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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

celestion 66 needs Mid-range
celestion 66 needs Mid-range
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Old 27th July 2013, 06:14 AM   #981
reggie is offline reggie  Australia
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: melbourne australia
Hello Alan. Thank you for your quick response. Several things I should state: first, I have a slight tendency toward fixation (popular nowadays but not to be confused with wilfulness); second, I want to build brand new cross-overs (so to utilise any of the existing cross-over is a struggle for me to accept); thirdly, I have read that Jantzen Superior Z were good/great caps at a reasonable price (and had therefore set my mind on them) and lastly, I have the money to do this (whilst acknowledging that the Celestions may not warrant such attention – but finding myself unwilling or unable to change them). So forgive me if I sometimes sound like a recalcitrant and petulant (64 year old) child caught out being naughty.
Anyway. The existing cross-overs are in two parts: woofer on one part and mid/tweeter on another. Thus they fit behind the woofer and the passive radiator. However, the new cross-over(s) will be on one board, external to the speakers. Therefore, while size won’t be an issue my skill level probably will be. So, any and all assistance is/will be appreciated.
So. What I understand is this: the use of Sonicap Gen 1 capacitors is, in this application, as “good” as the Jantzen Superior Z and for less money; they will prove easier for me to work with; the use of Jantzen caps will necessitate some compromises . I accept this Alan. Also, I’m not to order anything until I hear further from you about suitable replacements for the mid-range/tweeter inductors.
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Old 27th July 2013, 09:11 AM   #982
nigel pearson is offline nigel pearson  United Kingdom
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Hi Alan . In the topsy turvey world of OB designs damping factor is the first holy cow to get sacrificed . The help one gets from reducing it is considerable . Seeing as there is no box the whole concept of damping becomes different . ESP ( Elliot ) says that as long as damping doesn't get much below 2 there might be a free lunch in it . Naturally an inductor is the better lunch . These days cheap 100 W chip amps change how we might see throwing half our power away . Also if the design is happy the effects of crossover distortion and stability will be enhanced . If you concoct a baffle 4 x 2 feet and install the Celestion driver you might try direct from the amp and via 10 R . I would expect you to find with 10 R the sound is much more open . At times it might even sound as if it has treble . For example I have Magneplanar's , these must be the least coloured speaker bar a few . Listening to TV still says to me am I going deaf , no it is TV doesn't do the job properly . Listening to a 15 inch bass unit without a box I found I could follow every word . This is something like Caruso on 78's . Something is happening which the science says shouldn't . However remove the 10 R series resistance and all the magic is lost . Nasty and constricted . Even with 10 R it is still that way sometimes . As my PA friend said the roll off is smooth and controlled so will be like 78's . I conclude feedback mechanisms are stopping the proper function of the speaker . In a box we will seldom know this as the box is throwing stuff through the cone . I have also found we might be wrongly calling this a valve sound . A Quad 303 + 10 R sounds much like the valve amp I spent months perfecting . The valve is more detailed .

A pair of Celestion 44 ( or 66 - ABR ) and some 4 x 2 ply strikes me as the cheapest fun possible . When boredom sets in the drive units go back in the box .

I am trying to get data on 0.6 mm 500 g reels of copper wire . Perhaps that would be a nice inductor ?

