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#181 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Winter must have been harsh this year, first the table saw fence and now one of the routers:
The depth adjust had got jammed(probably from the winter months), I did manage to free it up but it subsequently fell to apart and I can't get it to fit back together properly Made a start now and will post a photo's tomorrow. |
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#182 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Give Thunau's Frequency Allocator ago. It was the best overall solution I found for the PCXO ie. easy to use, sounds great and I had no hardware or glitching issues including drop outs and underruns. Delay was still a problem though but if you use just the IIR filter section then delay is down to 10ms and worked perfectly well with even video and gaming. Another good one was Acourate but the learning curve is probably the worst of all the methods I've tried, its the type of program that does get easier the more you use it. Extremely powerful though, perhaps *the* most powerful solution, at least as far as I've seen. DEQX is still the tidiest solution overall though. I don't have mine anymore though but may or may not buy another... will have to see. |
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#183 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Anyone know a supplier of felt?
Ideally looking for upto 9mm thickness and in black. I've seen a few DIY projects using this stuff so I'm guessing its out there somewhere but after searching on Google and also ebay I've come up with nothing apart from the usual thin craft variety. |
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#184 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: usa
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Try industrial suppliers.
We have McMaster/Carr over here . http://www.mcmaster.com There is likely something similar in the UK. Be prepared for sticker shock, it's pricey stuff. 9mm is pretty thick, are you using it inside the box or outside? |
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#185 |
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Master Burner
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco, California
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If I may, I would like to offer a few ideas. If you didn't already purchased the speakers, and if you are still open for different choices for the mid, PHL makes extraordinary mids and they are in 100's dB sensitivity which is breeze in matching with ribbon. Also with crossover you could always make passive between mid and tweeter and active on the bottom if you are looking to simplify. Matching very sensitive top with insensitive bottom is pain, I have been dealing with one but it is not impossible. Active in this case certainly helps. I have passive between mid and tweeter that I could turn on or off with switch in the back. I am running all the time active, but sometimes when I want to test various amps I turn it on.
Best of luck, we are all looking for another masterpiece! AR2 |
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#186 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Here some bracing I prepared earlier. Note the rather messy tweeter cabinet, the thing fell apart just after gluing
More bracing this time with roundovers: Progress on the mid/bass portions of the cabinets: All in all not bad for a few hours work. At this rate I'll have them finished by the end of the week |
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#187 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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I don't see you using an clamps. What kind of clamps do you use?
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#188 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
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#189 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Raleigh/Atlanta
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Shin,
Is there a reason why you don't have the braces interlocking? Thanks, Josh |
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#190 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Come to the UKdiy meet in July and check how dead the cabinets are or aren't. |
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