l have to agree with the previous poster the coles super tweeter is not up to the rest of the system even expert opinion of the time prefered the hf 2000 over it judging by the number of times it was recommended in diy projects of the '70s over the coles and if anyone wants it or is interested: l have the t/s paramaters for the 12 in bass driver....... cheers TC
Ditton 66
In meantime I finished the clone of the audio note an e speakers, and after a initial burn-up I noticed that the sound of the my new speakers have some similarities in timbre with my old celestions, especially in mids and bass. This color of sound I mostly like in my old speakers, the color of old school of speaker builders.
Natrually, a highs cannot be compared, because as I mentioned before, they were the weakest spot of the speaker s construction. But, interesting thing is that the actually smaller driver of 8" in properly built enclosure had aparentlly stronger bass performance than the 12" celestion woofer. I think, if somebody could refurbish celestion boxes using same methods which were been used by mr. snell the results probbably would be truly amazing.
In meantime I finished the clone of the audio note an e speakers, and after a initial burn-up I noticed that the sound of the my new speakers have some similarities in timbre with my old celestions, especially in mids and bass. This color of sound I mostly like in my old speakers, the color of old school of speaker builders.
Natrually, a highs cannot be compared, because as I mentioned before, they were the weakest spot of the speaker s construction. But, interesting thing is that the actually smaller driver of 8" in properly built enclosure had aparentlly stronger bass performance than the 12" celestion woofer. I think, if somebody could refurbish celestion boxes using same methods which were been used by mr. snell the results probbably would be truly amazing.
thats more than likely because your 8 in has a higher qts than the celestion 12" cheers
TC
Hi tonedef2,
its good you are back in the Celestion 66 discussions in the Forum !
I posted some later comments in the other thread we were discussing the 66s and cross-overs in.
I'll add to that here, now that you've reconditioned your MD500s you may be hearing what were prevoiusly less obvious annomolies elsewhere.
You did say you had the x-overs checked, but how thoroughly did who-ever do this, and under what degree of voltage stress ?
If the series feed cap to your tweeters has gone aeven slightly leaky, or is now some-what larger capacitance than its Nominal value, the tweeters may be being driven too low in frequency, and that would cause distortions, and eventually damage.
Alternately, they may not be to the quality of the MD500s, but do check the above first.
I'll post some on how to do this if you are not sure of.
Its probably more consistent to discuss this in the other Thread under what I posted there.
Grahame seems to have got a spare MD500 now and 2 cross-overs, but I don't know if same as those in the 66s you have as photo on ebay looked different, but the inductors may be the same, thus new caps could be added for comparison with his other cross-overs.
See also the 66 Mids'Thread he and I have discussed this in.
regards,
its good you are back in the Celestion 66 discussions in the Forum !
I posted some later comments in the other thread we were discussing the 66s and cross-overs in.
I'll add to that here, now that you've reconditioned your MD500s you may be hearing what were prevoiusly less obvious annomolies elsewhere.
You did say you had the x-overs checked, but how thoroughly did who-ever do this, and under what degree of voltage stress ?
If the series feed cap to your tweeters has gone aeven slightly leaky, or is now some-what larger capacitance than its Nominal value, the tweeters may be being driven too low in frequency, and that would cause distortions, and eventually damage.
Alternately, they may not be to the quality of the MD500s, but do check the above first.
I'll post some on how to do this if you are not sure of.
Its probably more consistent to discuss this in the other Thread under what I posted there.
Grahame seems to have got a spare MD500 now and 2 cross-overs, but I don't know if same as those in the 66s you have as photo on ebay looked different, but the inductors may be the same, thus new caps could be added for comparison with his other cross-overs.
See also the 66 Mids'Thread he and I have discussed this in.
regards,
What type, there where at least 2 versions, old black front 66's and finished wood fronts.....
Take your crossovers in for testing!
I have NOS in the box! stock for 2 complete sets of Celestion Ditton 66 Studio Monitor replacments components......
Will be selling them this winter on eBay.....
Good luck
ToneDef2
Take your crossovers in for testing!
I have NOS in the box! stock for 2 complete sets of Celestion Ditton 66 Studio Monitor replacments components......
Will be selling them this winter on eBay.....
Good luck
ToneDef2
for Schematics, etc ...
