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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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I wondering what type of amplifier is suitable for bass drivers in open baffle.
I have two 15" per side spl=98db but I go active with some boost. I know that is power eating and I need an amp with high damper factor but I ask. Do you think A class is suitable for that or should I go in AB class amps?
__________________
"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." https://picasaweb.google.com/115586837612433686520 |
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#2 |
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General Nuisance
diyAudio Member
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I would definitely use a Class-AB amp for this application.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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Class D? Cheaper?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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Class D?...hmmmm...maybe or maybe not.......Don't forget the quality....quality makes the difference....and that is on top on my preferences.
__________________
"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." https://picasaweb.google.com/115586837612433686520 |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Digital is the way to go! Clean and crispy bass. Ideal match for dipole woofers.
I am currently running my dipole sub-woofers with Icepower 1000ASP digital amps via Behringer DCX2496. That gives me a lot of headroom. Some might call that overkill. ![]() I think the hypex UCD modules are a real good choice too. 4 channel T-AMPs at 180$ rated 4*100W should do very well. You'd get the same gain, input characteristics and sonic characteristics troughout your system . I am thinking by myself trying that. Audiodigit and 41Hz offers them. Consider - If you equalize your subs in the low-ends you need quite some extra power for the low-end. It'll heavily depend on the drivers QTS though. Klaus |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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@soundcheck
Yes ,you have right about eq.It's needed a little extra power. The qts is 1,25....and maybe not too much eq.....but still a little,yes. ![]() Tell me more about the "quality" of T amps...you know...the noise,the warm ..and other things,because...I still have 95db per driver and on that spl any noise is easy detectable.
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"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." https://picasaweb.google.com/115586837612433686520 |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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I think it is a generally accepted postulate that the amplifier quality matters much less in the low frequency area, which is why Class D or Class G amps are very acceptable for subwoofer use, but somewhat questionable for full range use. I may be wrong here.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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Hmmmm....The main driver is 8" Supravox full range and I will go for them with tube amps.
But for the bass drivers it seems a little bit extra power...considering eq. Still ....I'm looking for the best suitable amp for that...high dumping factor,fast slew/rate responce,wide band freqv....etc.
__________________
"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." https://picasaweb.google.com/115586837612433686520 |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Look for the trendsaudio 100$ amp and the 6 moons review!
And read the >100 threads about t-Amps. Then you know more about T-Amp. ![]() I am runnung a modded Charlize T-Amp by myself and I am very happy with it. I think it's the way to go and forget about the tube hassle. You need a nice sounding highquality and fast amp for the lower mids/upperbass.For the crossover area (probably around 100Hz) it's best if the amps do have the same sonic and electric characteristics and quality. Otherwise the sub-amps mess up your lower mids! And from 60Hz upwards sonic characterisics do matter. Cheers |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Leuven
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Quote:
Simon |
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