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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Hello everyone, I am on my way to building the "Magna Cum Laude" by Darren K from the parts express project showcase.
http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...gna/index.html My question is simple, the design calls for an enclosure around the midrange that is a simple 7x7" hollow square tube that goes front the front to the back of the enclosure. I can build this just fine, but if the midrange is completly closed off, how can i run the speaker wre to the crossover?? Also this is what he says about the bracing. "Due to the 3/4" roundover I planned on using along the front edges, I also added some secondary 3/4" cleats to the front edges of the sides, top, and bottom. This provides extra joint strength and bracing of the front baffle. I cut some of my scrap material down to create cross bracing between the front, rear, and sides. " Now iv read the 100 times but i cant quite figure what he means by that. If anyone could explain it in more simple terms that would help my alot. I was thinking of just putting a piece of plywood perpendicular to the front baffle, and maybe a few quarter dowls in the corners. Would that be adequit? The whole speakers are cut and all i have to do is put it together now so im super excited. Thanks a million -Mike |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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He is talking about putting strips of 3/4 inch wide by the 3/4 thick wood along the edges on the inside where the side walls and top/bottom meets the baffle. This will give more glue surface that he feels is required given that he plans on removing some of the wood where the baffle meets the side walls on the exterior of the cabinet with the roundover.
I cannot answer the plywood question however. I hope someone else helps you with that one. Good luck, Mike |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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To run the wire to the midrange, just drill a small hole big enough to fit the wire through. Feed some wire through, leaving enough slack that you can attach it to the speaker before installing, then seal the hole with the speaker wire through it with some caulk or putty. Caulk works better because it can give a little if you yank on the wire.
Using the plywood (or molding) as you describe it is exactly what he's talking about. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NY
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to run the wire.. you could either put a speaker cup in there.. or just run the wire through a small hole.
Then you caulk it up.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Thanks for all the help guys. After reading throught the ENTIRE punk rocker speaker fiasco it seems this is the friendliest board in the world.
Now one other thing, can anyone reccomend a specific way i should brace this monster? I have read extesivly on this board about bracing and i think i know less now then when i started Thanks again -Mike |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: nsw
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How about making more top and bottom panels than you need (maybe half a dozen or so, if it's practical), cutting four squares in them so they look like a window frame, and attaching them at several places down the cabinet by glueing a strip of 1x1 around the cabinet to attach them to.
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