Hi Mike, and welcome to the madhouse!!
I believe that the regular 609's simply say '6o9' on the bottom of the plastic panel which the connections are mounted on. The MK11 should have something like 6o9ii in the same place.
As far as I'm aware all Mk1's have a pretend marble top and the MK11's have a plain and shiny black.
The surefire way to know is to check the yellow label on the speaker drivers themselves. (they look like pricing labels on the magnets). This will show which drivers you have.
Model: 609
Year: 1991-3
Dual Concentric: 2033
Dual Concentric Size: 8"
High Frequency: 1662/2033
Model: 609 II
Year: 1993-4
Dual Concentric: 2040
Dual Concentric Size: 8"
High Frequency: 1669/2040
Damaged tweeter:
Have you checked the crossover? Hopefully this is the problem. Have you checked the DC resistance of the tweeter? Should be about 4 or 5 Ohms on a multimeter.
I have removed a tweeter from some of these before just out of curiosity and found that myself looking at a naked voice coil and some sticky ferrofluid!!! I think that it can be done but you need to be very careful. The horn,diaphragm/voice coil, and magnet seem to seperate when unbolted.
Replacements are available from a U.K. firm but the name escapes me right now. I'll get back to you on that one or someone else here will know.
Sixes manual:
I have the manual and will be able to send it as soon as your moderation has ended and you can email me. To be honest, it's not exactly essential reading..... but in the meantime here's a link to the brochures for the MK1 and MK11 Sixes. These copies are a bit shabby and I could provide better versions later if you so wish.
http://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy57.htm
Cheers,
Martin.
I believe that the regular 609's simply say '6o9' on the bottom of the plastic panel which the connections are mounted on. The MK11 should have something like 6o9ii in the same place.
As far as I'm aware all Mk1's have a pretend marble top and the MK11's have a plain and shiny black.
The surefire way to know is to check the yellow label on the speaker drivers themselves. (they look like pricing labels on the magnets). This will show which drivers you have.
Model: 609
Year: 1991-3
Dual Concentric: 2033
Dual Concentric Size: 8"
High Frequency: 1662/2033
Model: 609 II
Year: 1993-4
Dual Concentric: 2040
Dual Concentric Size: 8"
High Frequency: 1669/2040
Damaged tweeter:
Have you checked the crossover? Hopefully this is the problem. Have you checked the DC resistance of the tweeter? Should be about 4 or 5 Ohms on a multimeter.
I have removed a tweeter from some of these before just out of curiosity and found that myself looking at a naked voice coil and some sticky ferrofluid!!! I think that it can be done but you need to be very careful. The horn,diaphragm/voice coil, and magnet seem to seperate when unbolted.
Replacements are available from a U.K. firm but the name escapes me right now. I'll get back to you on that one or someone else here will know.
Sixes manual:
I have the manual and will be able to send it as soon as your moderation has ended and you can email me. To be honest, it's not exactly essential reading..... but in the meantime here's a link to the brochures for the MK1 and MK11 Sixes. These copies are a bit shabby and I could provide better versions later if you so wish.
http://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy57.htm
Cheers,
Martin.
Replacement Drivers
Finally remembered!! Luckilly, I've never had to use them myself but they are the main agent for Tannoy and use the original parts: http://www.lockwoodaudio.co.uk/page3.htm
Happy new year,
Martin.
Finally remembered!! Luckilly, I've never had to use them myself but they are the main agent for Tannoy and use the original parts: http://www.lockwoodaudio.co.uk/page3.htm
Happy new year,
Martin.
Hi Mike.
I think you're better off with the Mk1's although they have a slightly brighter sound.
The MK11's tried to address this problem but I never liked the result since some of the magic had been lost somehow, as if there were some frequencies missing.
You'd know what I mean if you heard them together. But, this is just my opinion.
