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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Spfld, OR
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I've heard of people using wood glue, but that seems to be alot more of a hassle than it needs to be. Does anybody have any tips? I try to do it with watered-down wood filler, which seems to work ok, but I don't know if that's the difinitive way to do it or not.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Do you mean sealing the cut edge of the MDF where it's exposed to the 'outside world'? Or sealing the edges where they join to other pieces of MDF?For the first, I veneer, using thick veneer and glue so there's nothing exposed. For the second, I don't have any gaps to seal.
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Jont. "It is impossible to build a fool proof system; because fools are so ingenious." |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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you need a filler which will shrink and expand at the same rate as the MDF -- apply a good sanding sealer, dry per instructions, wet sand, apply another coat, then finish. Zinser works reasonable well.
You can also coat the edges with bondo diluted in a polar organic solvent. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Saint Louis, MO
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I have not tried this before, but the magazine - The Family Handyman - had an article about using (I beleive watered down) drywall compound to do this...
Good luck, Mark |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Drywall joint compound or spackling paste is my filler of choice when it's going to be painted or veneered. For more durability, two part epoxy. In some cases, depending on the finish you want to achieve, a product like gesso is applied and then sanded smooth to fill and seal in the MDF: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gesso It's used both as sealer and a primer. In other cases a thinned wash coat or two of Shellac or similar. Glue sizing (equal parts white glue and water) can also be used for toners, stains, shading stains, glazes, sealers. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: CO
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The process is called "glue sizing." Dilute yellow PVA wood glue with tap water (or spike tap water with yellow glue) until it is the consistancy of chicken noodle soup without the chicken and noodles. Brush the mixutre on and let dry. It will seal the very porous edge of MDF so that the edge will take paint the same way the face will take paint.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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I'll go with Jack, Sanding sealer is the stuff.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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If you mean an exposed edge, I'm in the veneer camp. Iron on, precut to width type is handy.
For a joint; the new polyurethane glues, of which Gorilla is best known, expand as they cure, ensuring an airtight seam. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
__________________
Jont. "It is impossible to build a fool proof system; because fools are so ingenious." |
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