'LGT' Construction Diary

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
Couple of shots of the Audiotech 15H 52 06 13 SDK mids:

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Cabinets are moving along nicely:

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Its been a very uneventful build so far where most things have gone smoothly so you could say I'm appreciating the fact that I went all anal on the design work for this one. It makes a nice change because on other projects I occasionally left gaps and filled in the details as I got to them which quite often slowed things down a lot.

It almost seems like I'm moving them along a little too quickly but I shouldn't complain. I did knowingly start these main cabinet parts because they'd be the easy bit, sort of a warm up for the main event - the baffles. I can see those taking a good while longer to bring together because they're really quite fiddly.


At this point its time to start gathering up miscellaneous bits too. I was all set for ordering some bitumen panels and sheep's wool when I remembered the Spectra Dynamics Deflex panels that I wanted to use on the Perceives but spotted them only after having already fitting most of the bitumen stuff. So the Deflex will be going into these cabinets but with no stuffing or otherwise which I do think tends to do more harm than good. For example; I removed virtually all the stuffing out the bass section on the Perceives and they sounded noticeably more dynamic. You do have experiment with these things though.

Link to the Deflex panels: here
 
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Joined 2005
Nice looking driver.....
no doubt that PerSkaaning is a true perfectionist ...... just look at that thick front poleplate made for underhung voicecoil, machined in one solid piece ....quite many just simply put two together
also look at the way the membrane is glued to the front of surround .... inhouse handmade all the way
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
tinitus said:
Nice looking driver.....
no doubt that PerSkaaning is a true perfectionist ...... just look at that thick front poleplate made for underhung voicecoil, machined in one solid piece ....quite many just simply put two together
also look at the way the membrane is glued to the front of surround .... inhouse handmade all the way

Yep the guy does beautiful work. There's lots of little touches that standout, I didn't get a shot of it but the rear of the driver sports a vented pole piece the size that you'd normally see on a 10" driver and the whole thing is covered with breathable foam to prevent dust ingress. The same goes for the top plate where there's another bit of foam to let the coil breath but keep things clean - a good thing because MDF dust or loose damping material particles in a finished cabinet are more common than we like to believe.

Per also did these drivers as 12ohm instead of the usual 8ohm so as to present an easy 6ohm nominal load when paralleled.

I was also surprised at just how compliant the suspension is, very little force required to shift the cone.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
Was trying to get an idea of scale so just mated the two cabinet parts up for a very rough idea. They will be higher what with the tweeter box and the stand but I think they're nicely sized - not too large to look daft in a smaller room but still large enough to allow for benefits that bigger boxes provide.

Here's the pics from my little experiment:

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
ggta said:
So impressive :bigeyes:

Thanks :)

edjosh23 said:
Shin,

I worked quite a bit on my speakers today and built the braces... didn't turn out that wonderful. I found out the hard way the using a rip fence and a sliding miter the bandsaw still didn't cut straight. So the braces have too much room between them.

The build looks great. I'm very jealous

Josh

I don't have a bandsaw but I did try using the mitre saw to cut the grooves. It worked OK I guess but required precise marking and even then you'd have to continually go back and shave a tiny amount off until the whole thing fitted correctly. The other problem using the mitre saw was that you'd have to stop short of just where you wanted the groove to end because the circular blade obviously doesn't cut perpendicular, so this meant you had to trim the last couple of centimeters with a jigsaw - not ideal.

So the best method was the router with a straight bit that was equally to thickness of the material being used, its quite laborious setting the whole thing up though - the cut takes a minute and the setting up 10 minutes. But it works and works well.

If your Uni has a CNC router then you'll be laughing really.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2004
AR2 said:
Have you try routing table? That might be a faster solution. I do not know if you have one, but having one incorporated in table saw is very nice. There are pre made plates with depth adjustment knob, and all that it takes is to cut the hole and groove in your table saw.

Agreed. A router table would make things easier and quicker. However don't do like I did and buy one of those useless 30 quid things, they really aren't much good for anything other than putting an Ogee on a skirting board. I never use it and just simply measure, mark and then setup guide clamps and work that way. Its accurate but the setup is a pain.
 
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