Baffles need EQ . A Quad 405 would be useful . I am not the worlds greatest fan of Quad if asking . Great workhorses . The diagram is a bit of nonsense that might work . As I have 10R it might be OK to EQ as a shunt . This is a crude attempt to define the problems of OB . A nicer near brick wall high pass filter shown ( Butterworth , - 47 dB 10 Hz ) . 10 R helps the drive unit climb at Fs . The plan then is to roll off at 250 Hz to avoid cancellation effects at 500 Hz ( filter and driver add ) . This is where 44's come in . In OB the advantage of a large mid range is considerable . It's defects are less than it's advantages . Liberated from the box it can show the Caruso effect , also it will ignore the baffle better which after 500 Hz is a problem . I think active is a walk in the park compared with passive . The amount of money consumed to get it to work OB would put me off trying . The last op amp might be the power amp . If Cdom is set high enough amplifiers can be configured to work as power filters . I can configure the amplifier to have artificial output impedance . I doubt it is the same thing . This diagram assumes 15 inch bass Qts 0.7 . The 12 inch Celestion could well sit at the baffle top and start at 250 Hz . For me perhaps a Mourdant Short 8 inch bass A la Naim Audio SBL and then ribbon tweeters ( > 7 kHz ) . My main amp NAD 3020 , 15 inch bass via chip amp with external Cdom ( 330 W if so configured ) . These option are upgradable . The idea is real high end for peanuts . The NAD even has phono and pre-amp split . Efficiency will be about like Quad ESL 57 even though the bass unit is 95 dB / W . The EQ reduces it . So far I have spent circa 70 / $100 including wood .

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Old 31st July 2013, 01:54 PM   #983
moermusic is offline moermusic  Canada
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Alan: alas one learns the error of ones ways. Now use Yamaha S4115H pa spkrs.( which I had from before). still keep an eye open for 66's.
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Old 31st July 2013, 02:22 PM   #984
nigel pearson is offline nigel pearson  United Kingdom
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44's also

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Old 23rd August 2013, 07:05 PM   #985
alan-1-b is offline alan-1-b  United Kingdom
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Default there is a PROBLEM ! , plus brief replies to 2 other members

Reggie ,
I apologize for the delay in replying to your post ,
and now I will reply , below the Quote box.
Originally Posted by reggie View Post
Several things I should state: first, I have a slight tendency toward fixation (popular nowadays but not to be confused with wilfulness); second, I want to build brand new cross-overs (so to utilise any of the existing cross-over is a struggle for me to accept); thirdly, I have read that Jantzen Superior Z were good/great caps at a reasonable price (and had therefore set my mind on them) and lastly, I have the money to do this (whilst acknowledging that the Celestions may not warrant such attention – but finding myself unwilling or unable to change them). So forgive me if I sometimes sound like a recalcitrant and petulant (64 year old) child caught out being naughty.

So. What I understand is this: the use of Sonicap Gen 1 capacitors is, in this application, as “good” as the Jantzen Superior Z and for less money; they will prove easier for me to work with; the use of Jantzen caps will necessitate some compromises . I accept this Alan.

You may have all the fixations you like , but unfortunately it will do you no good , because there is a problem with what you are wanting to do ,
and that will result in worse sound than you will get via alternates that you seem to not want to do.

I have looked at the web-site of the Australian Jantzen seller , Speakerbug.
Two of the Jantzen inductors are there available.
You will have to ask him to order the other three.

The Superior Z-cap has 3.3uF , 10uF , 3.9uF , but no 24uF nor 25uF nor even a 27uF.
22uF with 2.2uF in Parallel technically sums to 24.2uF , BUT that is one of the worst ways to obtain 24uF ,
because the transient response will be distorted as result of the much faster Pulse Rise Time of the smaller 2.2uF cap versus the relatively much slower of the larger 22uF cap ,
and as result the 2 expensive caps will cause worse sound than can be got from a single slightly lower quality 24uF cap.
Some designers , and most retailers , do not understand this , and will not listen to actually hear the difference.
The other alternate is to connect three of 8.2uF in Parallel so that all the caps have the same Pulse Rise Time when summing to 24.6uF ,
but I see the price of the 8.2uF in Australian dollars , and you will be spending a ridiculous amount of money buying six of those to make two 24.6uF caps !
For much less money you can buy Sonicap Gen I , or the possibly better ClarityCap ESA 250 volt series 25uF cap which is almost certainly equal to Superior Z-cap in audio quality.

The 27uF Jantzen Cross-cap will not be bad , but very unlikely as good as the ClarityCap ESA , nor even quite as good as ClarityCap PX.

