router bits for flush mounting

eisenhower · 21st December 2006, 12:23 AM

what router bits are needed for flush mounting a speaker?
That is, for the recess and hole cutout?

Tenson · 21st December 2006, 01:52 AM

A two flute straight cutter long enough to cut the thickness of the wood? you also need a circle jig. I made mine with a bit of wood and a nail! Not the best solution though.

rdr · 21st December 2006, 02:15 AM

And a 3/4 for the recess. Get carbide. I about burned down my garage with a regular one. MDF is tough on bits.

eisenhower · 21st December 2006, 02:55 AM

okay, so I want 3/4" carbide straight flute bits?

I have a jasper jig, but unfortunately it doesn't fit my black and decker plunge router. I guess I can just drill a new hole to attach it to the router.

noodle_snacks · 21st December 2006, 05:39 AM

if you have not already purchased the bits, i'd personally go for solid carbide spiral upcutting ones, the cut quality is better, and they remove the chips as they cut, leaving less heat around the bit and ultimately lasting longer.

pinkmouse · 21st December 2006, 09:02 AM

If your MDF is veneered, then I'd go for spiral downcut.

eisenhower · 25th December 2006, 05:47 PM

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5298

would something like this suffice?

noodle_snacks · 26th December 2006, 08:25 AM

Yes, but if you are planning to get a fair bit of ouse out of them, then i'd go for a really high quality, brand-name bit like CMT or Frued.

jackinnj · 26th December 2006, 01:12 PM

i use a 45 degree bevel or a chamfer bit. if you're only making one set of speakers HSS is OK.

If you get the Jasper router jig, set your center and then make the first cut the outside diameter of the speaker (to the depth required -- usually anywhere from an 1/8th to 1/4 inch), then cut the inside diameter of the speaker all the way through (in several passes). a 45 degree bevel bit can then be used for the final cut if the fit is too tight.

Helps to wear a dust mask when you do this.

Aengus · 26th December 2006, 02:02 PM

You can also cut the speaker hole and then use a bearing-guided rabbeting bit to cut the flange recess. This is useful if you are retro-(flush)fitting in an existing cabinet.

jackinnj, I second the 45-degree bit suggestion, but disagree about HSS. If you have a router, you're going to continue using the bits, either for speakers or for something else. Buy carbide-tipped (or solid-carbide, though these are quite pricey) if you can afford it at all. If you buy the good tool, you only have to buy it once - a lesson I seem to need to relearn periodically.

Regards.

Aengus

21st December 2006, 12:23 AM	#1
eisenhower diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	router bits for flush mounting what router bits are needed for flush mounting a speaker? That is, for the recess and hole cutout?

21st December 2006, 09:02 AM	#6
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	If your MDF is veneered, then I'd go for spiral downcut. __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

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21st December 2006, 01:52 AM	#2
Tenson diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Kent	A two flute straight cutter long enough to cut the thickness of the wood? you also need a circle jig. I made mine with a bit of wood and a nail! Not the best solution though.

21st December 2006, 02:15 AM	#3
rdr diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	And a 3/4 for the recess. Get carbide. I about burned down my garage with a regular one. MDF is tough on bits.

21st December 2006, 02:55 AM	#4
eisenhower diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	okay, so I want 3/4" carbide straight flute bits? I have a jasper jig, but unfortunately it doesn't fit my black and decker plunge router. I guess I can just drill a new hole to attach it to the router.

21st December 2006, 05:39 AM	#5
noodle_snacks diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hobart, Tasmania	if you have not already purchased the bits, i'd personally go for solid carbide spiral upcutting ones, the cut quality is better, and they remove the chips as they cut, leaving less heat around the bit and ultimately lasting longer.

25th December 2006, 05:47 PM	#7
eisenhower diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5298 would something like this suffice?

26th December 2006, 08:25 AM	#8
noodle_snacks diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Hobart, Tasmania	Yes, but if you are planning to get a fair bit of ouse out of them, then i'd go for a really high quality, brand-name bit like CMT or Frued.

26th December 2006, 01:12 PM	#9
jackinnj diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Llanddewi Brefi, NJ	i use a 45 degree bevel or a chamfer bit. if you're only making one set of speakers HSS is OK. If you get the Jasper router jig, set your center and then make the first cut the outside diameter of the speaker (to the depth required -- usually anywhere from an 1/8th to 1/4 inch), then cut the inside diameter of the speaker all the way through (in several passes). a 45 degree bevel bit can then be used for the final cut if the fit is too tight. Helps to wear a dust mask when you do this.

26th December 2006, 02:02 PM	#10
Aengus diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Victoria, BC	You can also cut the speaker hole and then use a bearing-guided rabbeting bit to cut the flange recess. This is useful if you are retro-(flush)fitting in an existing cabinet. jackinnj, I second the 45-degree bit suggestion, but disagree about HSS. If you have a router, you're going to continue using the bits, either for speakers or for something else. Buy carbide-tipped (or solid-carbide, though these are quite pricey) if you can afford it at all. If you buy the good tool, you only have to buy it once - a lesson I seem to need to relearn periodically. Regards. Aengus