hi everyone. after my dad's boss heard my beolab 5 clones, he asked me to build him some speakers for his bedroom. a negotiable budget of $3000 for a pair has been established, but im havin trouble selecting the drivers.
im thinking about 2 of these (per speaker) as the bass:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-568
Im not sure about the tweet, (supertweet, if needed), and the mid-bass.
any opinions?
im thinking about 2 of these (per speaker) as the bass:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-568
Im not sure about the tweet, (supertweet, if needed), and the mid-bass.
any opinions?
With all that money, ... I would advice to build something well measured by an experienced man, and build that
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
At the moment I would use a 12" Beyma 12B100/R
with this mid
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w4-1129c.htm
And a ribbon on top
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
At the moment I would use a 12" Beyma 12B100/R
with this mid
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w4-1129c.htm
And a ribbon on top
Your biography says 12yars and going to highscool... or am I missing something ?
I guess your dads boss is a nice man, and rich
But fore bedroom .... I would say double CSS WR125st with a small ribbon
And two subs with double Adire Exstremis with plateamps
Nice and easy... to fall asleep with, or whatever he.....
I guess your dads boss is a nice man, and rich
But fore bedroom .... I would say double CSS WR125st with a small ribbon
And two subs with double Adire Exstremis with plateamps
Nice and easy... to fall asleep with, or whatever he.....
Yeah I was not going to say anything, but are you sure you are so confident in your skills you will accept $4,000 for them?
While I like pro drivers the smaller ones seem to have nasty peaks around 2.5KHz which would make them a bit tricky to use in a 2-way. A 3-way is a bit tricky also simply because there is more to go wrong.
As such, I would use the AudioTechnology C-Quenze 18 H 52 in a ported slim profile cabinet. Use a 2nd order lowpass at 2KHz. Calculate the baffle step compensation needed for the baffle size and apply that. Then get the Hi-Vi RT8II tweeters and give it a 2nd order highpass at 2KHz.
I might even get another C-Quenze 18 H 52 for each speaker and make it a MTM or TMM design for more bass dynamics, shouldn't have too many problems doing that with a 2KHz Xover point as long as you keep all the drivers near each other. Might need too much cabinet volume though.
The Hi-Vi planar-mag tweeters are some of the very best measuring tweeters I have ever come across. The AudioTechnology, while not the best measuring drivers do sound great and lots of people like them. They Should also be easy enough to work with and give you a 'state of the art' speaker.
While I like pro drivers the smaller ones seem to have nasty peaks around 2.5KHz which would make them a bit tricky to use in a 2-way. A 3-way is a bit tricky also simply because there is more to go wrong.
As such, I would use the AudioTechnology C-Quenze 18 H 52 in a ported slim profile cabinet. Use a 2nd order lowpass at 2KHz. Calculate the baffle step compensation needed for the baffle size and apply that. Then get the Hi-Vi RT8II tweeters and give it a 2nd order highpass at 2KHz.
I might even get another C-Quenze 18 H 52 for each speaker and make it a MTM or TMM design for more bass dynamics, shouldn't have too many problems doing that with a 2KHz Xover point as long as you keep all the drivers near each other. Might need too much cabinet volume though.
The Hi-Vi planar-mag tweeters are some of the very best measuring tweeters I have ever come across. The AudioTechnology, while not the best measuring drivers do sound great and lots of people like them. They Should also be easy enough to work with and give you a 'state of the art' speaker.
i only need the drivers to get down to 100 hz. his subs take care of the rest.
AND, the drivers have to be clear,crisp, but not boomy.
ill post pics of the beolabs as soon as my dad's camera comes back from Sony. whenever that may be.
monday come, i'll have the design sketch posted.
i have received word from the man himself, ill be using this as the tweeter 100%. so thats 600 dollars off each speaker. $900 left for the rest of the drivers.
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=8221901.28424&pid=352
the CROSSOVER and cabinet IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICING.
he will have the crossover custom ordered.
AND, the drivers have to be clear,crisp, but not boomy.
ill post pics of the beolabs as soon as my dad's camera comes back from Sony. whenever that may be.
monday come, i'll have the design sketch posted.
i have received word from the man himself, ill be using this as the tweeter 100%. so thats 600 dollars off each speaker. $900 left for the rest of the drivers.
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=8221901.28424&pid=352
the CROSSOVER and cabinet IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICING.
he will have the crossover custom ordered.
If he is picking the drivers and having the crossover made by someone, what exactly are you doing? Building the cabinet?
I would still pick the Hi-Vi ribbon above that tweeter as the Hi-Vi ribbons are some of the very best I have ever come across and make it so much easier to mate with a woofer than the one you just posted.
You now need a driver that can cover 100Hz-8KHz without much off-axis drop. That will be hard to find I think. So you will be going 3 way just for 100Hz-45KHz and then subs on the bottom end. That is a complex system with a lot to go wrong integration wise.
Look at this design that uses a similar tweeter http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/realitycheck2/kalinowksi.html
I would still pick the Hi-Vi ribbon above that tweeter as the Hi-Vi ribbons are some of the very best I have ever come across and make it so much easier to mate with a woofer than the one you just posted.
You now need a driver that can cover 100Hz-8KHz without much off-axis drop. That will be hard to find I think. So you will be going 3 way just for 100Hz-45KHz and then subs on the bottom end. That is a complex system with a lot to go wrong integration wise.
Look at this design that uses a similar tweeter http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/realitycheck2/kalinowksi.html
spent almost half the money on a useless super tweeter
why don't you make a 500$ cost pair of loudspeaker
then ask him all the 3000$
let him use it and SAY WOW
and then give him back 2000$ just to laugh at him ..
common , why do you need 3000$ for drivers and 4000$ for work to build a set of loudpseaker
at that price he could've bought a commercial high end unit, wich will probably have a finish and quality that you will not be able to reach
( yes some high end stuff are good, and one cannot have the same finish at home within reasonnable cost and time .. )
this is just throwing money in the wind
but neway , if you really got this contract, congrats!
but try and make the most of it!
then ask him all the 3000$
let him use it and SAY WOW
and then give him back 2000$ just to laugh at him ..
common , why do you need 3000$ for drivers and 4000$ for work to build a set of loudpseaker
at that price he could've bought a commercial high end unit, wich will probably have a finish and quality that you will not be able to reach
( yes some high end stuff are good, and one cannot have the same finish at home within reasonnable cost and time .. )
this is just throwing money in the wind
but neway , if you really got this contract, congrats!
but try and make the most of it!
tinitus said:
BTW....I forgot to mention that the 10" TAD alnico might be fine with the Accuton C 45/7
Personally I would do that
Now that’s a very nice design
I agree, do that if you must use that silly super-tweeter.If you are the expert for hire by the way, then there is no harm in telling the guy that his choice of tweeter is not suitable - that’s what he is paying you for! You don't need to use it just because he likes the idea of a $700 tweeter.
As I understand its a total 4000USD
Lets see, 10" TAD woofer, Thiel/Accuton 2", Fostex supertweeter - commercially it would probable cost more like 10.000USD
Thanks Tenson, glad you like the idea - and it seems we agree it would be perfect with a small ribbon above 10khz...Raven, AurumCantus G2 or similar
Lengendaryfrog, its quality dream drivers, about as good as it gets
Lets see, 10" TAD woofer, Thiel/Accuton 2", Fostex supertweeter - commercially it would probable cost more like 10.000USD
Thanks Tenson, glad you like the idea - and it seems we agree it would be perfect with a small ribbon above 10khz...Raven, AurumCantus G2 or similar
Lengendaryfrog, its quality dream drivers, about as good as it gets
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