If you will only use Superior Z-cap at any price then you will have to be very careful how you connect the three of 8.2uF ,
because if not clean single point connections at each end the sound will not be as good as a single cap , and thus your money wasted ,
and do not expect a local television repairman or similar person to understand how these high performance caps need to be connected together to achieve their potential ,
but do expect most such people to laugh that a fool would buy such things when the assembley person you may decide to take your parts to
is quite content with electrolytic caps or low price Mylar caps in various Parallel combinations and does not even consider that Pulse Rise Time is relevant or audible.
Most of those people have never listened to quality audio.

Also , Speakerbug do not have any resistors of the quality of the Superior Z-caps and the Jantzen air-cored inductors.
Jantzen do not make any of their branded resistors - all three types are made in Asian factories.
The Jantzen MOX are not as good as Mundorf's MOX according to one listener whom I do trust - he has very good hearing.
The new Superes resistors may be good , but the 10 watt version Speakerbug has may not be as good for sound as the 5 watt version which they do not stock ,
because the construction of both is different , with the 10 watter designed for high power , and as the Celestions will not take that level there is no advantage to those ,
but for your expensive Hiquphon tweeter the 5 watter is likely to give better sound.
The 10 watt version , with their Asian brand on them , was tested by an experienced British listener with seemingly one or two other listeners blind testing at his home ,
and in comparison to several other resistors including Mundorf MOX in both 5 and 10 watt The 5 watt MOX was their preference.
{ Mills resistors were not in the test.}

You can ask the Speakerbug seller if he can obtain 5 watt Superes.
The list that Jantzen can obtain includes 1.1 ohm and 27 ohm which you will need for the tweeter L-pad if you persist with having to use a 0.15mH inductor
so that you can use Superior Z-cap in the limited capacitances available to the tweeter , 3.3uF and 10uF.
I would chance a 27 ohm in the 10 watter for the Parallel resistor , but for the 1.1 ohm Series resistor I think the 5 watter is necessary , and preferably for the 27 ohm also.

Mundorf MOX do not have 1.1 ohm , but do have 1.2 ohm however that requires the other resistor to be between 24 <--> 25 ohms , which they do not have ,
so to use MOX you will have to ask a seller to measure samples and choose 1.2 and 27 that both measure in the negative side of their +/- Tolerance ,
and then you will have close to optimum.
One such seller in the UK has ClarityCap ESA in 25uF and 3.9uF for your midrange filter , and also 3.3 and 10 if you want to be sure of Superior Z-cap quality ,
even if very small difference in sound between the two types.

The only Mills seller with 1.1 , 1.2 , 25 , ohms is Soniccraft in USA , thus back to my earlier recommendation for their 24 or 25 uF caps along with their 3.9 or 4uF for the midrange filter.
because Soniccraft apply a US dollar 10 handling charge to all International orders for less than USD 100 , thus to buy the Mills resistors cost-effectively you would have to buy more things ...

If Speakerbug cannot get 1.1 ohm 5 watt Superes , ask if 1.3 ohm available in 5 watt , which can be used with 22 ohm for correct Impedance L-pad ,
albeit with very slightly less tweeter output by about 0.34dB , scarcely audible.
No other company has 1.3 ohms in sufficient power - most in that unusual value are in quarter watt or less.

If I am remembering correctly you already have some MOX resistors , are those Mundorf 5 watters ?

For the Jantzen inductors:

0.15mH , order No.1324 or No.1816.
0.35mH , order No.1453.
2.2mH for Midrange , Speakerbug has No.1564 , which is optimum.
2.2mH and 3.4mH for woofer you know about the No.28 and No.35.

*** *** *** *** ***

Hi Doug ,

I have an idea for you when I get time to post it !

'ullo Nigel ,

I have not forgotten your case.
Do I understand correctly that you want a small cone for dipole midrange ?
and a large cone for dipole bass ?
and if that is correct , then forget that low priced 8"/200mm poly-cone.

