Hi,
Newbie here with a pair of damaged TDL RTL3's (Mk1). They need one new cone and new crossover panels (I believe that's what they're called- the panels that the speaker cables connect to- excuse my ignorance!)
Can anyone suggest where to get suitable parts? They have been great speakers, and I'd hate to have to just bin them!
Have been watching e-bay, but nothing so far.
Any advice gratefully appreciated...
Newbie here with a pair of damaged TDL RTL3's (Mk1). They need one new cone and new crossover panels (I believe that's what they're called- the panels that the speaker cables connect to- excuse my ignorance!)
Can anyone suggest where to get suitable parts? They have been great speakers, and I'd hate to have to just bin them!
Have been watching e-bay, but nothing so far.
Any advice gratefully appreciated...
Hi and welcome!
I've replied to your mail which may be of some help. I just had a look on ebay and found these which will give those in the know a giggle: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TDL-RTL4-FLOO...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
"EVERY DAY I WILL RAISE THE PRICE ON THESE SPEAKERS BY £10 UNTIL A BID IS MADE"
Vikash
I've replied to your mail which may be of some help. I just had a look on ebay and found these which will give those in the know a giggle: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TDL-RTL4-FLOO...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
"EVERY DAY I WILL RAISE THE PRICE ON THESE SPEAKERS BY £10 UNTIL A BID IS MADE"
Vikash
Tell a lie, I don't have my mail server set up so here's the reply again:
Hi,
What do you mean by crossover panels? I still have the original crossovers PCB's if that's what you need? Wilmslow Audio do a driver which you can supposedly use as a replacment but it will look slighly different, and according to the specs vs my measurements it will also measure differently (see SPH-175 here: https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/acatalog/Wilmslow_Audio_Monacor_Drive_Units_17.html). Personally I think they're too expensive for something that's not a bang in replacement, and I would look on ebay as TDL RTL stuff often comes up
Vikash
Hi,
What do you mean by crossover panels? I still have the original crossovers PCB's if that's what you need? Wilmslow Audio do a driver which you can supposedly use as a replacment but it will look slighly different, and according to the specs vs my measurements it will also measure differently (see SPH-175 here: https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/acatalog/Wilmslow_Audio_Monacor_Drive_Units_17.html). Personally I think they're too expensive for something that's not a bang in replacement, and I would look on ebay as TDL RTL stuff often comes up
Vikash
Vikash, thanks for the reply...there is a component burnt out on the PCB internally, and externally some of the gold threaded terminals for the banana plugs have sheared off.....thanks for the link on replacement cones...these are still cheaper than buying new speakers if I can sort the crossover problem. From what you say however am I wasting my time?
I don't think fixing the crossover is a big problem. Replacing whichever part is burned out should be fairly straight forward if you have basic soldering skills. Which component is it? I'd add an L-Pad as mentioned on the website while you're at it.
As for the threads, just use banana plugs
You didn't mention what the actual damage to the woofer is? Personally I would try to get hold of a matching one of ebay. You might pick up a pair of RTL2's (used the same driver I think) or even 3's for a little more than the SPH-175 driver from Wilsmlow
V
As for the threads, just use banana plugs
You didn't mention what the actual damage to the woofer is? Personally I would try to get hold of a matching one of ebay. You might pick up a pair of RTL2's (used the same driver I think) or even 3's for a little more than the SPH-175 driver from Wilsmlow
V
Aparently these guys may have some of the old TDL drivers. You can only try: http://www.lockwoodaudio.co.uk/
Thanks
Can anyone tell me what this is from the photo? (Long white rectangular component on the PCB with scorch marks!)
(Sorry for such basic questions, but learning fast!)
(The terminals have sheared near the base, so banana plugs won't work, but I can solder the connection, so not a big problem)
Damage to the woofer is only a small (7 or 8mm) clean cut in the rubber at the outside edge of the cone....hard to see.
I'm not sure whether a) this will make an appreciable difference to quality, or b) whether this will get worse with use though....
Any thoughts appreciated
Can anyone tell me what this is from the photo? (Long white rectangular component on the PCB with scorch marks!)
(Sorry for such basic questions, but learning fast!)
(The terminals have sheared near the base, so banana plugs won't work, but I can solder the connection, so not a big problem)
Damage to the woofer is only a small (7 or 8mm) clean cut in the rubber at the outside edge of the cone....hard to see.
I'm not sure whether a) this will make an appreciable difference to quality, or b) whether this will get worse with use though....
