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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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I'm building a powered kids retro cabinet in a classic SBB4 alignment and have two very different drivers that will work in the same box and here are my two options:
1- Audax 4 ohm full range coax (simple cap built into the tweeter) http://www.madisound.com/pdf/audax/vp130g2.pdf 2- Vifa 8 ohm midwoofah (no crossover/no tweeter) http://www.madisound.com/pdf/vifa/mg14wk09-08e.pdf Which one would you choose? The astounding response of the Vifa but only up to about 5-10kHz or the full-range but response-marred Audax? Why? Thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Leeds, UK
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Can't you put a cheap tweeter with the Vifa? (btw it's more like a 6" driver than and 8"
Of the two I'd go for the Audax as you could probably go some way to removing the peaks with your own crossover. With the Vifa you can't add the high frequency output that isn't there in the first place. You have to take manufacturers figures with a huge bucket of salt, so many things can effect how a drive unit measures I've found it's only really reliable to compare graphs of two drivers made and measured by the same manufacturer. If I were using the Audax the first thing I'd do would be to put a resistor in series with the tweeter to bring it to roughly the same level as the woofer. You could also try reversing the polarity of the tweeter which might get rid of the large dip in the middle of the graph, although I doubt the crossover will be 1st order at ~1.5khz with the look of tweeter used but you never know The drive unit you've picked there is an automotive drive unit, which are normally listened to a fair bit off axis which would explain the extra high frequency output. As you can see from what I assume is the 45 degree plot on the graph it looks a lot smoother once you get off axis. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Nebraska Panhandle
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I think any of these would be good choices, and may well work better for your app. You could consider adding a cheap tweeter to the Vifa. I bet a piezo would do the trick.
The Tang Band is a bit more $$, but with it's large excursion, it should be capable of decent SPL's. It has great extension, works in a fairly small enclosure, and is probably the smoothest of the lot. The Pioneer gets to 13K or so and is smoother than the Coax. Not much Xmax, but not much $$. The MCM is a little more ragged, but I bet it will still be flatter than the Coax, and has an octave on the vifa. It should have a good bit of headroom on the Pioneer, and the price is right. Tang Band W4-1320SA http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-828 Pioneer A11 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-010 MCM 55-1870 http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...5Fid=55%2D1870 good luck, pj |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...uma/index.html
Hi, look no further than the above for a portable retro boom box. If its not portable then there is no point in making a boom box compared to normal speakers, with built in amplifiers or not. Very good cheap design : http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker13.html |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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This is all going into a very small box so I'm running out of space to cut holes. Again I was going for a real simple minimalist approach.
I got some excellent Vifa 3/4" DX19 tweeters on standby though |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
Thanks |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Leeds, UK
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I'd just put a 3w wirewound in and measure it, starting at something reasonable like 3.3ohms and go up or down depending on the relative level.
Make sure you put it on the amp side of the capacitor though, or it will alter the tweeters crossover frequency. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Leeds, UK
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Well ok, it will have much less effect on the amp side
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