If you want low price for a fun project , but still reasonable sound quality ,
then look on ebay with all this in the Search:
Elac 180JM23
Seller is:- Willys-Hifi , in Essex.
He has NOS stock of the 6 1/2"/180mm bass-mid used by JPW in their Sonata years ago.
It is good to 5kHz on axis , and will work with a single inductor there to roll-off.
I think it is the same driver that Mordaunt-Short earlier used in their MS-100 with no inductor , and which sounded a bit upper mids' prominent , but good quality.
It can be used down to lowest-mids/upper bass to cross to a higher efficiency woofer , which ideally should be +6dB more efficient so as to not need an equalizer boost for the open panel bass.
Such woofers are available , and not too expensive.
I'll post more about these when I have time available.

There are better bass/mid cones available now , such as from SEAS , but at higher price ,
so decide your budget , and if necessary buy the Elac before all stock is gone forever , as it is no longer manufactured.

Last edited by alan-1-b; 23rd August 2013 at 07:19 PM. Reason: to punctuate a bit better
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Old 24th August 2013, 03:40 AM   #986
reggie is offline reggie  Australia
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Hello Allan. Thank you for all the new information. Several new questions though please. (i) In my last post (#981) I agreed that I would put aside my life long dream (subtle humour here) to use Jantzen Superior Z caps and instead use the original value Claritycap or Sonicap caps. Therefore your recommendation to use coil #1324/1816 (a 0.15mh inductor) in the treble is/is not now relevant???(if I am intent on using a new inductor in the tweeter section should I not order the Jantzen #1813 (0.14mh 24awg) to conform to original specs? (ii) Even though the Clarity Cap ESA 250v caps get good write-ups, the fact that they do not provide a 3.6uf cap for the treble provides a problem (although they do have everything else). So, unless I use a different cap in that position I guess it would simpler to just buy all (Gen 1) caps and (Mills ERA5) resistors from Sonicap in America who have all the relevant values. (iii) If I felt I wanted a little more volume from my tweeter what specification resistors would I use in my LPad (you originally suggested 1.1/1.2 and 15/18 ohm with the 0.14mh inductor?
Thank you.
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Old 6th September 2013, 06:08 PM   #987
alan-1-b is offline alan-1-b  United Kingdom
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Default update on my #985 for Reggie - tweeter inductor and L-pad

G'day reggie ,

I apologize , I had misread your first post on this page and thought you were stating you would accept the compromises arising from using the Jantzen caps.

Using a 0.14mH inductor allows you more options for L-pads with the available resistance values.

Jantzen coil number 1813 in 24AWG is 0.5 ohm
which is a good resistance to use in a parallel inductor with the Hiquphon tweeter.

For the L-pad options ,
forget the 1.2 ohm + 15 ohm option ,
because with the higher output from the woofer with the new low DCR inductors this L-pad will cause the tweeter to be too low in output relative to the woofer.
The most attenuation of the tweeter you are likely to need is with 1.1 ohm + 18 ohm ,
however I think you may find even that a little too much , but buy those if you want the option.
I recommend you start with 0.75 ohm + 24.9 ohm for the L-pads ,
and then decide whether you want more or less treble.
For less , use 1.1 + 18 ohms.
For more , use 0.50 + 30.9 ohms.
If you want to try the tweeter at full output buy 62 ohms and connect that in Parallel with the tweeter , and no Series connected resistor.
The 62 ohm in Parallel reduces the OWII tweeter's impedance to that required for the 0.14mH inductor.

NOTE to other readers here:- these resistor values are ONLY for use with Hiquphon OWII.
If you have Hiquphon OWI you will need different value resistors.