Any thoughts appreciated
Attachments
That is the 10R resistor, but the other components could be damaged too. The best thing to do is desolder the PCB from the screw terminals and take a proper look as it looks like a mess in that pic.
I still have those crossover PCB's if you want to just swap them out; or if you feel like invoking the real DIYer in you than you could redo the crossover with better parts as I have done here:
http://www.vikash.info/audio/mtm_floorstander/crossover_measurements.asp
Parts cost from Madisound is around £19 for both!
2 x 6 mfd Solen Fast Cap 400V $ 3.05 $ 6.10
2 x 10 mfd Solen Fast Cap 400V $ 4.50 $ 9.00
2 x 0.25mH 19AWG Air Core Inductor $ 2.75 $ 5.50
2 x 0.67mH 19AWG Air Core Inductor $ 3.65 $ 7.30
4 x Eagle- 10 ohms $ 1.20 $ 4.80
2 x Eagle- 1 ohms $ 1.20 $ 2.40
Subtotal: $ 35.10
I still have those crossover PCB's if you want to just swap them out; or if you feel like invoking the real DIYer in you than you could redo the crossover with better parts as I have done here:
http://www.vikash.info/audio/mtm_floorstander/crossover_measurements.asp
Parts cost from Madisound is around £19 for both!
2 x 6 mfd Solen Fast Cap 400V $ 3.05 $ 6.10
2 x 10 mfd Solen Fast Cap 400V $ 4.50 $ 9.00
2 x 0.25mH 19AWG Air Core Inductor $ 2.75 $ 5.50
2 x 0.67mH 19AWG Air Core Inductor $ 3.65 $ 7.30
4 x Eagle- 10 ohms $ 1.20 $ 4.80
2 x Eagle- 1 ohms $ 1.20 $ 2.40
Subtotal: $ 35.10
i had similar problems as you mentioned and completly redid the crossover and tried a bunch of tweeters ,maybe your woofer can be glued up with some rubber cement etc, the bass from them is very good but the tweeter is a weak link,
i am now using a simple 6db low pass at 600hz and a fostex full range driver 3 inch guy in the tweeter place with a 600hz high pass and made a small sealed chamber for the fostex using a spray can cap , the sound is getting better and i might make a new baffle and mount the fostex on top with its own box
i also got the fostex from the madisound sale page and my total cost withe parts was $60
the bass is amazing for that speaker and its easily biampable so i use tubes on the fostex and a sand amp on the bass drivers
itits worth diy and fixing
i am now using a simple 6db low pass at 600hz and a fostex full range driver 3 inch guy in the tweeter place with a 600hz high pass and made a small sealed chamber for the fostex using a spray can cap , the sound is getting better and i might make a new baffle and mount the fostex on top with its own box
i also got the fostex from the madisound sale page and my total cost withe parts was $60
the bass is amazing for that speaker and its easily biampable so i use tubes on the fostex and a sand amp on the bass drivers
itits worth diy and fixing
I bought the RTL-2 speaker when they were new back in the 90's. They were by for the best thing in the shop (at a price I could afford, about £300).
After a few days of listening at home, It became apparent that the tweeters were (as mentioned above) a weak link. In fact I thought they had some particularly noticable problems, especially apparent with sibilant vocal sounds.
At the time, the Maplin catalogue was my only real source of parts, to I ordered the best tweeter I could find. This was an Audax unit with polymer dome, coated with a layer of titanium. It also had a thick aluminium faceplate (Which I had to get turned down marginally to fit the original baffle cut-out). The cost added about 10% to the price of the speakers...
The tweeter change improved the sound quality significantly. I continued experimenting, lining the interior of the cabinets with carpet and swapping out the capacitors in the crossover for polypropylene types. I did not attempt to replace the inductors, as no values were marked. I do suspect that these would benefit from replacement as the orginals are inexpensive ferrite core types.
I would definitely recommend using an (any...) alternative tweeter, as the design is the basis for a rather good loudspeaker in my opinion.
Cheers,
Ed
After a few days of listening at home, It became apparent that the tweeters were (as mentioned above) a weak link. In fact I thought they had some particularly noticable problems, especially apparent with sibilant vocal sounds.
At the time, the Maplin catalogue was my only real source of parts, to I ordered the best tweeter I could find. This was an Audax unit with polymer dome, coated with a layer of titanium. It also had a thick aluminium faceplate (Which I had to get turned down marginally to fit the original baffle cut-out). The cost added about 10% to the price of the speakers...
