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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Presently i'm really trying to figure up a xover design for speakers i currently own. There all raw drivers and i'd really like to use them in a 3way design. The Midbass i have is the Dayton RS225 and i also have a pair of Seas CA18's that can be used, Midrange either the Dayton RS52 or CSS WR125, preforably the wr125 for aesthetic preferences to blend well with the RS225, but the RS52 is definently a consideration because of the very low distortion midrange and wide offaxis response for those not sitting in the sweet spot. As far as tweeters/planars that i have, i have a nonbacked Neo3 which i've heard raves about, VERY low distortion, and thought about using it possibly OB in the tower, I also have a pair of LPG 26nafm's, which are metal domes that don't have the typical metal feel or sound to them.
Anyway i'm wondering if anyone has any proposed xover designs for these drivers, or could help steer me on my way to building the 3way i've been trying to for the longest time. My only problem thus far is lack of knowledge or software to appropriatyl design xovers, Level matching through passives is a must because of the low SPL of the WR125. I currently don't have enough of a budget to afford an active route, as amlification as well as a behringer dcx2496 is quite over my budget. Any help would be very appreciated. Aim/Yahoo messengers is demon2091tb |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cleveland
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I have some for the 225 and 52. I sent the info to your email acct.
-Ward |
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#4 | |||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I have the NEO3, a Seas Mid and 2 RS270 on an open baffle with a DCX2496 and 2 Teac A700 3 channel "monoblocks" ($100 Ea) Quote:
Have you considered a 2 way with the Behringer analog crossover between your woofer and midrange? They are much more affordable than the dcx2496. That would allow the Woofer to not be padded, which would really affect its Qts. A two way passive should be do-able for the NEO3 and the WR125. Quote:
A single 8" driver is going to run out of Xmax at low frequencies, especially on small baffles, and in large rooms. If you want to experiment, I would use a flat baffle at least 18" wide by 48' high and mount the woofer as close to the floor as possible. This arrangement may not require much base boost above 70 Hz or so. Good luck on your project. Doug |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Thanks for the ideas doug, not too sure on the T amp though, would rather amp everything and not waist money buying now then upgrading later.
First off the Neo3 is the non PDR version, it is open backed. I really want to get a DCX2496, but adding the amplification is the worrying part for me. I'd love to go this route, but only if i can find VERY cheap but quality amplification, this would be ideal i'd think. 100each for 3amps is just my ballpark, btw wondering how you set them up being dcx to 3 "monoblocks"? I'm not really looking for any low end below driver FS, i have plenty of substage (probobly more than i need on any day), but i'd like to be able to drop to single digits in a decent sized room at moderate volumes, so 2 tempests ~7cf 16hz sounds good. I'm looking for very high fidelity, for music high resolution reference type setup, and for movies a very nice sound that is tolerable and without peaks, with an enourmous low end (typical for movies i guess). I thought about OB to minimize room interaction but i did worry about the lack of cone area for OB or even H frame midbasses, OB midrange/tweet and TL or ported RS225 may be a better option for the lack of cone area on the midbasses. Reference SQ is my goal though with aesthetics in mind, for reference on later projects as well as tweaking my active 4way in my car, I love active (was my first route to consider for home, but much more equipment is needed, and gets clostly easily, amplification costs that is for Home/PA amps, as well as PA amps and there infamous noisy fans). I guess some amp suggestions for 100-200w would be a good starting point for active with the dcx2496, though XLR connections are a must. Again SQ with aesthetics to boot for primarily music/tv, and occasional movies. |
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#6 | |||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I did remove the back cups on mine, as well. Quote:
I am sure they aren’t perfect, but I have not identified any issues with them in this setup. I refer to them as mono-blocks because each amplifier, having 3 channels, can drive one 3 way actively crossed over speaker. The Teac A700 is 3 channels, 30 watts per channel, $100 to my door, and IMHO, a great value. The DCX and both amps were about $450. Quote:
I am going to publish my design and results after I get the new baffles done. My current baffles are sub-optimal, but are fun to listen to. Again, good luck with whatever you decide. Doug |
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