Adding drivers

howard99 · 5th January 2007, 09:57 PM

Hi all, I am pretty new to this but I have built a ported box with a hartley dome tweeter, eton hex mid and 6.5" hartley woofer. I would like to plug the port and add something, like 1 hartley 10" per side or one 24" hartley. Any thoughts on adding 10's vs a 24?

My local shop leans toward adding the 24", I am leaning to the 10's. Of course they have been building speakers and electronics for thirty years and my first project turned out so good I was amazed. Thanks

Also any thoughts about a passive vs active crossover?

Tenson · 5th January 2007, 10:10 PM

What size is the box? Adding more drivers requires more volume in the box for it to work properly.

If you built an active xover you could boost the low frequencies and get more out of a smaller box.

Cal Weldon · 5th January 2007, 10:19 PM

Hi,

As Tenson mentioned, you don't just go adding a woofer to an existing box.

I would leave well enough alone and use a separate woofer with a plate amp. How large is your room? That will determine how large of a woofer to use.

howard99 · 5th January 2007, 10:44 PM

If I was going to keep all the drivers in one box I would have to build a new one. There isn't room to add anything else. The room right now is 10x16. I have a hafler amp that i was planning to use for either woofer plans. I was planning on a box for the 10's at about 8 cu ft. For the 24 hartlery has a box they use with no back that is 30x30x20. It could be a table also. Thanks guys

Happy boxing day!

Cal Weldon · 5th January 2007, 10:47 PM

You may or may not wish to plug the ports but it may help if you put a cap on the mains to cut off a little of the low end. This will help the power handling and reduce driver interaction. ie: you don't really want two different drivers reproducing the same frequencies.

howard99 · 5th January 2007, 10:49 PM

It has been recommended to me to use at least a 15" like a Dayton becase that size would be the right proportion for what i already have.

Cal Weldon · 5th January 2007, 10:51 PM

A 15" is more than enough for a room that size.

howard99 · 5th January 2007, 10:53 PM

Thanks Cal i probably will plug the ports, that's one of the things I don't care for now that boom from the port. I am aiming to have it be much tighter.

tinitus · 5th January 2007, 11:23 PM

Sounds like the 24" is intended as dipole with EQ

that will give you thight bass

The shop could maybe offer a demonstration, now its lokal

What does the 24" cost

howard99 · 5th January 2007, 11:32 PM

24" hartley is around 1150. They also make an 18" it's about 60 less. Then to the 10 at about 600.

5th January 2007, 09:57 PM	#1
howard99 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	Adding drivers Hi all, I am pretty new to this but I have built a ported box with a hartley dome tweeter, eton hex mid and 6.5" hartley woofer. I would like to plug the port and add something, like 1 hartley 10" per side or one 24" hartley. Any thoughts on adding 10's vs a 24? My local shop leans toward adding the 24", I am leaning to the 10's. Of course they have been building speakers and electronics for thirty years and my first project turned out so good I was amazed. Thanks Also any thoughts about a passive vs active crossover?

5th January 2007, 10:19 PM	#3
Cal Weldon Speakerholic diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: British Columbia	Hi, As Tenson mentioned, you don't just go adding a woofer to an existing box. I would leave well enough alone and use a separate woofer with a plate amp. How large is your room? That will determine how large of a woofer to use. __________________ Next stop: Margaritaville Some of Cal's stuff \| Cal Weldon Consulting

5th January 2007, 10:47 PM	#5
Cal Weldon Speakerholic diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: British Columbia	You may or may not wish to plug the ports but it may help if you put a cap on the mains to cut off a little of the low end. This will help the power handling and reduce driver interaction. ie: you don't really want two different drivers reproducing the same frequencies. __________________ Next stop: Margaritaville Some of Cal's stuff \| Cal Weldon Consulting

5th January 2007, 10:51 PM	#7
Cal Weldon Speakerholic diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: British Columbia	A 15" is more than enough for a room that size. __________________ Next stop: Margaritaville Some of Cal's stuff \| Cal Weldon Consulting

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5th January 2007, 10:10 PM	#2
Tenson diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Kent	What size is the box? Adding more drivers requires more volume in the box for it to work properly. If you built an active xover you could boost the low frequencies and get more out of a smaller box.

5th January 2007, 10:44 PM	#4
howard99 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	If I was going to keep all the drivers in one box I would have to build a new one. There isn't room to add anything else. The room right now is 10x16. I have a hafler amp that i was planning to use for either woofer plans. I was planning on a box for the 10's at about 8 cu ft. For the 24 hartlery has a box they use with no back that is 30x30x20. It could be a table also. Thanks guys Happy boxing day!

5th January 2007, 10:49 PM	#6
howard99 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	It has been recommended to me to use at least a 15" like a Dayton becase that size would be the right proportion for what i already have.

5th January 2007, 10:53 PM	#8
howard99 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	Thanks Cal i probably will plug the ports, that's one of the things I don't care for now that boom from the port. I am aiming to have it be much tighter.

5th January 2007, 11:23 PM	#9
tinitus diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005	Sounds like the 24" is intended as dipole with EQ that will give you thight bass The shop could maybe offer a demonstration, now its lokal What does the 24" cost

5th January 2007, 11:32 PM	#10
howard99 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	24" hartley is around 1150. They also make an 18" it's about 60 less. Then to the 10 at about 600.

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