The tweeter change improved the sound quality significantly. I continued experimenting, lining the interior of the cabinets with carpet and swapping out the capacitors in the crossover for polypropylene types. I did not attempt to replace the inductors, as no values were marked. I do suspect that these would benefit from replacement as the orginals are inexpensive ferrite core types.
I would definitely recommend using an (any...) alternative tweeter, as the design is the basis for a rather good loudspeaker in my opinion.
Cheers,
Ed
Vikash, you are a wealth of information!
I'll take it apart as you suggest to see what's what....may take you up on kind offer of the PCB's if all else fails.
I'm not sure how the damage happened...they were requisitioned for a party in my absence by my flatmates back in student days and this was the result!
Lesson learned....
I'll take it apart as you suggest to see what's what....may take you up on kind offer of the PCB's if all else fails.
I'm not sure how the damage happened...they were requisitioned for a party in my absence by my flatmates back in student days and this was the result!
Lesson learned....
I've been shocked how good these sound with the new crossover parts, solid cabinet, padding the tweeter down a bit, and moving from ported to sealed. Not sure how much difference each makes individually but it is a very solid speaker bar the thatchy sounding tweeter. If I had just padded down the tweeter and replaced all the crossover parts on the original cabs then that would have an similar improvement I think. I do have some spare Yamaha tweeters lying around of the same dia. but much much deeper. I may have to get the router out on the new cabs to get them to fit which is what's stopping me from trying them out.Ed Holland said:
I've been there! Had two bass units and a tweeter replaced in their early years. A combination of student use and underpowering I suspectbertieduff said:I'm not sure how the damage happened...they were requisitioned for a party in my absence by my flatmates back in student days and this was the result!
Lesson learned....
Does anyone have basic plans for the cabinet? Vikash - it seems that you have re-engineered a pair of TDL's
My understanding, and observations from working on my RTL2s is that there is a long shallow channel running down from the back of the main chamber, with a port at the bottom of the cabinet. However, what I could not see is whether this is direct, or folded in some way.
Info would be appreciated
Cheers,
Ed
My understanding, and observations from working on my RTL2s is that there is a long shallow channel running down from the back of the main chamber, with a port at the bottom of the cabinet. However, what I could not see is whether this is direct, or folded in some way.
Info would be appreciated
Cheers,
Ed
hi looked at my notes and the tweeter croses at 3k,and is padded down to match the woofers,the monocaor run at 89db,so there can be a lot of tweeters to play with
it is a ported cab with a angled bandpass type port i suspect its to tune the box fb lower in a helmholtz fashion, so you can get some bass extension with the box port close to the floor
worth the diy effort as they retailed for $900 in 1995.
it is a ported cab with a angled bandpass type port i suspect its to tune the box fb lower in a helmholtz fashion, so you can get some bass extension with the box port close to the floor
worth the diy effort as they retailed for $900 in 1995.
Hello all, similar sort of topic going on here. I aquired a pair of tdl 3's at a reasonable price, theres lots to like about them in my opinion,but I definitely get the impression theres room for improvement.
I arent technically minded, I can solder, replace drive units, but thats pretty much the extent of my electrical prowess.
I have read on several forums that upgrading the crossover components is a good way of improving the electronics and also that some have upgraded the drive units, tweeters and woofers.
What I am wondering is how would I find out what components I need to upgrade the crossovers and also what drive units are considered worthy upgrades.
I also get the impression that the cabinets arent that great on the tdl's. I am pretty adept with my hands regarding woodworking and I recognize that it would be important to not alter the internal volume of the cabinet, but I can see ways around this, am not entirely sure it would be cost effective, but I arent too concerned with that, I hope this makes sense.
Anybody information, advice or help would be greatly appreciated, thanks, ed.
I arent technically minded, I can solder, replace drive units, but thats pretty much the extent of my electrical prowess.
I have read on several forums that upgrading the crossover components is a good way of improving the electronics and also that some have upgraded the drive units, tweeters and woofers.
What I am wondering is how would I find out what components I need to upgrade the crossovers and also what drive units are considered worthy upgrades.
I also get the impression that the cabinets arent that great on the tdl's. I am pretty adept with my hands regarding woodworking and I recognize that it would be important to not alter the internal volume of the cabinet, but I can see ways around this, am not entirely sure it would be cost effective, but I arent too concerned with that, I hope this makes sense.
Anybody information, advice or help would be greatly appreciated, thanks, ed.
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