I notice that quite often when I see pictures of people in the process of making a good looking set of speakers that they more often than not are using a pretty basic table saw. i used to have a cheap Craftsman saw, but trying to get both ends of the rail equal distance from the blade was almost impossible and was more trouble than the cuts it made were worth.
I am now in the market for a new saw, and it looks like even the ones in the $200 range have that new decent design of guide rail that aligns itself when you press the lever down. Does anyone have experience with these cheaper table saws who can make me a recommendation? i can't spend more than about $250, so I want to get one that has proven itself. There sure are alot in that price range.
I am now in the market for a new saw, and it looks like even the ones in the $200 range have that new decent design of guide rail that aligns itself when you press the lever down. Does anyone have experience with these cheaper table saws who can make me a recommendation? i can't spend more than about $250, so I want to get one that has proven itself. There sure are alot in that price range.
Flimsy fences are the bain of cheap woodworking machines and in many cases it is worth the time and effort to make a new fence or modify the origional one. At the very least make some arrangement to securly clamp the fence at both ends.
The second big problem is blade vibration and/or a poorly aligned blade. Its often not possible to try cheap saws first but dont be affraid to return the machine if the saw blade does not run tru or the motor has excesive vibration. Look for a saw with an induction motor rather than a brush type...inductions are now appearing on cheaper machines. Adding mass to the machine can also help obtain a better quality of cut.
Decent results can be had from these cheapies, you have to sacrifice speed of use to get decent results, not usualy a problem for DIY use.
Paul.
The second big problem is blade vibration and/or a poorly aligned blade. Its often not possible to try cheap saws first but dont be affraid to return the machine if the saw blade does not run tru or the motor has excesive vibration. Look for a saw with an induction motor rather than a brush type...inductions are now appearing on cheaper machines. Adding mass to the machine can also help obtain a better quality of cut.
Decent results can be had from these cheapies, you have to sacrifice speed of use to get decent results, not usualy a problem for DIY use.
Paul.
I use this Craftsman and am quite happy with it. Plus it folds up and opens in about 5 seconds.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...cal=TOOL&subcat=Table+Saws&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
My last project required many cuts mostly angled and/or with blade tilted and the saw was spot on. The fence is very accurate and solid also.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...cal=TOOL&subcat=Table+Saws&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
My last project required many cuts mostly angled and/or with blade tilted and the saw was spot on. The fence is very accurate and solid also.
I have a woodcraft table saw that I got for about $500 about 6 years ago. Very solid taple which a pretty good fence. I have a friend who built his own bessmier knockoff that works really really well. It wasn't very expensive and is exactly what he wanted, he has built in dust collection for a router table built in to the right side of his table.
DIY tools are the same as DIY audio, you can get more tool for your money and get exactly what you want. And the DIY tool is then used to build more DIY tools or DIY speakers or DIY bookshelves etc. It's a bootstrapping process.
With a table saw you want a stable table, a good sturdy fence, and a sturdy stable repeatable blade positioning system. If you are going to re-do or buy a used fence, then you need to check out the blade trunions and all the mechanicals surrounding how the blade works. That's what is important in a table saw.
BTW, Harbor freight has a table saw that the saw itself is quite beefy, good looking underneath. Hopefully the castings are high precision enough not to bind etc. The fence looks OK, but not amazing, but the saw itself looks like a solid base to build from. I'm not a fan of chinese tools, but any $200 saw you buy will be chinese.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46813
Have you considered finding a used (antique) saw? My bandsaw is from 1938 and is fantastic, I'm still using the original delta motor and v-belt. I paid $200 for it.
Also keep in mind that a stable table saw gets it's stability from mass. My table saw weights 300 lbs, and it's a cheap POS. A cabinet makers saw is more like 500 lbs. I can't imagine trying to feed big sheets of MDF through a 40 lb contractors saw on spindly legs.
Sheldon
DIY tools are the same as DIY audio, you can get more tool for your money and get exactly what you want. And the DIY tool is then used to build more DIY tools or DIY speakers or DIY bookshelves etc. It's a bootstrapping process.
With a table saw you want a stable table, a good sturdy fence, and a sturdy stable repeatable blade positioning system. If you are going to re-do or buy a used fence, then you need to check out the blade trunions and all the mechanicals surrounding how the blade works. That's what is important in a table saw.
BTW, Harbor freight has a table saw that the saw itself is quite beefy, good looking underneath. Hopefully the castings are high precision enough not to bind etc. The fence looks OK, but not amazing, but the saw itself looks like a solid base to build from. I'm not a fan of chinese tools, but any $200 saw you buy will be chinese.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46813
Have you considered finding a used (antique) saw? My bandsaw is from 1938 and is fantastic, I'm still using the original delta motor and v-belt. I paid $200 for it.
Also keep in mind that a stable table saw gets it's stability from mass. My table saw weights 300 lbs, and it's a cheap POS. A cabinet makers saw is more like 500 lbs. I can't imagine trying to feed big sheets of MDF through a 40 lb contractors saw on spindly legs.
