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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am construting JohnK's (Zaph) Hi-Vi BS3 project. I have already assembled the front, sides, top, and bottom of the enclosure. I noticed that the sides on both of the enclosures were slightly higher then the bottom and top so I (stupidly) sanded down the sides with an orbital sander. Hence my problem... Because I didn't sand the sides down level the rear panel of my enclosure does not sit flush with the rest of the enclosure.
Is there anything that I can do to rescue this project? I trired leveling the sides with wood glue and mdf saw dust but that didn't work. I also filled the boxes with shorthair fiberglass so the inside is not level enough to add a brace to act as a guide for a flush bit. Thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Can you show us a pic or two?
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Sure can... when I get home I'll snap some pictures. At least I got the chance to practice asthetics (filling in voids, sanding, priming, sealing). |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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unless I totally misunderstand, couldn't you run the back edges through a table saw and take off just a hair to make it straight and square again?
You'll make the enclosure smaller, but only by a very small amount.. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Put rubber or felt feet on the bottom. Then it doesn't matter whether the rear is flush with the bottom.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
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You need the right tools to do a good DIY job and I would suggest as good fence and a router is a must.
This is an example of a great fence and you don't have to muck about with timber and clamps as a fence which can get in the way when sawing. http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind...h=60_8360_8370 There's a saw base which is not needed as you run the saw against the fence but gives you an idea how it works. http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind...h=60_8360_8400 A router is a must for DIY loudspeakers.... period. I'd suggest you saw off the back panel (using a fence as a straight guide), cut a new panel a bit oversize, glue on and then trim the overhang with a router and trimming bit. Anything can be fixed with patience and time.
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No longer DIY active |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 12km off the alaska highway in northern BC
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Another option - which would decrease the box volume somewhat, could you not recut the backpanel to fit inside the box?
I also think you have to cut more slowly. I have better cuts freehand With a straightedge and cutting slowly, make sure the base of the saw is riding along the straightedge the whole length of the base. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Any cutting tool when combined with a straight-edge and some clamps will work wonders for those who can't afford/justify a table saw.
When I make my rough cuts, I clamp a known-straight piece of MDF into position so that my circular saw can ride along it throughout the cut. The result is a very straight edge. I do have to admit though, that even with a cheap jig saw, you should be able to get close enough free-handed that once you screw the panels together, the MDF will fit tight or very close to it. If you're interested in learning how to build a professional looking box with virtually no tools, let me know and I'll type it out. It's a lot of typing, so I don't want to do it for no reason. |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Uneven distance from back wall? | Lewis Moon | Multi-Way | 0 | 5th October 2008 10:12 PM |
| Enclosure w/ curved sides, need your help | MITMechE | Multi-Way | 14 | 1st April 2004 11:08 PM |
| How to make a durable back panel? | tktran | Multi-Way | 4 | 24th February 2004 05:41 PM |
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