PAINTING MDF SPEAKER CABINETS. With MDF painted cabinets, several posts over the years have mentioned that the paint eventually cracks at the joints due to expansion and contraction of MDF. Most of these diy builders have apparently used recommended procedures using Bondo, glue compounds or some sort of filler material to seal the cut or routed joints prior to prime and paint.
Some have suggested that there is no good solution for this problem if MDF is used and to use plywood as the exterior cover material instead of MDF. None of the posts I read gave a final solution to this problem.
QUESTIONS. Is this true the painted MDF cabinets will eventually develope paint cracks at seams and joints?
Does anyone know how to prevent eventual cracking in painted MDF enclosures?
Some have suggested that there is no good solution for this problem if MDF is used and to use plywood as the exterior cover material instead of MDF. None of the posts I read gave a final solution to this problem.
QUESTIONS. Is this true the painted MDF cabinets will eventually develope paint cracks at seams and joints?
Does anyone know how to prevent eventual cracking in painted MDF enclosures?
I believe the process is using Bonda or some other sort of wood hardener after you have finished with all the wood work. It needs to be done on the inside and out to prevent mosture from getting into the MDF. Bonda actually soaks in taking place of musture and using mosture to harden. There are also other compounds that furniture painters know about but I just don't know the name of the stuff.
I thought Bonda was filler? In any case, you could try some wood hardener as suggested and check out this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60652&highlight=
Living on the wet coast of Canada, MDF is exposed to nasty extremes in humidity and temprature and I have yet to experience any problems with paint. Though I choose to use fairly flexible stuff, definately no automotive emamels.
I have found the reaction to the binder in MDF to be more problematic. With strict environmental laws making most decent sealers unobtanium here, I seal off the boxes with a mixture of wood glue/water. Let it dry for several days, then paint.
I have found the reaction to the binder in MDF to be more problematic. With strict environmental laws making most decent sealers unobtanium here, I seal off the boxes with a mixture of wood glue/water. Let it dry for several days, then paint.
I use automotive primers and automotive paints and stay with a system, ie DuPont paints. Automotive paints are made to with stand extreme temperature changes (like the hood) and flex (like the bumpers).
I would suspect that cracks at the seams are due to the two pieces being allowed to separate. Standard old wood glue will shift with temperatures, so I always use screws (screwed and glued as I say) to hold joints together and bracing to keep the walls good and tight.
I would suspect that cracks at the seams are due to the two pieces being allowed to separate. Standard old wood glue will shift with temperatures, so I always use screws (screwed and glued as I say) to hold joints together and bracing to keep the walls good and tight.
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