Sheldon
I got something from B&Q about a year back called a Pro something.
It works nicely now but I did have to adjust both the fence and the blade to get it to cut straight. Just a few bits of carefully chosen metal in the right places to angle it differently. Once I got it right though, I have not had to change it. The one at the wood-yard still cuts better mind!
It works nicely now but I did have to adjust both the fence and the blade to get it to cut straight. Just a few bits of carefully chosen metal in the right places to angle it differently. Once I got it right though, I have not had to change it. The one at the wood-yard still cuts better mind!
Rather than spend the money on another head ache, buy a good used one or just get another fence. I have a vintage Craftsmen saw that I can make excellent cuts with. The fence sux but I alway check the alignment with a square.
The next step is to buy some good blades. A cheap blade will flex on you and allow for bad cuts. A good blade makes a smother cut and allows for less flex. I use Freud blades at about $50 a wack for the 10" and $75 for the 12's. If you don't spend the money for a good blade, then a new saw is not going to help
The next step is to buy some good blades. A cheap blade will flex on you and allow for bad cuts. A good blade makes a smother cut and allows for less flex. I use Freud blades at about $50 a wack for the 10" and $75 for the 12's. If you don't spend the money for a good blade, then a new saw is not going to help
You might be able to find a Ryobi BT3100 at your local Home Depot for $239. That model is discontinued but there's still some floating around in the stores.
Jon Marsh over at the Home Theater Guide has made some complex stuff on his. Read this thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=3430
I have an older version of that model and have turned out some decent looking cabinets with mine:
Jon Marsh over at the Home Theater Guide has made some complex stuff on his. Read this thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=3430
I have an older version of that model and have turned out some decent looking cabinets with mine:
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Thin kerf refers not to the diameter of the blade but to the width of the cut (approx 1/8 for regular and 3/32 for thin kerf).
By the way I have a Unisaw (heavy cabinet style saw) and I don't like to cut large panels on it. I use a circular saw with a blade guide (EZ Smart) to break down sheet goods.
Earl
By the way I have a Unisaw (heavy cabinet style saw) and I don't like to cut large panels on it. I use a circular saw with a blade guide (EZ Smart) to break down sheet goods.
Earl
In my experience, thin kerf blades are not worth the hassle. The cut smoothness suffers for no real advantage.
I've got a Freud 410 from woodworker's supply (~$100) and it's a wonderful blade. It makes cuts smooth as glass.
I've never tried the $50 freud blades, but my $100 one is amazing, and I've got their dado set (super dado) that is equally nice.
Sheldon
I've got a Freud 410 from woodworker's supply (~$100) and it's a wonderful blade. It makes cuts smooth as glass.
I've never tried the $50 freud blades, but my $100 one is amazing, and I've got their dado set (super dado) that is equally nice.
Sheldon
The Ryobi BT3100 is a very good machine for an affordable price. The sliding miter table feature is a very useful device, especially if you can't afford a decent miter saw. Having an integrated router-table is also a really nice feature on this saw. I encouraged my sister to get one and use it quite frequently when helping her with home improvement and other garage projects. I think that you would find it a great device in your price range. Some of the smaller bench-top units are also ok. My brother-in-laws father swears by the makita bench top unit and uses it about as often as his Delta Unisaw (because of portability).
The only trouble I've seen with the BT3100 is that the riving knife and blade guard are bolted in place and you need to remove them to use a dado blade. So it's a hassle to do dado's and grooves.
I do quite a bit of cabinetry (other than speaker building) and having seperate machines is the best situation but given a budget, I really do like the BT3100.
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Danny
The only trouble I've seen with the BT3100 is that the riving knife and blade guard are bolted in place and you need to remove them to use a dado blade. So it's a hassle to do dado's and grooves.
I do quite a bit of cabinetry (other than speaker building) and having seperate machines is the best situation but given a budget, I really do like the BT3100.
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Danny
How 'bout the Ryobi BTS15 that is the current model?
http://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/tool/bts15/
http://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/tool/bts15/
stokessd said:
Sorry, but I would disagree with this. Thin kerf blades are typically 3/16th of an inch compared to 1/4" of full-kerf blades. Because they are 25% smaller, your tablesaw has to do 25% less work to cut wood. This means that smaller tablesaws (3/4hp and 1hp is typically for your low end <$600 saw) will have an easier time cutting larger stock (>2" thick). Ripping 8/4 hickory on a full-kerf blade in a 3/4hp saw is an exercise in patience. IMO, they also tend to be quieter.
If you have a 2hp or 3hp Unisaw, then you may find that the slightly heavier full kerf blades could have slightly more stability which translates to a smoother cut. But I, and many cabinet maker friends swear by thin-kerf blades. The $50 frued blades are really good for their money.
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Danny
If I'm doing lots of ripping, I use a thin kerf, otherwise I stick to a standard fine crosscut blade. I have the Dewalt site saw, from when I was doing lots of building work, but it's not bad in the workshop either, and it has a very solid fence with lots of handy grooves for custom jigs. Not the cheapest, but very solid.
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