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Old 24th August 2008, 04:01 PM   #31
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Join Date: May 2006
What type, there where at least 2 versions, old black front 66's and finished wood fronts.....

Take your crossovers in for testing!
I have NOS in the box! stock for 2 complete sets of Celestion Ditton 66 Studio Monitor replacments components......
Will be selling them this winter on eBay.....


Good luck


ToneDef2
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Old 21st June 2010, 06:00 AM   #32
Bhu108 is offline Bhu108  United States
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Cool I need the schematics for the Celestion Studio (Ditton) 66 as well

Hello
I need the schematics for the Celestion Studio (Ditton) 66 as well
Any modifications
thanks
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Old 22nd June 2010, 04:47 PM   #33
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Midlands
Default for Schematics, etc ...

Bhu108,

Search this Forum for the Thread titled:-

Celestion 66 needs Mid-range

started by:-

Mr_White

On Page 17 there in Post #162 by RWTomkins are Links to 2 versions of the Schematic and 1 page of spare parts numbers.

There is one mistake on each Schematic page.
Correction is :-
Ditton 66 P.C.C. is the Printed Circuit Board version of the cross-over for the MkII 66.
Ditton 66 T.B.C. is the Hard Wired version of the original 66 crossover.

Several owners and myself have engaged in a lot of discussion about modifications, mostly about the crossover,
but also a bit about the diffraction from the edges of the enclosure - particually from that protruding lip at the top which detrimentally affects the treble and upper mid-range.
There is also some discussion about replacement drivers for tweeter and mid-dome.

Crossover discussions are primarily about how to use new polypropylene capacitors in a way which retains the liked aspects of the original's tonal balance, however some owners do want to change in part to a modern sound.

The earlier pages contain some speculations later discussed more comprehensively after more information was posted.

In a Post somewhere is a Link to a Photo of the Studio label on one owner's Studio version.

In a few places I inadvertantly posted some mistakes, and those I corrected in later posts - identified as such.

Some of the earlier pages' information is relevant to later pages' discussion, thus there is a lot to read if one wants to follow what we are attempting.

This discussion is on-going, subject to experiments being tried.

If any questions, please Post in that thread anything about the topics specifically covered in that thread,
because I do not have the time available to repeat explanations in this thread here,
and the various other contributors who visit there periodically may also have something to say about whatever you may post.
__________________
Alan

Last edited by alan-1-b; 22nd June 2010 at 05:02 PM. Reason: to add a sentance
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Old 21st March 2012, 03:53 PM   #34
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Location: Norfolk, UK
Default Ditton 66 making new cabinets and linking up pcb with drivers

Hello,
This being my new post I am likely to make a complete 'pig's ear' of it so please bear with me! Yes - I have read through the long 'Mr.White' thread but could find no information directly relevant to my needs - hence this post.

A long time ago my Mk11 Ditton 66's became badly fire and water damaged but I managed to rescue all except for one driver - one of the woofers - and the cabinets. However I very recently managed to acquire a good working one and now I am keen to 'resurrect' my units. The 'bug' is back!
I have 2 issues:
(i) - first - although the dimensions for the cabinets are stated as being 40x15x11.5 inches I don't know whether this 15" includes the top and base overhangs or indeed by how much they overhang and the dimensions for the 'triangles' that were removed on the corners? Also having read many threads here and elsewhere it has been mooted that maybe the overhangs need removing to obviate diffraction errors? Not keen on doing that unless someone has trialled it and had great results. Additionally need to know if the HF and MF units need/ought to have separate / isolated enclosures? I'm currently assuming they do. I'm also intending to use 19mm veneered mdf - which will be braced and wadded. (Will that be 'man enough'? I'm not intending to replace the caps because they are described as being virtually 'military strength' in the Mk11. Random tests have shown those tested to be within intended parameters. They were little used prior to damage because I had / still have quite a few speakers - but - yes I know they are still very old!
(ii) - second - I have the crossovers, and the connectors for the pcb, still with wires intact. Do these seemingly 'puny' wires need replacing with more robust ones? I don't know which colour wires connect up to the drivers - foolishly didn't write down coding because of my rush to rescue the units! I know the bass driver has black and yellow wires - but that's all. I am no electronics expert, quite the opposite, but I am quite capable at soldering. I'm assuming, possibly erroneously, that any black wire to the bass driver would be OK but need to know to prevent possible '****-ups'. From memory the HF units were black and blue connections but since senility is creeping in I'm quite likely wrong! If I'm right deduction applies to the MF units.

I would be very grateful for some help with these questions please because I'm anxious to hear the units after such a long time. I'm also trying to resurrect my Kef 105.11's - similarly damaged - but that's another project after this one. Thank you - in anticipation. John.
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Old 18th April 2014, 04:34 PM   #35
Harel is offline Harel  Israel
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Default Ditton 66 (series ii) passive radiator

Guys please your help
My friend just got ( a gift!! ) Ditton 66 Series II from another friend..
But (there is always a BUT inst it???) unfortunately one the passive radiators is missing.
Do you possibly know where to find one?
PM or just a M please
Pics are enclosed (not the usual model i'm afraid looks like a cast basket here...)
thanks in advance
Harel
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File Type: jpg IMG-20140418-WA0010.jpg (52.9 KB, 24 views)
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