Your crossover should be very similar to my 611 (Mk1) except obviously for the extra driver. The dual concentric in the 611's still reproduces the bass just as yours do. The 611's have an extra driver that works only below ~250Hz.
I have tried Sonicaps and Clarity caps. The latest modification has been a change from a 3.2uF cap on the tweeter to a 3uF. It doesn't change much but it is perhaps in the right direction by crossing over to the tweeter at a very slightly higher frequency without leaving a gap in the speakers response. Your mileage my vary.
Ultimately I wanted to get rid of that Tannoy "honk" or "shout" that comes from the horn. (The sibilance problem with S an T sounds.) I am now resigned to the fact that a notch filter is needed for the crossover but at what frequency? I lack the experience to decide. I'm going to have to try this soon I think.
I will eventually, when funds allow, go for an active setup possibly with a Behringer DCX for a truly flexible solution. But for now I'm just trying to make do with what I have.
Anyway, sorry for rambling! Here's a schematic I made of the 611 Crossover as compensation. It may be of some use. Does yours use similar values?
Whats Gan On:
How are you getting on with the 615's now the honeymoon period is over? Still happy? I'd love to hear your opinions.
I think you're better off with the Mk1's although they have a slightly brighter sound.
The MK11's tried to address this problem but I never liked the result since some of the magic had been lost somehow, as if there were some frequencies missing.
You'd know what I mean if you heard them together. But, this is just my opinion.
Your crossover should be very similar to my 611 (Mk1) except obviously for the extra driver. The dual concentric in the 611's still reproduces the bass just as yours do. The 611's have an extra driver that works only below ~250Hz.
I have tried Sonicaps and Clarity caps. The latest modification has been a change from a 3.2uF cap on the tweeter to a 3uF. It doesn't change much but it is perhaps in the right direction by crossing over to the tweeter at a very slightly higher frequency without leaving a gap in the speakers response. Your mileage my vary.
Ultimately I wanted to get rid of that Tannoy "honk" or "shout" that comes from the horn. (The sibilance problem with S an T sounds.) I am now resigned to the fact that a notch filter is needed for the crossover but at what frequency? I lack the experience to decide. I'm going to have to try this soon I think.
I will eventually, when funds allow, go for an active setup possibly with a Behringer DCX for a truly flexible solution. But for now I'm just trying to make do with what I have.
Anyway, sorry for rambling! Here's a schematic I made of the 611 Crossover as compensation. It may be of some use. Does yours use similar values?
Whats Gan On:
How are you getting on with the 615's now the honeymoon period is over? Still happy? I'd love to hear your opinions.
Attachments
Hi Martin,
Thanks for your schematics and thoughts on the crossover. Very good gen (again).
It's good to know that the Mk1's might be the better choice at the end of the day.
My 6o9s are at my sister's place in NZ (where I am now visiting for a few weeks). The visit here is flying by, so I'm not sure when (or even if) I'll get to take a close look at the crossover on this trip (as much as I'd like to). If I do I'll email you with my findings.
I have no idea what to suggest for a notch filter frequency. I'm wondering if it might be possible for you to somehow build and try a rough variable notch filter initially to 'experiment' and give you a better idea, before building a fixed notch filter of more 'sonic quality'.
Cheers for now.
Take it easy (as they say down under).
Mike
Thanks for your schematics and thoughts on the crossover. Very good gen (again).
It's good to know that the Mk1's might be the better choice at the end of the day.
My 6o9s are at my sister's place in NZ (where I am now visiting for a few weeks). The visit here is flying by, so I'm not sure when (or even if) I'll get to take a close look at the crossover on this trip (as much as I'd like to). If I do I'll email you with my findings.
I have no idea what to suggest for a notch filter frequency. I'm wondering if it might be possible for you to somehow build and try a rough variable notch filter initially to 'experiment' and give you a better idea, before building a fixed notch filter of more 'sonic quality'.
Cheers for now.
Take it easy (as they say down under).
Mike
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