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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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Hi all,
I'm looking for some feedback/comments on a possible new design, basically anything bad that I may have missed. I've thought of BSC, and resonances at the moment. This will be my first design, so be gentle Construction will be with 1" or thicker MDF sandwiched and glued together. I work in a shop with a CNC router AND being the only CAD/CAM guy there gives me some priviledges. EDIT: Dimension are about 36" tall, 6" wide at the widest, 24" deep. Volume is approx 62ltrs. I'd like to use 6.5" for woofers. And for some reason I don't think its unique design, I'm sure I've something similar somewhere. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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so more views...
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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front
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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rear
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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Looks like a cool idea - a bipole? You've got either 2 woofs facing opposite directions or a rear-facing port. If it's a bipole you'll just need to keep it away from walls to get the proper effect - you need a relatively large listening room.
The design is essentially almost baffleless, so you may want to be mindful of diffraction issues, but I'm no expert there. Do you have drivers in mind? You might get some more input once you do, as drivers, crossovers and cabinets must all be part of the design "equation." You state the volume to be approximately 62 liter, but that should be calculated based on the woofer you are going to use and how you want to tune the enclosure - deciding on a volume beforehand is really putting the cart before the horse. From pure aesthetics though, it's a beautiful design.
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Soft Dome |
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#6 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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Quote:
Its setup as a bipole right now, but that can always change. Especially if my future listening room is too small. ( will be buying a house in the very near future). Maybe a BSC circuit will be a better solution..? Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario
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looks very nice, aesthetically speaking. The bipole idea is great, assuming you can have it 3 feet out into the room. I'd estimate that puts the baffle 5 feet or so from the rear wall?
What I would worry about is how you are going to do the crossover. That is the most important part of the speaker, and the most difficult to develop from scratch, but most noobs treat it as an afterthough, secondary to enclosure design and poring over the minutae of driver specs and differences (not saying you are, just most, self included when I started out). Since you have a non-standard baffle, you won't be able to find any other design that matches it, so you will definately be developing your own XO. Hopefully you have access to measurement and modelling gear, or better yet, to someone who has both and a wealth of experience using them Not trying to rain on your parade at all, just want to be realistic about what you're getting into, you may already be aware of all this but it doesn't hurt to check |
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#8 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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Quote:
How is that determined? Quote:
So, choose my drivers, finalize enclosure, then suffer through crossover design? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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"So, choose my drivers, finalize enclosure, then suffer through crossover design?"
Well yes, but there other baffleless designs out there; for example this new one at PartsExpress: http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...lar/index.html The designer doesn't go into any detail regarding baffleless problems, or if he designed the crossover in any way to deal with it, but you can probably contact him at PE and pick his brain a little. You might even consider adapting the design to your enclosure - this will save you a ton of work and headaches, and maybe some money too. The woofers are inexpensive and some of the best available at their price point, and you can do a single or dual woofer design. A similar design is here: http://www.zaphaudio.com/BAMTM.html It uses a different tweeter but one considered to be one of the best at any price. Worth considering.
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Soft Dome |
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#10 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario
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Quote:
Quote:
The center-center distance from tweeter - midbass will also have an effect on your XO frequency, slopes, and the size of your drivers. Assuming you keep the drivers as close to each other as possible, you will probably not be able to get into anything larger than an 8" midbass, generally 6-7" is more common. If you go with a larger midbass, you will need a very robust (read: can crossover low) tweeter and/or steep slopes in the crossover. Personally, I think the safest bet for you, if you do your own crossovers, is to go with a 6-7" driver that is easy to work with (read: not a metal cone which will need to be crossed low or have notch filters on the top end), something like Peerless Nomex/Paper, Seas Paper, Vifa/Scanspeak Paper, Adire Extremis, etc. This leaves you open to a lot of tweeters, I would suggest something that is both a great performer and very robust like the Seas 27tdfc or tbfc (depending on whether you like metal or silk domes better). IMHO, this would be a hard design to screw up, give a pretty high margin for error (by that I mean, you could find a lot of ways to do this 'right') and still sound very good indeed. |
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| Amp design - sim problems | Dzsoni | Solid State | 2 | 26th June 2007 12:01 AM |
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