Scrap enclosure because of uneven sides and back panel not flush?

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I am construting JohnK's (Zaph) Hi-Vi BS3 project. I have already assembled the front, sides, top, and bottom of the enclosure. I noticed that the sides on both of the enclosures were slightly higher then the bottom and top so I (stupidly) sanded down the sides with an orbital sander. Hence my problem... Because I didn't sand the sides down level the rear panel of my enclosure does not sit flush with the rest of the enclosure.

Is there anything that I can do to rescue this project? I trired leveling the sides with wood glue and mdf saw dust but that didn't work. I also filled the boxes with shorthair fiberglass so the inside is not level enough to add a brace to act as a guide for a flush bit.

Thanks in advance.
 
You need the right tools to do a good DIY job and I would suggest as good fence and a router is a must.

This is an example of a great fence and you don't have to muck about with timber and clamps as a fence which can get in the way when sawing.
http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_8360_8370

There's a saw base which is not needed as you run the saw against the fence but gives you an idea how it works.
http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_8360_8400

A router is a must for DIY loudspeakers.... period.

I'd suggest you saw off the back panel (using a fence as a straight guide), cut a new panel a bit oversize, glue on and then trim the overhang with a router and trimming bit.

Anything can be fixed with patience and time.
 
Another option - which would decrease the box volume somewhat, could you not recut the backpanel to fit inside the box?

I also think you have to cut more slowly. I have better cuts freehand :D
With a straightedge and cutting slowly, make sure the base of the saw is riding along the straightedge the whole length of the base.
 
Any cutting tool when combined with a straight-edge and some clamps will work wonders for those who can't afford/justify a table saw.

When I make my rough cuts, I clamp a known-straight piece of MDF into position so that my circular saw can ride along it throughout the cut. The result is a very straight edge. I do have to admit though, that even with a cheap jig saw, you should be able to get close enough free-handed that once you screw the panels together, the MDF will fit tight or very close to it.

If you're interested in learning how to build a professional looking box with virtually no tools, let me know and I'll type it out. It's a lot of typing, so I don't want to do it for no reason.
 
Thanks for all of the responses. I think I will try to find someone with a tablesaw that can help me out.

I started the project using the straight edge and then got lazy and tried to free hand the rest of the cuts... It obviously came back to bite me.

I do have a fairly good 2.5 Hp Skil router w/ matching router table and the Jasper circle jig set. Hopefully my fiance will buy me the Ryobi BT3000 tablesaw that I listed on my X-Mas wish list.

Jim85IROC said:
If you're interested in learning how to build a professional looking box with virtually no tools, let me know and I'll type it out. It's a lot of typing, so I don't want to do it for no reason.

Thanks for the offer Jim. But I have a bookmark of a site explaining how to build an enclosure with just a handsaw.
 
omarmipi said:

Thanks for the offer Jim. But I have a bookmark of a site explaining how to build an enclosure with just a handsaw.
Care to share the link? Building a nice enclosure with a handsaw is certainly a different approach than my method, so I'd like to read it and see if I can learn a thing or two.

Since you have a router, you have everything you need to build a good enclosure following my method.
 
"I trired leveling the sides with wood glue and mdf saw dust but that didn't work."

Well, if you don't cut the boxes down, then Bond-o (tm) autobody filler would probably work to bring the sides flush. I have used it to fill nicks in test enclosures with pretty good results. By its nature, it is highly sandable. You could use the two ends as a reference to flush, and screed across with a straight edge. You want the two-part stuff, not the one part glazing that is made to fill very shallow marring. Napa or Autozone or whatever automotive chain store you can find locally will carry it.

Gorilla glue (I use the cheaper Elmer's variety) will go a long way to fill any unevenness that remains after you get the sides close to flush. It sounds a little ghetto, but it will get your boxes rolling until you find someone with a tablesaw, or can afford your own. Given the relatively low internal pressure and the rigidity of these small boxes, I sincerely doubt that you would ever tell the difference between a bond-o'ed box and a properly constructed one. Once you finish the box, the repair should be undetectable.

Hope this helps.

Note: sometimes it is difficult to achieve proper adhesion with this type of autobody filler if the area to be fill is extremely shallow; just a heads-up.
 
omarmipi said:
I started the project using the straight edge and then got lazy and tried to free hand the rest of the cuts... It obviously came back to bite me.
I'll second what has been said. I can make near perfect cuts with a hand saw or a jig saw, and I occasionally make horrible cuts with my table saw. One simply needs to focus on keeping on line and don't wait to correct as soon as you notice the need. (obvious, but easier said than done sometimes)
 
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