Bhu108,
Search this Forum for the Thread titled:-
Celestion 66 needs Mid-range
started by:-
Mr_White
On Page 17 there in Post #162 by RWTomkins are Links to 2 versions of the Schematic and 1 page of spare parts numbers.
There is one mistake on each Schematic page.
Correction is :-
Ditton 66 P.C.C. is the Printed Circuit Board version of the cross-over for the MkII 66.
Ditton 66 T.B.C. is the Hard Wired version of the original 66 crossover.
Several owners and myself have engaged in a lot of discussion about modifications, mostly about the crossover,
but also a bit about the diffraction from the edges of the enclosure - particually from that protruding lip at the top which detrimentally affects the treble and upper mid-range.
There is also some discussion about replacement drivers for tweeter and mid-dome.
Crossover discussions are primarily about how to use new polypropylene capacitors in a way which retains the liked aspects of the original's tonal balance, however some owners do want to change in part to a modern sound.
The earlier pages contain some speculations later discussed more comprehensively after more information was posted.
In a Post somewhere is a Link to a Photo of the Studio label on one owner's Studio version.
In a few places I inadvertantly posted some mistakes, and those I corrected in later posts - identified as such.
Some of the earlier pages' information is relevant to later pages' discussion, thus there is a lot to read if one wants to follow what we are attempting.
This discussion is on-going, subject to experiments being tried.
If any questions, please Post in that thread anything about the topics specifically covered in that thread,
because I do not have the time available to repeat explanations in this thread here,
and the various other contributors who visit there periodically may also have something to say about whatever you may post.
Bhu108,
Search this Forum for the Thread titled:-
Celestion 66 needs Mid-range
started by:-
Mr_White
On Page 17 there in Post #162 by RWTomkins are Links to 2 versions of the Schematic and 1 page of spare parts numbers.
There is one mistake on each Schematic page.
Correction is :-
Ditton 66 P.C.C. is the Printed Circuit Board version of the cross-over for the MkII 66.
Ditton 66 T.B.C. is the Hard Wired version of the original 66 crossover.
Several owners and myself have engaged in a lot of discussion about modifications, mostly about the crossover,
but also a bit about the diffraction from the edges of the enclosure - particually from that protruding lip at the top which detrimentally affects the treble and upper mid-range.
There is also some discussion about replacement drivers for tweeter and mid-dome.
Crossover discussions are primarily about how to use new polypropylene capacitors in a way which retains the liked aspects of the original's tonal balance, however some owners do want to change in part to a modern sound.
The earlier pages contain some speculations later discussed more comprehensively after more information was posted.
In a Post somewhere is a Link to a Photo of the Studio label on one owner's Studio version.
In a few places I inadvertantly posted some mistakes, and those I corrected in later posts - identified as such.
Some of the earlier pages' information is relevant to later pages' discussion, thus there is a lot to read if one wants to follow what we are attempting.
This discussion is on-going, subject to experiments being tried.
If any questions, please Post in that thread anything about the topics specifically covered in that thread,
because I do not have the time available to repeat explanations in this thread here,
and the various other contributors who visit there periodically may also have something to say about whatever you may post.
Last edited:
Ditton 66 making new cabinets and linking up pcb with drivers
Hello,
This being my new post I am likely to make a complete 'pig's ear' of it so please bear with me! Yes - I have read through the long 'Mr.White' thread but could find no information directly relevant to my needs - hence this post.
A long time ago my Mk11 Ditton 66's became badly fire and water damaged but I managed to rescue all except for one driver - one of the woofers - and the cabinets. However I very recently managed to acquire a good working one and now I am keen to 'resurrect' my units. The 'bug' is back!
I have 2 issues:
(i) - first - although the dimensions for the cabinets are stated as being 40x15x11.5 inches I don't know whether this 15" includes the top and base overhangs or indeed by how much they overhang and the dimensions for the 'triangles' that were removed on the corners? Also having read many threads here and elsewhere it has been mooted that maybe the overhangs need removing to obviate diffraction errors? Not keen on doing that unless someone has trialled it and had great results. Additionally need to know if the HF and MF units need/ought to have separate / isolated enclosures? I'm currently assuming they do. I'm also intending to use 19mm veneered mdf - which will be braced and wadded. (Will that be 'man enough'? I'm not intending to replace the caps because they are described as being virtually 'military strength' in the Mk11. Random tests have shown those tested to be within intended parameters. They were little used prior to damage because I had / still have quite a few speakers - but - yes I know they are still very old!