For the Midrange , the 1.8 ohm in Series with the 24uF input cap will attenuate too much relative to the new higher output from the woofer.
I do NOT know how much resistance you will need here.
Now we are into genuine DIY , because what you will be doing now is Voicing the loudspeaker ,
that is , you will be setting its tonal balance by ear.
That is the only way it can be done , because the new lower DCR inductors in the woofer filter will allow a faster transient response as well as higher output ,
thus the transient response of the midrange , and treble , need to be got to match.
This can be heard a lot more easily than it can be measured ,
thus as you will have out-of-cabinet crossovers you can experiment with a few different resistor values in the midrange to find the type of sound you like.
Probably if no Series resistance to the input cap the midrange output will be too Forward.
I recommend you buy all of: 0.5 ohm ; 1.0 ohm ; 1.5 ohm ,
and start with the 1.5 ohm in circuit as that will be the most attenuation you are likely to need , and possibly it will be too much ,
however listen , and next change to either the 1 ohm or the 0.5 ohm depending on whether you think you need a little or a lot more mids' output.
Remember , as I stated above , the sound will not only be greater or lesser output level , but will also be slightly different transient response ,
and it is possible to hear the option that gets closest to the transient response of the lower midrange and bass from the woofer.
That is what experienced designers of high-end loudspeakers do when fine-tuning crossovers.

Also , the other resistor in the midrange filter , in Series with the 4uF cap.
This one determines the upper midrange sound around the 5kHz crossover region and a little below that.
Again you will have to experiment.
I recommend starting with 3.3 ohms there whilst you are deciding the other mids' resistor and the tweeter L-pad.
Lastly you can change that resistor to 3.9 ohm if you want a slightly more forward upper midrange ... and the difference between the two options there may be subtle ,
and will vary with the recordings you play , so you will have to decide a compromise for the recordings.
Also , given the sample variation between different MD500 domes that sba found with his measurements , I cannot predict which resistance may be optimum ,
and it is possible if each of your mid-domes is slightly different in its upper midrange output you may prefer a 3.3 ohm for one and a 3.9 ohm for the other ...
that you will have to decide by ear.
The mid-dome sample variations are all more at the upper end of their frequency response , and little at the lower end when crossed at 500 Hz or higher.

Woofer inductors:
I see that Jantzen now have a 3.5mH coil in low DCR:
Number 0153 in 14 AWG is 0.552 ohms.
Which inductance is better to use here , 3.4 or 3.5 mH ?
The audible difference will be very small , and heard only at around and a little below the 500 Hz crossover point.
If you want the bass to lower midrange balance to be a little more towards the lower mids , then use 3.4mH ,
and if you want the balance to be a little less lower mids then use 3.5mH.
The difference will be very small.

Given the +/- Tolerance that the coils are wound to I would specify as follows:

" Coils numbers 0035 and 0153 and +/- Tolerance , please measure some samples of both coils and select two that measure in between 3.4mH and 3.5mH."

Ask the Jantzen dealer to send that request with your Order.
You will likely be charged the slightly higher price of the 0153 coil regardless of which coil you are sent , to cover the cost of the selecting.

You have 10 watt MOX in 1 ohm and 1.5 ohm.
As these are 10 watt they will not even get warm in use in the woofer filter ,
thus use those two MOX reistors there.
Any difference in sound between those 10 watt MOX and 5 watt Mills will be indistinguishable in that circuit location.
If you decide later after trying all the resistors options in the midrange that you prefer 0.5 ohms there ,
then you will have Mills 1 ohm and 1.5 ohm spare if you want to then put in the woofer filter ,
though I doubt there will be any audible difference , unless one or more of the resistors happens to be faulty.

Sonic Craft is the only Mills MRA-5 seller that has 1.1 ohm ; 24.9 ohm ; 30.9 ohm ,
so it is good you have decided to use the Sonicap GenI.

You will not need exact matched pairs of caps , however I recommend you send the following with your Order:

" For all the capacitors please measure and select samples that measure on the same side of the +/- Tolerance for each value of capacitance ,
and please measure samples of both 24uF and 25uF and select two which measure in between 24 and 25 uF."

