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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hi.
as soon as i'm done with my current SW project, im going to build a pair of speakers for myself. I want it to deliver good quality sound for low cost. (don't we all?:P) So, therefore it's logical to pick out drivers that has a reputation of giving MUCH for the money. after reading tons of post in a lots of different forums (doing my homework good), i've found three drivers that's supposed to have a great value, and that i can get the hands on in norway. the drivers are Silverflute W17RC38-S as bass, Tangband W4-657SC and the Hivi K1. http://www.madisound.com/silverflute.html http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w4-657sc.htm http://www.swanspeaker.com/product/htm/view.asp?id=30 http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/28-847s.htm I've found out that the XO will be something like LR2(?) @ 2-300hz between woofer and mid, and LR4 @ 2,2khz between mid and tweeter. an alternative could be LR2 @ 3kHz. and then add BFC to the mid. An alternative to the K1 could be Tb 28-847S, then it would be easier the find an already designed crossover for that one. The box could be ca 13-16litres tuned to ca 54hz as recommended by the manufacturer. but would it hurt if i made it a bit bigger? like 20litres tuned to 50hz? gives a pretty good result in bassbox pro. (i want floorstanding speakers). i would be very thankful for thoughs and comments on my idea Øyvind. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Why make a 3-way and still have no bass
What are your reasons for this design I bet you can make a much better 2-way with the 8" Silverflute I gues you know the designs from Troels and Zaph If you really insist on your own desig, I would suggest 8" silverflute and one of the better mid/fullrange from TB, C/O would be 500-800hz and 5-10khz |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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the ting is that i've already got a pair of those Tb w4, and it's supposed to be a good speaker, but doesnt go low enough at higher spl's. And i've heard that the w4 plays much better in the mid-range than silverflute. The respnse graph doesnt look too good above 1khz on the 8", wouldn't that be too low for almost any tweeter?
since i will cross the speakers over to a SW at 100hz, i thing that the 6 1/2" will be sufficient. do you think the SF 6 1/2" could play with equal sound quality compared to the Tb w4 in the midrange? i've looked at the design at troels and zaph, and most of them are either too expensive, or i can't get the hand of the right drivers in norway. otherwise i would definatly use dayton! Thanks for your reply i will rethink my project and look for other opportunities. it's nice to have some experienced people to get advice from when planning such a project
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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You didnt say anything about using subs, or that you have the TB allready
I guess you are right about the silverflute 6", not being too nice in upper register - allthough 4 ohm version seem ok Silverflute 8" - I was looking at either the 4 ohm or "S" (shielded), which appear to measure better Nothing wrong with trying it, but if you want it loud I think the 8" will do better - theres a lot of energi in the midbass region |
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#5 |
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RIP
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: C'ville VA, USA
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You could copy Zaph's Silver Flute/Vifa design and be safe, or you could make a 2-way really mini monitor with the TB, with a LR4 high pass for the TB. I don't see the use in complicating things with a three-way design.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
No im sorry, i didn't mention it before. I think i'll go for it, the worst thing that can happen is that i'll have to do a lot of work with the filter tuning, but i got plenty of time, and i can learn alot from it. I think i'll try with the 8". thanks for the tip ![]() zaph's silverflute speaker is too small, and can probably not play too loud. but i have considered it. same thing with the 2-way (wich i made a pair of recently, worked nice, but not for my use). the point in make it a three-way is to get the best of all three drivers. since i already got the w4's, then why not ![]() thanks for reply's people! any other comments or tips? |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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good good
thanks!then i'll use the 8" in a 25L box tuned to 58hz. F3 = 55. i probably could use a 1st order between the mid and bass, but due to the mid's limited Xmax, that will probably limit the speakers spl. so i'll first try with LR2 @ 250hz
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Now i've designed a XO that might be a good place to start, theres very many components involved, but i think thats the only way. I haven't included the BSC yet, because im not sure how many db i have to attenuate, i think 6db will be to much in reality. Maybe i'll just wait and see how much is needed.
it's 2nd order xo all the way, high xo at 3000 and low xo at 300. with a zobel on the mid and 1.6db attenuation on tweeter and bass. R3, L3, R5, L6 and R8 represents the speaker. i figured that the tweeters inductanse is so small its got nothing to say on the xo. Im a little confused on one thing.. when i have used a zobel filter, then the impedance should be flat.. but will the nominal impedance be equal to "Re" then? any comments on this filter? does it look like it could work? at least as a starting point? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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here's the simulated graph
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