(ii) - second - I have the crossovers, and the connectors for the pcb, still with wires intact. Do these seemingly 'puny' wires need replacing with more robust ones? I don't know which colour wires connect up to the drivers - foolishly didn't write down coding because of my rush to rescue the units! I know the bass driver has black and yellow wires - but that's all. I am no electronics expert, quite the opposite, but I am quite capable at soldering. I'm assuming, possibly erroneously, that any black wire to the bass driver would be OK but need to know to prevent possible '****-ups'. From memory the HF units were black and blue connections but since senility is creeping in I'm quite likely wrong! If I'm right deduction applies to the MF units.
I would be very grateful for some help with these questions please because I'm anxious to hear the units after such a long time. I'm also trying to resurrect my Kef 105.11's - similarly damaged - but that's another project after this one. Thank you - in anticipation. John.
Hello,
This being my new post I am likely to make a complete 'pig's ear' of it so please bear with me! Yes - I have read through the long 'Mr.White' thread but could find no information directly relevant to my needs - hence this post.
A long time ago my Mk11 Ditton 66's became badly fire and water damaged but I managed to rescue all except for one driver - one of the woofers - and the cabinets. However I very recently managed to acquire a good working one and now I am keen to 'resurrect' my units. The 'bug' is back!
I have 2 issues:
(i) - first - although the dimensions for the cabinets are stated as being 40x15x11.5 inches I don't know whether this 15" includes the top and base overhangs or indeed by how much they overhang and the dimensions for the 'triangles' that were removed on the corners? Also having read many threads here and elsewhere it has been mooted that maybe the overhangs need removing to obviate diffraction errors? Not keen on doing that unless someone has trialled it and had great results. Additionally need to know if the HF and MF units need/ought to have separate / isolated enclosures? I'm currently assuming they do. I'm also intending to use 19mm veneered mdf - which will be braced and wadded. (Will that be 'man enough'? I'm not intending to replace the caps because they are described as being virtually 'military strength' in the Mk11. Random tests have shown those tested to be within intended parameters. They were little used prior to damage because I had / still have quite a few speakers - but - yes I know they are still very old!
(ii) - second - I have the crossovers, and the connectors for the pcb, still with wires intact. Do these seemingly 'puny' wires need replacing with more robust ones? I don't know which colour wires connect up to the drivers - foolishly didn't write down coding because of my rush to rescue the units! I know the bass driver has black and yellow wires - but that's all. I am no electronics expert, quite the opposite, but I am quite capable at soldering. I'm assuming, possibly erroneously, that any black wire to the bass driver would be OK but need to know to prevent possible '****-ups'. From memory the HF units were black and blue connections but since senility is creeping in I'm quite likely wrong! If I'm right deduction applies to the MF units.
I would be very grateful for some help with these questions please because I'm anxious to hear the units after such a long time. I'm also trying to resurrect my Kef 105.11's - similarly damaged - but that's another project after this one. Thank you - in anticipation. John.
Ditton 66 (series ii) passive radiator
Guys please your help
My friend just got ( a gift!! ) Ditton 66 Series II from another friend..
But (there is always a BUT inst it???) unfortunately one the passive radiators is missing.
Do you possibly know where to find one?
PM or just a M please
Pics are enclosed (not the usual model i'm afraid looks like a cast basket here...)
thanks in advance
Harel
Guys please your help
My friend just got ( a gift!!
) Ditton 66 Series II from another friend..But (there is always a BUT inst it???) unfortunately one the passive radiators is missing.
Do you possibly know where to find one?
PM or just a M please
Pics are enclosed (not the usual model i'm afraid looks like a cast basket here...)
thanks in advance
Harel
Attachments
Hello there.
I have all the drivers from the ditton 66 and have recreated the crossovers. but without the enclosures. I am trying to recreate them.. does anybody have the baffle dimensions, ie the spacing between driver's handy ???? It would be very much appreciated as I can't find it anywhere and have been after the dimensions for some years now. many thanks..
I have all the drivers from the ditton 66 and have recreated the crossovers. but without the enclosures. I am trying to recreate them.. does anybody have the baffle dimensions, ie the spacing between driver's handy ???? It would be very much appreciated as I can't find it anywhere and have been after the dimensions for some years now. many thanks..
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