You will likely be charged the 25uF cap price for that.

For the other caps: 3.6uF ; 11uF ; and either 3.9 or 4uF for the Parallel midrange cap , as it does not matter which value ,
so look at their physical dimensions in the list and decide if you want the longer thinner or the shorter fatter as regards which may fit better on your design of board.

Mills MRA-5 are +/- 1% Tolerance , thus no need to measure samples as all values will be very close to pairs.

With Sonic Craft you will have to email the list for you Order in advance , and inform them your address so they can determine price and then set up a PayPal link for you to pay ,
so they will decide the capacitor selection fee then , if any ,
and from what a few buyers have posted elsewhere it seems there is no selection fee if one is buying more than a few parts , as you are ,
and is not specifying very tight value selection , which you aren't and do not need.


How to listen to determine balance between mid-dome and woofer , and with not much signal from the tweeter to confuse the ear when deciding the upper mids' resistors.
I use solo Cello recordings , because Cello has little low bass , mostly upper bass and midrange , and very little true treble as what sounds like treble from it is mostly upper midrange.
The most useful recording I have is:
Bach , Suites for solo cello , Pierre Fournier , on Archiv label.
It is a mid-priced 2CD set.
This set is well recorded , has useful tonal balance for this test , and is played in an enjoyable musical manner.
Some other performers of these works are not enjoyable to listen to ,
as some play in too scholarly manner , and some become tedious.
Some do not use sufficient nuance of rhythm to keep the music moving , etc ...
Go to Youtube and find some performances.
Type "Bach cello" in the Search box.
There will be many different performers , and some will be unlistenable in various ways ,
so find one you can listen to and then decide whether you like the music enough to want to buy the Fournier set.
{ EDIT: I have now looked and found several with Fournier , so put "Bach Fournier" in the Search box.}

If no shops have stock and you decide to buy Mail-order ,
then post here first and I'll list a few other CDs you are likely to like { given what you described to me in earlier posts }
so that you have a cost-effective size Order for Shipping cost.

Other sounds for determining wide-midrange balance:
Male vocal ; Acoustic guitar - particually Nylon strung Classical or Flamenco ; solo Piano ;
Toms and Conga drums ; Electric guitar level with respect to other instruments in the mix.


Your new board/s:
If you have decided to permanently mount boards outside the enclosure then their size is not restricted ,
however if you think you may want to put the boards inside one day if when selling the loudspeakers ,
then make them slightly less then the diameter of the woofer cut-out so that you can put them through.
That will be not larger than 10.5 inch , however 10 inch will be sufficient width board if all of the crossover is to be on a single board.
You can make the board almost as long as the Internal width of the 66 enclosure ,
though 12 inch will be sufficient to have all the new and some very large physical size inductors at sufficient distance from each other.

You can make the board from Plywood , and if so then buy a type that is specified as any of:
Marine Ply ; Structural Ply ; External Ply ,
because those have a stronger adhesive than Internal ply and Furniture ply and it is a non-toxic emissions type.
Buy in at least quarter inch thickness.
You can use MDF board , again in quarter inch min ,
and I recommend you do not use Particle board , because its edges crumble as it ages when exposed in air.

If you go to a Plywood cutting Business that sells to DIY handymen they will likely have bin of small size off-cuts , thus you will not have to buy large sheets ,
which you do not need and which are expensive.

If you want a better Electrical material , then look at prices for sizes of:
Teflon/PTFE { expensive } ;
Lexan { polycarbonate , and lower price , and very strong , can use one eighth inch thick , though I'd use 3/16 minimum and quarter inch better } ;
Fibreglass , if available in thick enough for strength for those heavy woofer inductors , 3/16 or 1/4 inch.

Do not use ABS plastic , even though it does get used for some Electrical fittings.

You can buy Tag Strips from the Australian Jaycar stores , and bolt them to the board if you want to solder component leads to terminals instead of directly to each other.

