Pre-made crossovers?

Bigfootpete · 9th November 2006, 07:34 PM

I've had a good search but only managed to find pre-printed circuitboards for good crossovers.

I have made up my mind to use a Butterworth 18db/octave filter
but my soldering skills (not to mention my electronics knowledge) sucks.

Does anyone know if you can buy pre-made crossovers using the above filter?

I did read threads on here where people don't recommend pre-made crossovers - but I was thinking more of 'non-commercial'
circuit-board with resistors and capacitors all done for you...sort of thing.

Cheers,
P

If there is nothing out there then I will give it a go myself...

joe carrow · 9th November 2006, 08:37 PM

There's a big difference between pre-made active and passive crossovers. Active crossovers don't care about the speaker impedance, or the presence of other crossovers. They don't react to speaker impedance, and they combine with other active crossovers very predictably.

Did you check out Marchand electronics? Alternatively, there are many active crossovers available for pro audio, made by Behringer, Rane, and others.

Another reason why people are against using pre-made crossovers is baffle step and diffraction effects. These are dependent on the geometry of the final speaker, including driver location and baffle size/shape. In a custom crossover of high quality, these things are accounted for. Unless this is just a sub crossover, your active crossover will need to handle this as well.

Willitwork · 10th November 2006, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bigfootpete
I've had a good search but only managed to find pre-printed circuitboards for good crossovers.

I have made up my mind to use a Butterworth 18db/octave filter
but my soldering skills (not to mention my electronics knowledge) sucks.

Does anyone know if you can buy pre-made crossovers using the above filter?

I did read threads on here where people don't recommend pre-made crossovers - but I was thinking more of 'non-commercial'
circuit-board with resistors and capacitors all done for you...sort of thing.

Cheers,
P

If there is nothing out there then I will give it a go myself...

Off-the-shelf pre-made passive crossovers are a definite no-go, passive circuits need to be tailored for the environment they will operate in. You can however have a DIY/OEM supplier design and build a crossover for your speakers. I don't know who offers that service in the UK but here in North America Solen is reknown for this kind of work. Pricey though, it will cost you at least three times as much as building it yourself, expertise doesn't come cheap.

dublin78 · 10th November 2006, 01:39 AM

Hi Pete
Falcon Acoustics, or Wilmslow Audio will probably make up a custom crossover to order for you if you don't get on with a soldering iron.
Good luck
Mike

Bigfootpete · 10th November 2006, 08:32 AM

Excellent! Thanks for the replys.

I will need to tailer the crossover for the baffle step and certainly for diffraction...

Cheers,
P

sreten · 10th November 2006, 11:46 AM

Hi, what are the drivers ? cabinet design ?

/sreten.

Bigfootpete · 10th November 2006, 05:21 PM

Well, funny you should ask that.

Being rather ambitious I was going to go for some rather expensive tweeters and equally expensive mid-woofers. But having read a few of the posts on here, I will firstly try my cabinet design (floorstanding with four baffles to direct the sound out a port at the front - zigzag style, kindof a horizontal transmission line), with some cheap drivers (yet to be determined)...

If that sounds sweet, then I will replace the drivers with better ones...

But any recommendations are welcome...

I'll start off with a passive crossover first, then look into active crossovers, I just don't know enough about how the powering of active x-overs fits in yet...

Bigfootpete · 10th November 2006, 06:57 PM

And here's a pic of the design - although I will change this slightly when I build it, opinions welcomed...

richie00boy · 10th November 2006, 07:14 PM

To be honest as a newbie I think you will find an active crossover easier, as it eliminates the complex driver impedance from the design. If you have enough power amps at your disposal then it's rude not to go active.

Dave · 10th November 2006, 07:27 PM

By far your best bet is to build a speaker kit. These come with premade crossovers designed specifically for the drivers used.

Pre-made passive crossovers simply don't work and tend to give a far too bright sound.

9th November 2006, 07:34 PM	#1
Bigfootpete diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Pre-made crossovers? I've had a good search but only managed to find pre-printed circuitboards for good crossovers. I have made up my mind to use a Butterworth 18db/octave filter but my soldering skills (not to mention my electronics knowledge) sucks. Does anyone know if you can buy pre-made crossovers using the above filter? I did read threads on here where people don't recommend pre-made crossovers - but I was thinking more of 'non-commercial' circuit-board with resistors and capacitors all done for you...sort of thing. Cheers, P If there is nothing out there then I will give it a go myself...

10th November 2006, 07:14 PM	#9
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	To be honest as a newbie I think you will find an active crossover easier, as it eliminates the complex driver impedance from the design. If you have enough power amps at your disposal then it's rude not to go active. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

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9th November 2006, 08:37 PM	#2
joe carrow diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: San Francisco	There's a big difference between pre-made active and passive crossovers. Active crossovers don't care about the speaker impedance, or the presence of other crossovers. They don't react to speaker impedance, and they combine with other active crossovers very predictably. Did you check out Marchand electronics? Alternatively, there are many active crossovers available for pro audio, made by Behringer, Rane, and others. Another reason why people are against using pre-made crossovers is baffle step and diffraction effects. These are dependent on the geometry of the final speaker, including driver location and baffle size/shape. In a custom crossover of high quality, these things are accounted for. Unless this is just a sub crossover, your active crossover will need to handle this as well.

10th November 2006, 01:39 AM	#4
dublin78 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Cheshire	Hi Pete Falcon Acoustics, or Wilmslow Audio will probably make up a custom crossover to order for you if you don't get on with a soldering iron. Good luck Mike

10th November 2006, 08:32 AM	#5
Bigfootpete diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Excellent! Thanks for the replys. I will need to tailer the crossover for the baffle step and certainly for diffraction... Cheers, P

10th November 2006, 11:46 AM	#6
sreten diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brighton UK	Hi, what are the drivers ? cabinet design ? /sreten.

10th November 2006, 05:21 PM	#7
Bigfootpete diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Well, funny you should ask that. Being rather ambitious I was going to go for some rather expensive tweeters and equally expensive mid-woofers. But having read a few of the posts on here, I will firstly try my cabinet design (floorstanding with four baffles to direct the sound out a port at the front - zigzag style, kindof a horizontal transmission line), with some cheap drivers (yet to be determined)... If that sounds sweet, then I will replace the drivers with better ones... But any recommendations are welcome... I'll start off with a passive crossover first, then look into active crossovers, I just don't know enough about how the powering of active x-overs fits in yet...

10th November 2006, 07:27 PM	#10
Dave diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: New Zealand	By far your best bet is to build a speaker kit. These come with premade crossovers designed specifically for the drivers used. Pre-made passive crossovers simply don't work and tend to give a far too bright sound.

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