characteristics, which would mean a more complicated cross-over. They may also not sound as smooth as the drivers mentioned do inthe pipes. Sorry, I can't point you to any particular cheaper drivers. Andy_G aka Argos

5th February 2007, 06:37 AM	#3
spudfrog diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Nola	How about the images in the plans for the for the pipes? I had sent an email but I'm sure having a publicly listed address leads to huge amounts of spam. I was hoping to look for wood today, but I can't get any of the dimensions from just the text of the document. ryan

5th February 2007, 06:56 AM	#4
Andy G diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Newcastle, Australia	Hi Ryan, I did send a set of plans via email on 3rd Feb my time. If you didn't get them, email me again. I don't know why the web files won't work for you, no problem I can find at my end (doesn't mean there isn't one !!). Sorry. Best Wishes, Andy G ps.. nearly every pair I made used 18mm mdf (sometimes covered with 3mm faced veneer or iron on veneer). The pair i made with cheap 18mm pine ply had some resonance problems.

5th February 2007, 08:17 PM	#5
Andy G diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Newcastle, Australia	Ryan, I have just re-sent the files via email. Hope they arrive this time. AG

5th February 2007, 09:21 PM	#6
Andy G diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Newcastle, Australia	further on materials. I can't comment on birch ply (we don't grow birch down here), but a mate made some using a hardwood ply which worked rather well. the ones I made using soft radiata ply resonated and were a nuisance to fix, requiring front to back braces at regular intervals, a real PITA !! There are some pics of tapered pipes here. http://members.optusnet.com.au/~grad...peredpipes.htm the hardwood ones are 3rd from right, next to Dave's

6th February 2007, 02:41 AM	#7
spudfrog diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Nola	Well I'm stumped. I'm going to wait another day but sofar nothing's shown up. I have a gmail address with the same name, and my school adress, resweeneatunodotedu . Sorry about all this trouble. Maybe I harbor electrical gremlins of some sort.

6th February 2007, 03:28 AM	#8
Andy G diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Newcastle, Australia	Are you actually getting the emails? try this old pdf. text has updated in the .doc http://members.optusnet.com.au/~grad...pipe_plans.pdf

6th February 2007, 04:45 AM	#9
spudfrog diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Nola	Awesome, thank you very much. 2nd try email finally went through about 10 minutes ago. I guess it's just the distance, maybe a problem with yahoo. This looks like it'll prove to be quite a project. Luckily by the time it's done the I'll have had a chance to get funds ready for the drivers. I'll probably be going with a cabinet-grade birch or oak ply, maybe a solid hardwood if my local lumber yard has it cheap enough. I'm sure I'll have specific questions at some points throughout the build, so I really appreciate the help you've given sofar. Thanks again. Ryan

6th February 2007, 05:23 AM	#10
Andy G diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Newcastle, Australia	Dave's build on PE showcase is pretty good, gives some good hints. If you get stuck , email me. !

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