Last edited by alan-1-b; 6th September 2013 at 06:23 PM. Reason: to add a sentance
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Old 15th September 2013, 04:15 AM   #988
reggie is offline reggie  Australia
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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Hello Alan.
Thank you for all the extra advice. I have now ordered all my pieces. Soniccraft have found some 24.5uf capacitors for me but have run out of 0.5ohm Mills resistors so they are sending 0.51ohm instead? Speakerbug are arranging, amongst other things, several 3.45mH coils for me (ah, is there nothing money cannot buy?) As regards Cello music I have several pieces: Beethoven's Concerto for Piano, Cello and Orchestra in C (Opus 56); Boccherini's Concerto for Cello and Strings in G and Cello Concerto in B flat. I also have a CD entitled Musicall Humors, a rendering of tunes by a 17th century English soldier and mercenary by the name of Captaine Tobias Hume who spoke 4 languages and played a mean viol de Gambo. His works are played by Jordi Savall on the viol in a solo performance. I'm not sure where the viol sits in relation to a cello but its a good recording and, being of a single instrument, quite legible.
I'll be checking out your recommendations for xover boards and interior stuffing - might as well do everything at the same time!
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Old 17th September 2013, 03:56 PM   #989
alan-1-b is offline alan-1-b  United Kingdom
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Default a reply to #988 , and Viol da Gamba/s

G'day Reggie ,

the 0.51 ohm resistor would cause a very small , probably tiny , difference in the tone in the tweeter circuit , and even less in the mid-range circuit.
I doubt it will be distinctly noticeable in the 66 , and if it is it may be better or worse , depending on whatever sample variations your drivers are ,
but don't worry about it , just listen when you install it , if you need to install it.

Hume's music for solo Viol - I listened to some of Savall's performance on youtube.
The instrument sounds wide-range from mid-bass to upper-mids/low treble ,
and the recording seems quite good , so far as one can decipher from a youtube up/down load.

If you happen to like this music a lot , and would like to hear another version to compare , I recommend Susanne Heinrich on Hyperion label.
It is very well recorded , and she is an evocative performer of this music.
There is some from hers on youtube.

Bach's solo cello compositions are the next development after the Hume style.

In the Viol and Gamba families of instruments , there seems to have been at least 7 variations ,
including a 7 string bass version , and two 6 string bass versions of Gambas ,
and in the Viols there are: bass ; tenor ; alto and treble sized instruments.
Those Hume compositions sound like bass viol , but some could be tenor viol.

The 6th of Bach's pieces was actually composed for a 6 string viol da gamba ,
however , Fournier and a few other cellists make it sound good on whatever versions of Cellos they played for it.

For both the Boccherini and Beethoven concerti ,
it will be how the various instruments were balanced in the particular recordings you have that will determine their usefulness in evaluating the tonal balance of loudspeakers ,
eg: less than optimally balanced recordings will not allow the 66s to be critically evaluated.

Also , if I've understood your post correctly , I think the Beethoven concerto you are referring to is the Triple Concerto , and includes Violin.

For a different style of music entirely , and if I'm remembering correctly you listed a King Crimson album ,
the 40th Anniversary remaster of their "Red" album sounds very good ,
and has some particually good low bass frequencies.
There are some extra tracks including alternate mixes , etc ...
at least on the very well manufactured Japanese copy I bought.

There are a few other albums I can recommend for you that I think you will like , given those you listed in earlier posts.

Last edited by alan-1-b; 17th September 2013 at 03:59 PM. Reason: to change one word
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Old 18th September 2013, 10:27 AM   #990
nigel pearson is offline nigel pearson  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oxfordshire
If you ever are in Oxford and this type of music is at the Sheldonian buy some tickets . Some of the coloration I don't mind sound like that building . Bach B Minor Mass I remember . It was sponsored by Quad . I think it was the last corporate thing they ever did as the original company ? I listened to Poulenc's the Gloria recently there ( BBC Radio 3 session ) .
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