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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Italy
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Hi everybody, I'm in point of realizing a 4 way speaker with TL bass loading
I want to use all SS drivers:Tweeter http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/pd...904_710003.pdf Mid http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/pd...2M_4831G00.pdf Midw http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/pd...5W_4831G00.pdf Woofer http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/pd...2W_8851T00.pdf or http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/pd...6W_8861T00.pdf ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now question is: I noticed that these woofers have a low Qts, so could they be efficiently loaded in a TL way ? I like very much these drivers but I must be sure that I can do the TL as I projected it. Any suggestions Bye Simon |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hmmmm...........
Electronics and Acoustics engineer ? Your bass units need to be 4dB to 6dB more sensitive than the mid. Generally speaking lower Qts drivers need to be used reflexed. In a TL the low amount of damping required to bring the bass up generally causes problems with dips in the upper bass, damping the upper bass effectively kills the lower bass. 3.5 way is the sort of thing you need. e.g. : http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/8543.htm |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Italy
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First of all, building loudspeakers is only an hobby for me. I usually spend my time in ambiental acoustics and architectonics.
If you are speaking about correct alignment of SPL, this is not a problem because I'll use compensation resistors to reduce SPL of upper ways. Different is the speech about the woofer. Do you think a Morel would be better than a SS for TL or I've to make do with a "simple" reflex? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Italy
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up
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Finland
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I'm not familiar with TL cabinets but I started wondering your driver selection. 1" dome, 4" uppermid, 5" lowermid and 8" woofer. So a 4-way with very similar size drivers. Personally I'd expect 4-way to reach all the way from top to bottom and have proper drivers for each range. How did you come up with these? Just because all of them are from SS?
Jussi |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Italy
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Yes and not
I've seen several TL articles (M.J. King in primis) and I've the simulation software but this is my first TL system and so I have to solve some problems. Another thing: how could I know the fibers diameter used nin the pipe (required by simulator) ? Thanks |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Moscow
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Web Wolf,
I think I must share with you my experience. a couple of years ago I built a pair of TL speakers with SS 8545 and SS 9500 in MTM configuration, a-la Thor, folded tapered TL, 115 cm high. I made some optimizations with King’s mathcad worksheets and was full of good expectations. Now I am building a new pair of bassreflex TMM speakers with these drivers, after I threw away the TL cabinets when I finally gave up trying to make them sound according to my taste. Not so long ago I built a pair of bassreflex TM monitors with the same drivers, and I was amazed by how well they play bass, very articulated and extended. Just before the monitors I built a subwoofer with the Peerless XLS12 & PR, and was going to use it to aid my monitors. Now I don’t use it at all for music because it only makes it worse. I found the sound of my woofers in the TL enclosure boomy, and to get rid of it I had to dampen port output to the point of killing it, and turning my speakers into closed box, which I did not wish. Make a quick simulation of your woofer with MathCad and you will see that your TL creates output not only in the range where SPL of your woofer starts to incline, like a normal bassreflex cabinet, but equally adds up to at least 100-120 Hz, and you don’t need it with such woofer. All this applies, of cause, to the design I used and reasonable size of cabinets. Best regards, Misha |
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#8 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Nov 2003
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web wolf,
i suggest you to keep more experience on loudspesler design before use ss drivers,they want expert designer. i've projected many good sounding loudpeakers with ss drivers but before i have done a lot experience on cheaper drivers if you want measured datas to import in your simulation software,send me an email. i hope to help you with them. b.r. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bloubergstrand
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TL's are probably the alignment with the most "black magic" I've ever seen. Often no matter how much you try and if all the math seems in order, the result just sounds unacceptable.
My advice would be to buy a woofer that would work well in TL as well as BR, and build a test enclosure just to see how well it works. As a side note, the best performance I ever got from a TL was with the SS 18W/8543 woofer. In a BR configuration it sounded good, in sealed it had no bass at all (as would be expected with that woofer), but with a TL... my oh my, what a difference and with a low-end extension I never thought was possible with that woofer's T/S specs. Not too well suited to HT though, and I'm still kicking myself for ditching those large 2-ways in favour of a new BR design with more drivers and higher efficiency. The SS 8542 yields very much the same performance with the difference of a paper cone. A SEAS W17EX001 (the glass-fibre Excel model) on the other hand sounded horrible in a TL, and did wonders in a BR. The dual W18E001 in the Thor didn't impress me at all, with woolly bass that didn't appear to go low. In fact I don't think I've ever heard an Excel driver sound good in a TL, at least not as good as they can sound in a proper designed BR. SS 18W/8545 can sound good in TL but needs some experimentation to get right, and doesn't necessarily sound better than in BR. Some of the newer Revelators apparently deliver good results in a TL but I've never heard any personally. I once saw a sub called the Perfectionest Audio Subwoofer that used two the KEF B139's in a dual-line TL that was nothing short of amazing. It was one of the best subs I ever heard with the exception of possibly the REL Studio, and since the B139's aren't too expensive, well worth looking into. Freq cutoff was 10Hz @ -8dB. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Moscow
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PWatts
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